I've had my Ranger since July 27, 2002 and now have 369K miles on it. Over a year ago the ABS light came on and my mechanic said it coded that the ABS module and the left front sensor were out. I had noticed a couple of times it took an unusually long time for the transmission to shift out of 1st but it only happened about twice. I semi retired the truck and it just sat for a while. The next time I drove it the tranny wouldn't shift and the speedo didn't move.
I picked up a used ABS module on ebay and had our mechanic put it in. He called me and said the replacement one was worse than what I had so I figured it was bad. The seller refunded me. I picked up another one and had the mechanic put it in yesterday. Same problem. He said everything communicates until it gets to the module.
Reading some of these threads on ABS problems it's obvious to me all of this is way over my head. I don't typically work on my truck except for very simple things.
About 12 years ago the ABS light came on and I fixed it by replacing the rear sensor, the one on top of the differential. I tried that at the beginning of this problem and it didn't help. Could the new one I got from NAPA have been bad?
I realize I have no info for you guys as far as codes and such but is it possible these modules I got are just bad also? They're both used of course. Finding a new after market one is basically impossible for 4WD.

 

Can you get & post All of the code Numbers your Tech pulled??? If not & you feel comfortable enough to do it yourself, or have a family member or neighbor do it, consider coming by the inexpensive ELM scan-tool that plugs into the under dash drivers side of the steering column & running FORSCan freeware on the viewing device of choice as discussed here, Low Cost ELM Scantool - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com), as this inexpensive but Powerful combo can access & query All of the vehicle computer / controllers including the ABS, Tranny, Body & GEM for trouble code clues, including Ford enhanced codes, that can help focus a trouble-shoot. If moldy oldy me can learn how to do it, you likely can too!!!

If the speed-o isn't working, the wiring, electrical pin / socket contacts to the rear ABS speed sensor & the speed sensor itself belong on the suspect list, as the cruise control, tranny controller & rear ABS controller all use this speed sensors PID output to do their things.

The ELM / FORScan combo can read the rear & front ABS speed sensors as we drive, so it would be easy to see whats not working. My replacement rear ABS speed sensor measured 1.91K ohms & fixed my ABS & cruise control woes as the OEM sensor measured Open circuit on my multimeter. So, use your multimeter to measure the suspect front & rear speed sensors resistance.
I opted for a BWD speed sensor back in Dec 2013 I believe it was & its still doing fine.

Some beginning thoughts for consideration, let us know what you decide to do.

 

Thanks for the info. I’ll definitely check into this tool and try to get the codes from the mechanic.
The first time this happened I replaced the rear sensor and the light went out, about 2012 or so. At that time the only problem was the light was on. In fact I probably got the heads up to do that from this forum.
This last time I replaced the rear sensor first and it didn’t help but thinking back on it something felt weird. It wasn’t as quick and smooth as the the first time. I’m wondering if I didn’t get it seated properly.
Tomorrow I’ll see about getting the codes. I noticed today they didn’t install the new one for the left front either.
These mechanics are great guys and I’ve been using them for decades, but maybe they aren’t as dialed in as they could be on these problems.
I appreciate the help and will keep you posted.

 

I finally got ahold of the mechanic, it seems their phones were down yesterday. He said the recent work had nothing, I think they gave up early... but the invoice before that when the first replacement ABS module was installed had codes on it.
I pulled the invoice and will transcribe what it says....
"USED ABS MODULE CUSTOMER BROUGHT DOESN'T READ OR RESPOND AT ALL. CURRENT MODULE IN THE TRUCK WAS ONLY HAVING PROBLEM READING RF WHEEL SPEED SENSOR. THIS MODULE DOESN'T RED LF RF OR REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR AND HAS CODE INSTALLY (SP) OF C1155 LF SPEED SENSOR C1145 RF SPEED SENSOR PO500 SPEED SENSOR A P1464 AC DEMAND OUT OF RANGE"
The initial replacement module was left installed. They took it out to put the latest one in, said it didn't work at all and put the original replacement module back in. So the truck has the first replacement module in it and the original one that came with the truck is in a box in my garage.
I'm positive when this started they told me the left front sensor wasn't reading, not the right one as noted in their notes.
If these codes make any sense it would be helpful. I'm about 95% in favor of installing a new rear sensor and see what happens. It's cheap and at worst case at least that part is new. Thankfully this isn't my daily driver anymore so I have some time to get it working. The main push for fixing it is it has a trailer hitch and we have a bike rack that goes with it. The wife wants to go around the area and ride our bikes outside of our neighborhood.

