The SuperCab has a four barrel carb that I've always thought of as an Edelbrock. An Edelbrock rebuild kit fits it and it looks like an Edelbrock. I figure if it quacks like an Edelbrock, it must be an Edelbrock. Thing is, the part number on the front corner doesn't match anything I can find online and I don't know enough carb lore to make a guess as to what it really is. I bought the truck in December of '98, it came with this carb mounted on an Edelbrock SP2P aluminum manifold.






Michael

 

As soon as you said SP2P I figured it must be a Carter. Which is what the Edelbrock is based off of in the first place.
Specifically a Carter AFB (stands for "aluminum four barrel") and by the nature of that metal tag encompasing the front curve, and that I don't see an automatic choke, I think it used to say "Competition Series" on that.

The good news is that they've been around forever, are easily tuned (if not a bit fiddly to learn, like a Holley is to newbies like me) and that most anything for an Edelbrock is going to work with the Carter.
There are differences of course, but not many. So depending on what you need, you might be able to find it in the Edelbrock catalog. But if you can find Carter-specific parts, so much the better.

Based on the type of screws I'd have to say it's a later model too. Probably the GM version which was what most shops had on their shelves, where the only real difference was the side of the carb that the fuel inlet was on.
I don't see the mounting point for the choke cable, but maybe I'm just not remembering, or it's not visible in the pic.

You might be able to find it's exact size/type by looking up those same number with Carter instead of Edelbrock. Try just the "9757S" alone as well.
Most of them were either 500cfm or 625cfm, but they did go bigger even back then. I think they could be had up to 850, but I might also be thinking of Rochester Quadrajet carbs.

Hope that helps.

paul

 

I meant to mention that the SP2P (stands for "single plane, two plane") intake is a late seventies to early eighties intake designed to make more low end without sacrificing top end.
It was ok, but not great so it was eventually dropped for more modern designs. Nothing says you can't use it since you have it, but it might depend on what kind of engine you're making.

What's it going to go on?

Paul

 

It doesn't matter what it is as anything bigger than a 500 CFM 2V carb is a waste on that intake.

 

Thinking back a little, they may have even put the metal plaque on there for "Carter AFB" as well, but the first ones I saw were "Competition Series" and I had one of each.
One other way to tell them apart (if the numbers don't do anything) besides the manual choke vs automatic is to look at the throttle plates. The competition plates were more squared-off at the leading edge, with fewer transition slots or notches or holes. The street series were more a beveled shape, with more transition bits.
The difference was feelable in the off-idle quality. The street series had a smoother transition, while the competition was more abrupt.

If you're not familiar with carburetors or engines in general, that large 3/8" vacuum port with the bit of old hose on it is for the PCV valve. Edelbrock has two ports, where many Carters had only one. If you have two you can use one for PCV and one for vacuum brake booster if needed. But if only one, it MUST be used for the PCV valve since you don't want that run off of a single intake runner. Only the common plenum area is workable for PCV whereas a booster can get it's vacuum sourced from just one cylinder.

The smaller port on the right side of the picture with the cap on it is full vacuum. The one on the left (notice it's higher up) is "ported vacuum" which is most often used for the straightforward simple single port vacuum advance cans on distributors.
There are good arguments on both sides of the track for using one or the other for your vacuum advance duties. I've done both with decent results, but always felt the ported vacuum signal to be easier to mess around with and fine tune for the street. Especially for new-to-tuning learners.
But either one can work, so go with what you know.

Sorry if you knew all that already, but I figured I'd add it in case you or someone reading might find it informative.
And now I can see the clamp plate for the choke cable on the passenger side right where it should be.

paul

 

Well dang, I swear I searched the 9757S! Turns out it is a Carter 750 cfm AFB. I did look at the Carter AFB but most of the online pics I found looked enough different that I felt it wasn't an AFB. First hit for that number was Carb's Unlimited which I used to visit way back in the 80's. At one point they were going to sponsor me and a friend for a rally that ran up through Alaska to above the arctic circle. That fell through when the rally officials somehow confused the Range Rover we were going to be driving with a Ford Thunderbird and told us we couldn't enter due to our choice of vehicle. Anyhow, I found a carb on eBay that matched mine and even has most of the Competition Series label intact.

Although this is by no means my first rodeo, I do appreciate the input as it verifies my thinking. I was a Plymouth Registered Trouble Shooter or something like that in late '79. Didn't get to go to any of the competitions as I was a runner up but it was still a cool adventure for a high school junior. Used to have a certificate that I remember as saying "specializing in electrical and fuel systems" but that could also have been my ego coming up with that title! I have been running the single can advance off of the ported vacuum source and the short hose does go to the PCV. There is a Ford C40E-9A589 spacer as part of this install that I will ditch for a Edelbrock heat insulator gasket as the Ford part is probably more a cast aluminum vacuum leak generator than anything else. It's not flat, it doesn't mate well with either the carb or the intake no matter which way up it's installed and it also has a PCV port that is plugged with a bolt. It looks like it's a Mustang part so I'll toss it in the box with the odd bits of NOS chrome from my '65 Mustang that's been sitting on the shelf since '87.

I am fully aware that the SP2P wasn't well received by the performance crowd and that a 750 cm carb on a unmodified low compression 390 with stock exhaust is a bit of a waste but it came with the truck and will go back on after the bone stock rebuild. Although if someone wants to trade a 500-600 cfm carb of similar make and in good nick, I might consider it. I think the PO used the truck with a camper or 5th wheel as there was a 7 pin socket in the box and some odd attachment points on the roof that may be for a deflector and fell for marketing vs engineering. After all, who puts a 750 cfm carb on a bone stock other than intake 390 with single exhaust?

Thought I'd add that it's a bit grungy right now as most every part of the engine that could leak did. Until I blew the cooling system up, including cracking the block near the starter. That's why it's apart now. I've rebuilt the carb once or twice in the past, I had issues with both the float level and float drop being way off and with junk plugging the idle circuits every few months. I changed filters a bunch of times and replaced most of the rubber lines to get the fuel system cleaned up enough that it's not had issues in years. Since it ran when it was pulled apart and I'll be breaking in a new cam, I'll hold off on pulling the carb apart until after its up and running. No need to add yet another variable to the mix.

Michael

 

And I just noticed Wild Horses in Paul's signature. I used their document for the Pollak 42-103 fuel valve as a reference when I converted the 3 tank manual valve with factory 2 tank gauge switch to a 3 tank solenoid valve with 3 tank gauge capability. '74 and down was a manual valve with a switch for the gauge, '75 and up had the solenoid valves instead of the manual valve. So much easier switching between tanks with a single switch. I still have not added a sending unit to the saddle tank, I'm terrified the hanger bolts will break if I try to remove it and they look like they go through the tank.
Link to that adventure.

Michael