I recently asked about rear axles [[url=https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1705711-another-2-or-3-pinion-differential-question-2.html]Another 2- or 3- pinion differential question! - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)] and I have been doing a lot of scrounging on the internet. I recently "discovered" the Powertrax Lock Right Locker. Works like a Detroit, but fits in the existing carrier without all the work and expense of replacing the carrier, setting lash and preload. I also view the two-year warranty favorably! The part number for my truck is 1840 LR. Lock Right Locker (powertrax.com)

Does anybody out threre have experience with these units? Good, Bad or whatever... I am paarticularly interested in their handling charistics on black ice and snowpacked pavement.

Thanks again!

 

They're junk. Spartan or Aussie may be a better choice. I won't run Powertrax ever again

In slick highway conditions they're all gonna be a little squirrely

 

Thanks for the reply. What were the problems you had? Noise? Durability? Function?

How were you using the vehicle?

How did you attempt to resolve the issue/s?

"Lunchbox lockers seem to be somewhat popular in Japanese trucks. I haven't confirmed how those vehicles were used, but I'm guessing rock crawling in mostly dry conditions, which would exclude my needs entirely.

"Squirrely"? My factory Trac-Lok will lock up on black ice and put you sideways awefully quick, but leave only one wheel spinning in hard packed snow. I'm sure the clutches are pretty much worn out...

 

Subscribing. I was thinking of putting one in the front of my f250. Was the issue durability or how it engages?

Jess

 

In a straight line the power trax will work to lock the dif and drive forward, its weakness is when you lose traction and 1 wheel goes free while the other drives. At that point its a complete and total crap shoot on what will happen, and its going to pop in and out of lock wearing the teeth of the lock ups. You are going to be removing the diff to get this thing in there, as much as you don't want to do it (or cost may be a factor) its best to install a e-locker or a torsen (TruTrac) carrier. The stock ford e-locker is pretty reasonable (under 500 new) and isn't hard to install. Diff shop will bang you like 200 for a re-install with your old gears. Once you see the process once its not that hard to do yourself.

 

Thanks for the details! I guess this goes to the addage, "If it sounds too good to be true..."

This is one of those situations where there is no cheap/easy fix. I've decided to go with the Ford E-Locker. Half the $$ of a Dana or Ox Lox and I do not need or want the axles locked unless turning as True Track or Powertrax do. I frequently drive on snowpacked/icy highways where an open diff is an advantage over a limited slip or 'full spool' set up.

A trusted mechanic told me to photograph the contact pattern on the ring gear and set the new carrier up to match that pattern or it would howl. I am waiting on marking compound, miscelaneous parts and shims, along with new side bearings and races. I've disassembled the rest of the axle and am cleaning the parts and pieces. I'll repaint before assembly, too.

I ordered a Dana E-locker wiring kit off eBay. It cost less than the individual components and is well made, as you would expect from Dana. It is mostly assembled (except for the wiring that passes through the firewall, etc.) It did not come with a connection diagram but a schematic is available on Dana's website, so I'll have to 'wring it out,' which will take less time than assembling the wiring from scratch. I'm going to install it while I wait out the other parts.

I'm thinking of doing a write up if there is enough interest.

 

Yes, do a write up, get pics, provide the part numbers. There is a youtube of a guy doing this with a 11 or 12 e-locker in an earlier housing so he had to put a cable gland in the housing. If you do this also I would recommend welding a shield around it to protect it from flying rocks.

If you can get the inner (toward the gear end) pinion bearing cup knocked out of the housing carefully and nicely you can then make shimming if needed easier by grinding your old one just a little until it slides in and out of the bore nicely. Always best to replace all those bearings while you're in there. Lube things a little while testing for pattern but LUBE them when you're doing the final assembly.

 

I'm also measuring the ring gear lash and torque required to turn the carrier, in addition to matching the contact pattern. Hopefully I will not have to pull the pinion at all, but I will if necessary. There is no play on the pinion shaft, either left/right, up/down or in/out, so I have my hopes up. Shimming the race is always an option, but hopefully I won't have to do that.

There are a couple of ways of getting the wiring out of the pumpkin. I am leaning toward just cutting a small groove in top of the housing flange and sealing it with silicone. Then I can install the IP67 M/F connectors that came in the wiring kit and can pull the carrier if needed with the harness in tact. (Drilling the housing makes it necessary to remove the connector or cut the wiring to pull the carrier.) The harness will be shielded with split-loom and routed to the frame with the VSS cable. Problems with VSS cables are rare, so I am confident this plan will work.

The hubs, bearings and races are in great shape and someone just put new calipers, rotors and pads on this axle. They look like they have very few miles on them, so cleaning, painting and reassembly are all that will be necessary on those parts.

This project may take a while, but I have the luxury of completing this axle before I swap it into the truck so I have the use of my truck until I do that and no pressure to hurry this job along.