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Ok, that's a pretty key piece of information when you're saying it needs the choke to run (like someone else said that means your mix is lean) and the idle mixture screws have no effect. It sounds like a huge vacuum leak, could be internal to the carburetor. Who rebuilt it?
When was it last tuned up? If unknown, I would start with a basic tune up. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter etc... and go from there. I bet the link to 4WD is merely coincidental. Shift it into 4WD and see if it starts. The shift linkage could be causing something to short. I doubt it, but you never know.
Since this truck is new to OP, he should check that gear ratios front and rear are the same. It's possible they are different and that is binding up the drivetrain, causing a poor running truck to die.
Ok, that's a pretty key piece of information when you're saying it needs the choke to run (like someone else said that means your mix is lean) and the idle mixture screws have no effect. It sounds like a huge vacuum leak, could be internal to the carburetor. Who rebuilt it?
i rebuilt it. it was my first time but i did have it running quite good after a carb tune then took it on a drive and now thinking back to it right when i went to park it it started to run rough again. this was after going up to about 50 miles per hour to see how she performed she was doing good till i went to park it. then the next time i started her up after 3 or four week after saving money to repair the cooling system she ran okay then i put her in 4wd because i was stuck in snow. a snow storm happened a few day earlier. and it shifted fine into 4wd low then i got out but when i was pulling into the shop she just died. put it into 2wd ****ed to go she died and was running like crap ever since. this was when i joined the forum by the way. but now i have money to put into her again and want to repair her more and get her running smoothly.
I have not gone thru all the post was this truck sitting for a bit?
If so it could be bad gas left in the tank(s) and or rust that has not made it to that rebuilt carb.
And dont tell me "it has a gas filter" as fine rust dose make it past it into the carb.
Dave ----
also when i say overhaul i mean i cleaned the ventturi the jets made sure all passages where free by puting pressurized air into it. replaced all the diaphragms, seals and the needle and seat and flout though when i was putting on the carb back on the truck it has this bottom vacuum piece a seal/spacer. the new seal and spacer did not fit so i kept the old one. because it was still in good shape
I have not gone thru all the post was this truck sitting for a bit?
If so it could be bad gas left in the tank(s) and or rust that has not made it to that rebuilt carb.
And dont tell me "it has a gas filter" as fine rust dose make it past it into the carb.
Dave ----
i cleaned out the plastic saddle tank before running on the tank replaced the fuel pump rubber gas line and fuel sender unit. and the gas would only be about a month old even so i put fresh gas into it before starting her up because she was low.
I have not gone thru all the post was this truck sitting for a bit?
If so it could be bad gas left in the tank(s) and or rust that has not made it to that rebuilt carb.
And dont tell me "it has a gas filter" as fine rust dose make it past it into the carb.
Dave ----
just to be that guy "it has a gas filter" so it should be fine
Try capping off the brake booster vacuum port, just for a test. Have you tried spraying wd around the intake ports or carb base to see if a leak shows?
so my truck runs fine and drives fine when my 4wd is not activated but as soon as it is activated it just cuts out can i get some help diagnosing it. thanks
Try capping off the brake booster vacuum port, just for a test. Have you tried spraying wd around the intake ports or carb base to see if a leak shows?
its actually one thing i know is good because i had to replace the booster due to it causing the engine to considerably run rough when depressed and when i took it off and replaced it it ran so much better.
another thing is the plunger diaphragm literally was going out the other end when i took the master cylinder off
its actually one thing i know is good because i had to replace the booster...
While it might not be the same problem, you can no longer EVER (and yes, I mean EVER!) trust a new part to be good. Failures right out of the box are way too common to go on ignoring it.
Luckily your replacement seemed to fix the old issue. But even new (where did you get it and was it the cheapest by any chance?) it still does not hurt to verify.
So if you have not done so already, maybe remove the vacuum hose from the booster or the intake and plug the hose or port to isolate and eliminate that from the mix.
It can't hurt, and it only takes a few minutes. And that way at least you'll know.
Unless you've already done it, it's worth it.
And I'm serious about not trusting new parts anymore. We used to be able to just assume that a new part was good, and that if the problem did not go away then it must be something else.
Nowadays however, replacing parts just adds more possible trouble points you have to test and re-test to be sure that the new part is not a new part of the problem.