 

Ok good idea to have posted the work order trouble code clues. Seeing as how there are codes for All of the ABS system speed sensors, I can see how the ABS controller got high up on the suspect list, as it isn't likely that All of the speed sensors would go bad all at once. So Strongly Resist the urge to toss parts at the problem on a hunch, wait until you get a positive Test result before replacing a part. As I posted above, you can measure the speed sensors continuity / resistance with a multimeter to determine if its open circuit or shorted to ground.

Seeing as how this puppy is a 4X4, you use it to haul bikes to remote sites to ride, caused me to review my post #2 & I see forgot to ask if this problem came about Suddenly after some event, or slowly, or individually over time???

On a trouble-shoot with multiple trouble codes, we are to Begin with, work & put right the Lowest number trouble code First, erase the codes & operate the vehicle, scan again to see if any codes reset or cleared, or new ones appeared & if so, proceed with working the Lowest number remaining code until it clears.

So, right now until you come by the ELM scan-tool & get FORScan diagnostic software on the viewing device of choice involved, to monitor & help organize the trouble-shoot, the Lowest code number is P0500 for the Rear ABS speed sensor & since you've reported no speed-o which uses the rear speed sensor PID to do its thing & you have a ABS code for that part of the system, you could remove the rear ABS speed sensor electrical connector to inspect for pin / socket damage, corrosion, pin-socket push-back, & do a continuity check on the Rear ABS speed sensor with your multimeter to see if it or the wiring run to it is open circuit, or damaged or shorted to ground. If all that checks out ok, then with all the system speed sensor codes saying they're all bad, which isn't likely, the ABS / GEM controller would move higher up on the suspect list But let the ELM / FORScan results guide where best to look next & keep us updated on how it goes. More thoughts for consideration.

 

Ok, sounds good. Just to clarify it’s been years since we actually hauled the bikes. Only recently have we gotten re-interested is riding them. I’m 68 years old, the wife is 65 so we thought we should sort of work on being in better shape. BTW I play in an adult baseball league too.
This last go round with the warning light goes back a couple of years, I don’t remember if it came on intermittently or just stayed on.
I thought it was weird all of the sensors being out too but I didn’t read the report after the first replacement module was put it. They just said it was worse than the original one and I just thought the problem was the module. Using a multimeter, I will stick the probes into the plug? Obviously looking to make sure they’re touching separate points, right? Sorry to seem so ignorant but I’ve just never really worked on this truck and just depended on the mechanic to fix anything. The scan tool is a must get for me. There are so many options I’ll need to be careful in choosing what I get.

 

Right, with meter probes on the rear speed sensor pin contacts the meter on the ohms scale, say at X1K or X10K ohms if the meter isn't Auto- Ranging & it should measure something like the 1.91K ohms I posted in #2 reply above.

Look in the First post of the ELM thread I linked above for a ELM scan-tool stand-up sales & after sale support vendor BAFX, for consideration, reported by members on this & the TCCA forum.

 

Ok brother, I'm going to order a scanner. Based on your post a few years ago I'm thinking this is the one or close to it you got. I haven't used a multimeter yet as it's been around 100 every day here and the truck is parked outside in the direct sun. I know, probably a little bit lazy but I'm wanting to get the scanner for future use. Since the Ranger went down we upgraded my wife's ride and I'm driving her old 2002 Toyota RAV4. Now that is a fun car to run in the winter, it's almost impossible to get stuck with it.
Anyway, here's the link to the tool. Can the software be downloaded from a site? I'll move one step at a time.

 

Oopa, I meant to send this link.

 

Both are for portable things like i-phone, i-pad, etc. so make sure the diagnostic software of choice will do what you want it to do on the vendor ELM of choice, over the Max work distance & data load of things you want to monitor, so you don't get data drop-out & let us know All code Number clues you find.

 

Thanks. I see the cheaper one, the first link says it does not do ABS and some other things which is why I sent the second link.
I’ll order the other one and roundup the software. I did check the old rear sensor I replaced a couple of years ago with a multimeter and it read zero which I wasn’t surprised. I’m assuming I checked it right.
So, if I replaced the rear sensor a few years ago and the light didn’t go out is there a chance I might have caused more problems? The speedo and everything worked up until this last bout. I realize it’s a loaded question but I’m just wondering if I did cause damage running it with the light on all this time. I guess we’ll see when I get the reader.

