When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I got a BW1350 T-case that I’m swapping in. I believe it’s the later version of the 1350 as it doesn’t use the front CV shaft. I have it mounted to the transmission right now so I can take measurements for the prop shafts, lifting it by hand wasn’t fun haha. I need information about the E4WD’s wiring, what each sensor does and how it communicates to the trans ecu. Without the sensors hooked up, I’m sure it’ll through a code and make the 5r55e act up.
any help is appreciated, thank you. BW1350 Dana 28-2 (E4WD)
The way the E4WD works is that the controller looks at the speeds of the front and rear wheels, and if they differ by about 10%, it will lock the center differential for a few seconds, and check again. But this only happens at vehicle speeds of 25 mph or less.
My 1990 model has the first iteration of the E4WD system, and the controller sits under the driver's seat. I pulled it a long time ago when I had high enough differences in wear between the front and rear tires that it started to lock the center clutch as I was going through parking lots; low speed, lots of turns that presented enough speed differential between the front and rear to be interpreted as slip.
The later models have that function integrated with the engine and drivetrain computer, so you can't pull it like I did with mine. If the drivetrain computer detects a problem with one of its components, it can disable the transmission lockup and cruise control, and maybe the ABS.
The way the E4WD works is that the controller looks at the speeds of the front and rear wheels, and if they differ by about 10%, it will lock the center differential for a few seconds, and check again. But this only happens at vehicle speeds of 25 mph or less.
My 1990 model has the first iteration of the E4WD system, and the controller sits under the driver's seat. I pulled it a long time ago when I had high enough differences in wear between the front and rear tires that it started to lock the center clutch as I was going through parking lots; low speed, lots of turns that presented enough speed differential between the front and rear to be interpreted as slip.
The later models have that function integrated with the engine and drivetrain computer, so you can't pull it like I did with mine. If the drivetrain computer detects a problem with one of its components, it can disable the transmission lockup and cruise control, and maybe the ABS.
Not the cruise control
Maybe I could swap computers with a ranger or an explorer that has the 1356 tcase. Or possibly add a couple of resistors to “trick” the ecu into thinking everything is okay. I remember seeing a post with someone doing something like that a while ago. Swapping the ecu and controller from idk, let’s say a 1996 ranger with a 4.0 and 5r55e, should work right?
But the 1350 slid right in! It was heavy though, couldn’t use a jack so I just picked it up and proped it with my legs. I’m going to have to remove it though… the output shaft seal is gone and dumped 3 or 4 quarts of atf when I separated the AWD case.
Not the cruise control
Maybe I could swap computers with a ranger or an explorer that has the 1356 tcase. Or possibly add a couple of resistors to “trick” the ecu into thinking everything is okay. I remember seeing a post with someone doing something like that a while ago. Swapping the ecu and controller from idk, let’s say a 1996 ranger with a 4.0 and 5r55e, should work right?
But the 1350 slid right in! It was heavy though, couldn’t use a jack so I just picked it up and proped it with my legs. I’m going to have to remove it though… the output shaft seal is gone and dumped 3 or 4 quarts of atf when I separated the AWD case.
*update*
I checked the wiring harness out with the tcase module, it doesn’t seem to hookup to the main harness. Does it connect to the ecu in the floorboard? If not then it looks like it’s entirely separate from the others. I know that the engine and trans are tied together, but the tcase module looks to be completely separate.
im just going to unplug the module and see what happens
You're right; I just checked my Chilton's manual, and it does not show any difference in the AWD control modules among all the years. They're all under the driver's seat. So you should be able to just pull it, and it shouldn't affect anything else.
You're right; I just checked my Chilton's manual, and it does not show any difference in the AWD control modules among all the years. They're all under the driver's seat. So you should be able to just pull it, and it shouldn't affect anything else.
awesome, I’m going to annoy so many wrangler owners with this van. However I did come to a small bump in the road, the 1350 tcase is 5 inches shorter than the tc28. That means that when the front prop shaft is installed, is sitting right on top of the crossmember. I’ll have to trim around that area and see if I can gusset the xmember to keep it from folding. Also I think the trans mount may be bad, it seems to compress more than it should even though it’s only a year old.
What part is 5 inches shorter? The front output area? (A picture might help show what you need to cut?)
What about the main body? Will you have to modify the rear drive shaft as well?
At one point I was entertaining the idea of replacing the A4LD with a Mazda HD manual 5 speed transmission, just to avoid the problems with the weak automatic. I found that the TC28 should bolt up (same gasket), but wasn't sure about the engagement of the output shaft to the TC. Also, the M5OD-HD is a couple inches longer than the A4LD, so it would have required lengthening the front prop shaft and shortening the rear drive shaft, and modifying the trans mount.
What part is 5 inches shorter? The front output area? (A picture might help show what you need to cut?)
What about the main body? Will you have to modify the rear drive shaft as well?
At one point I was entertaining the idea of replacing the A4LD with a Mazda HD manual 5 speed transmission, just to avoid the problems with the weak automatic. I found that the TC28 should bolt up (same gasket), but wasn't sure about the engagement of the output shaft to the TC. Also, the M5OD-HD is a couple inches longer than the A4LD, so it would have required lengthening the front prop shaft and shortening the rear drive shaft, and modifying the trans mount.
Yes the output shaft, my apologies. The output shaft is shorter than the one on the tc28. I haven’t measured the rear driveshaft yet, I might be able to get away with using a different yoke and a spacer, but I’d much rather have a steel tube if I’m going off-road with this van. I’m not entirely sure how an aluminum shaft would hold up.
The section of the crossmember in front of the new tc is where I need to cut. I figured I can out 1 1/4” of that section so the unjoint will have sufficient clearance, and add something underneath to reinforce the modified xmember. Currently I have the Xmember spaced out enough to find how much clearance I’ll need.
that would be pretty cool to see someone pull it off, I’m not sure if this would work, but you might be able to rig something up with a fox body crossmember. They seem to have the same mounts. You’ll have to modify the driveshafts if the trans it self is longer.
I think I can shoehorn a Dana 35 SLA in, I’ll have to drill some holes for new mounts and possibly notch the subframe a little to clear the pumpkin. But it looks doable, I’m picking one up soon so I’ll be able to roll it under and see what I’ll have to do. There’s also an 8.8 from another Aerostar at the local pickapart, I’m definitely snagging that as I don’t want to get stuck on a trail with a broken 7.5 . hopefully both these axles will have 4.10 gearing
awesome, I’m going to annoy so many wrangler owners with this van. However I did come to a small bump in the road, the 1350 tcase is 5 inches shorter than the tc28. That means that when the front prop shaft is installed, is sitting right on top of the crossmember. I’ll have to trim around that area and see if I can gusset the xmember to keep it from folding. Also I think the trans mount may be bad, it seems to compress more than it should even though it’s only a year old.
