the outozone brand but this was after i looked every where looked at the reviews and i sprung for the more expensive version

 

well i am back and with pictures so there are pictures of pretty much everything
but what i want to know is the axle sizes and what i am missing vacuum wise and other systems











































































































































.

 

Wow, lots of pictures! Thanks, because we usually like lots of pictures.
Since it’s an F 100/150 it would usually have a Dana 44 front end and either a Ford 9 inch or a Dana 44 rear end. Depending upon the year and set up.
In your case, you have a Dana 44 high pinion model in front, and a Ford 9 inch rear end.
The axle shafts in the rear are probably the larger 31 spline versions, and either large sealed ball bearings or the tapered roller bearings.
I don’t know if by your year they had all gone to the tapered rollers, or if any still have the sealed ball bearings.

Wait for experts to chime in, but it looks like your transfer case is an NP203 full-time unit.
This should not have any effect on the engine running, as the others have said, but it would definitely effect the vehicle forward motion if someone had installed locking hubs without a part-time conversion kit, or had installed the conversion kit, wrong, or the transfer case has failed.
Your shift **** should say high, high lock, low, low lock. Or some variation on that theme.
Is that correct?

 

X2 dana 44 front axle and 9" rear axle. I also see a red and blue ratchet strap holding the aux tank in place and NO rear axle vent tube on the stud. You need to ork on getting that secured and put a line on the vent stud. Along with those oil leaks. I would not zip tie off the spark plug wires to the master cylinder brake lines or to each other. See this cool trick below.

NP-203 on left and NP-205 on right.

Locate the silver/blue tag on the front of the xfer case to 100 % ID it. I am sure it is under a mountain of grease and oil.

 

I bet your shifter is hitting a wire and making it short out or someone like that.. bit on my 97 I wired in new LED on the rear ita 7.3l diesel 16ft flat bed. Wired in the lights and my tranny started going nuts I unwired LEDs tranny was fine. Turns out the power was being sent back up he line and telling my torque converter to kick in at 50mph this would happen. Sounds so dum I know it has nothing to do with your problem my point is don't rule anything out by someone saying it's not linked or whatever check it then rule out. I figured out my issue was LED lights screwing with my tranny by searching the forums found one person has samthing happen and was NEW LEDS GOOD LUCK

 

This looks kinda funky. Check out what is going on here. It could be the cause of your stalling/short issue.

 

Wow yeah some work needs to be done here weather it's the issue or not but my guess it's the cause. Also is a ratchet strap holding the fuel tank in place on left side of photo

 

Dam dude nice job you didn't mess around with photos. Anytime I take my truck apart I take photos along the way Incase I forget how to put it back together have not needed it yet but one day I'm aure

 

Yes this needs looking into as a cause along with what others have said on fixes.

I do see dual tanks.
You said you cleaned out the side plastic tank are you sure that is the tank you are running on and not that metal (rusty inside) tank?
You said it run pretty good even up to 50 MPH but when back home it started running poorly and stopped.
If either than has just floating around in it just sitting and running would be ok but get it out on the road and moving mixing all the crud with the gas and it can clog filters fast.

Also really fine rust dose make it thru gas filters and fills the floor of the carb bowl.
It can then clog accel pump ports, jets & power valves and make it run like crap and not at all.
I think I would pull the top on that carb and see if there is any crud in the bowl and clean as needed.
If you do find crud till you can replace the tanks run it off a gas can on the inner fender well and a long hose to the pump.
I moved my 81 F100 around like this when cab off frame rebuilding as I did not want gas in the tank(s) going bad till on the road.
They were empty and clean inside.
Dave ----

 

I see a magnetic signal pickup sensor hanging down on a bracket next to the driveshaft, but there are no magnets on the driveshaft. What looks like a blue and a light grey wire were cut too, remnants of a cruise control like mine, but no sign of the vacuum operated cruise control solenoid or vacuum dump that I see. The cruise control was aftermarket, looks like someone removed all but the sensor there. Look under the dash for a black or blue plastic box with wires plugged in, maybe cut wires now?

 

Worry about the gas tank. Might be best to eliminate and just use the rear. Save the pieces. 19 gallon rear tank probably take you farther than you need to go. X2 on wire ties. The truck came with dividers and there is a specific way to route them but wouldn't be a problem at idle speed. Might want to think about replacing the exhaust with something that routes it out the rear side behind the truck. Again not an idle problem. Have you checked the egr for operation? Vacuum at idle will kill the engine. Unless the adapter plate is cast iron they can burn out also. Hard to diagnose without hands on.

 

I've got a 20 gallon polyurethane tank I'll ship to you replace that steel tank

 

yes there is a ratchet straps holding the tank the tank shroud witch used to hold it rusted completely out i am working on custom fabricating tank straps since no one makes the straps for the 4wd plastic tank. and yes it is factory i checked

 

so it is the plastic tank because the fuel sender unit on the other tank is cut (see attached picture) and i get a fuel level on my dash plus whenever i run low on gas and refill the saddle tank i am good on fuel. the only thing that could get rust to the carb would be the lines. and the sender is new when i dropped the tank to clean it

 

The fwd plastic tank on a 4wd is NOT get held up with straps. Only 2wd fwd steel tank uses straps. The 4wd plastic tank uses a skid plate/shield that is notorious for rusting out due to a very bad drainage design.