 

The diagnostic software & what computer / controllers the mfgr has installed on the vehicle determines what the ELM can find to read or monitor. I think what the BAFX website is referring to is saying it only displays what the govt says has to be displayed that covers emissions, so that would be the engine ECM parameters that affect emissions, not ABS, Body, Anti-Theft, etc, so the BAFX unit should be fine, at least folks on this & the TCCA forum say they have been when running FORscan.

If you ran FORScan on the viewing device of choice, it can monitor Way more than the minimum. The enhanced FORScan version we can load for a few $$ will let us program keys & a lot more.
I've never had use for the extra things it'll do, so have never had a need nor down-loaded it. The free version could query my ECM, ABS, Body, Anti-Theft & GEM modules, so I've gotten by with the minimum so far, but wouldn't hesitate to purchase the enhanced version of FORScan if I came to need it.

I'd seriously consider the BAFX ELM as the other vendor is a unknown entity.

 

Just toggled over to the FORScan "Whats New" page here What's new (forscan.org) & they've recently put up (June-27-22) a Android Demo version, so if your going to use a viewing device that runs that operating system, now you can run it & see if it'll do & display what you want & how you want to view it.

 

Thanks. I was figuring on using my iPhone. I have a PC laptop but wasn’t concerned about if it would work.

 

I got the tool today and tried two apps before checking to see which one you recommended.
I got the forscan app and it was much more detailed.
No idea what I’m doing but generated a report. Some problems listed I had no idea they were problems, like the wipers. It does look like the front sensors are both bad, maybe just need to be cleaned up.
Attached is the report.

===OBDII DTC P0500-P===
Code: P0500 - VSS sensor circuit fault.

Status:
- Pending - malfunction is expected to be confirmed

Module: On Board Diagnostic II

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

VSS sensor circuit fault.

Open VSS circuit.

Shorted VSS circuit.

This DTC may be caused by :

Suspect VSS.

Worn or Damaged VSS drive gear on transmission output shaft.

Suspect PCM.

Faulty or damaged instrument cluster module.


===END OBDII DTC===

===PCM DTC P0500===
Code: P0500 - VSS sensor circuit fault.

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

VSS sensor circuit fault.

Open VSS circuit.

Shorted VSS circuit.

This DTC may be caused by :

Suspect VSS.

Worn or Damaged VSS drive gear on transmission output shaft.

Suspect PCM.

Faulty or damaged instrument cluster module.


===END PCM DTC===

===PCM DTC P1000===
Code: P1000 - On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Systems Readiness Test Not Complete

Follow the routines in the service manual to resolve the DTC listed.


===END PCM DTC===

===PCM DTC P1502===
Code: P1502 - Vehicle speed sensor signal intermittent

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Vehicle speed sensor signal intermittent

This DTC may be caused by :

Short circuit

Open circuit.

Possible causes are:

VSS

PCM

Harness wiring

Worn or Damaged VSS drive gear on transmission output shaft.

Refer to the workshop manual for further diagnosis and repair.

Follow the routines in the service manual to resolve the DTC listed.


===END PCM DTC===

===IABM DTC ===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Integrated Air Bag Module
===END IABM DTC===

===GEM DTC P1804===
Code: P1804 - Four wheel drive high indicator circuit failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Four wheel drive high indicator circuit failure


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC B1450===
Code: B1450 - Wiper select switch circuit failure

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Wiper select switch circuit failure

--- Possible Causes --------
This DTC can be generated by:

-Battery Short Wiper Wash/Delay Switch

-Open Wiper Wash/Delay Switch

-Suspect Generic Electronic Module

-Suspect Wiper Wash/Delay Switch


===END GEM DTC===

===GEM DTC B1352===
Code: B1352 - Ignition key in circuit fault

Module: Generic Electronic Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Ignition key in circuit fault


===END GEM DTC===

===ABS DTC C1155===
Code: C1155 - Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure

Module: Antilock braking system

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure

This DTC may be caused by :

Sensor

Short circuit

Open circuit

Sensor Previously disconnected.

Damaged or contaminated connector


===END ABS DTC===

===ABS DTC C1145===
Code: C1145 - Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure

Module: Antilock braking system

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure

This DTC may be caused by :

Sensor

Short circuit

Sensor Previously disconnected.

Open circuit

Damaged or contaminated connector


===END ABS DTC===