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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Stock Radiator

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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 09:41 AM
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Stock Radiator

Anyone using a stock radiator to cool engine other than original flathead. It seems everyone wants to change to aluminum but is it necessary? If I can change the inlets/outlets should it work just as well? I plan on running clutch fan from original engine which fits nicely inside original shroud. Does anyone know specs on the original rad? My truck is a ‘51 F1.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 11:51 AM
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Original rad

When I first "restored" my F47 I had my rad core replaced. I am running a 5.0L engine and had a radiator shop build me a rad using the stock frame and new core from a 70's Chev. I paid $325 in 12 years sgo. Last Summer I shopped around to have my radiator repaired, quotes were $1000 for a 3 row, copper core. I reluctantly went with an Aluminum rad from Speedway.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 12:34 PM
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If you have a good stock radiator I would use it. I easily cooled a 56 Buick nailhead V8 driving cross country in late June many years ago flat towing a Model A with good weight in the bed and it was hot coming cross country on I80. I had recored the radiator a year or so before the trip. The picture is loading up for the trip in Ca.


 
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 01:09 PM
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A radiator repair shop can change your inlet / outlet configuration, had mine changed to accommodate the 302 engine swap on my 49 F1.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 49willard
If you have a good stock radiator I would use it. I easily cooled a 56 Buick nailhead V8 driving cross country in late June many years ago flat towing a Model A with good weight in the bed and it was hot coming cross country on I80. I had recored the radiator a year or so before the trip. The picture is loading up for the trip in Ca.
That’s kinda what I figured. If my rad is good then why not. I’d love to use it if I can as to not waste good parts. 👍🏻
 
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by moejr
A radiator repair shop can change your inlet / outlet configuration, had mine changed to accommodate the 302 engine swap on my 49 F1.
Yes I’d definitely have to do that with the different engine setup. 😊
 
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tip49
When I first "restored" my F47 I had my rad core replaced. I am running a 5.0L engine and had a radiator shop build me a rad using the stock frame and new core from a 70's Chev. I paid $325 in 12 years sgo. Last Summer I shopped around to have my radiator repaired, quotes were $1000 for a 3 row, copper core. I reluctantly went with an Aluminum rad from Speedway.
Oh wow! That is very spendy. I’m thinking if I can flush it really good and have the inlet and outlet relocated/replaced I should be good. What is the reason they would normally need to be recored?

BTW…I’m in Beaumont, AB, what part of the province are you in? 🤔
 
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Oligny51
Yes I’d definitely have to do that with the different engine setup. 😊
Its only money...$$$$
 
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Oligny51
What is the reason they would normally need to be recored?
my core was falling apart

BTW…I’m in Beaumont, AB, what part of the province are you in? 🤔
West of Calgary...Cochrane
 
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by tip49
Its only money...$$$$
Haha. Isn’t that the name of the game if you’re into working on old iron! 😉
 
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 05:03 PM
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Nothing wrong with the stock radiator.
A good thing to keep in mind when swapping radiators/engines, etc. You can end up with a weird mishmash of inlet/outlet sizes. You can get rubber reducer bushings in a range from 1 1/2" up to 3" (I think). I got mine through NAPA Auto but I'm pretty sure you can get them through several sources. If you Google "radiator hose bushings" you should come up with numerous options.

 
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Old Mar 27, 2022 | 09:07 PM
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Good to know. Thanks Bobby. 👍🏻
 
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