If any of yall near henderson need tires pm me the size your looking for and will let you know if i have any. We have some customer ordered tires that were never picked up and discounted heavily in our shop. These are brand new tires they were just not picked up by the individuals that originally bought them. Many of them are going for $30-60 a tire vs the $130-150 they were originally.

 

Dang Shawn that sounds like a good deal! None of my vehicles need tires right now though they are relatively new. I'm going to ask my daughter though, she has a Ford Focus and last time I noticed, her front tires were looking a little sketch. Probably 17" but I don't know the width/aspect ratio I would have to look.

 

Any in an old school 14 inch? Think 235 / 70 / 14 yea I know LOL
I need 4 for my project street car even just to move it around as the tires on it now are dry rotted so bad they dont hold air and 1 day 1 will blow up in my face just putting air in it to move.

Like John everything else with modern sizes has got good rubber on it.
Dave ----

 

Dang i knew i forgot to check something today. That be this website. Im off tomorrow so ill have to look on thursday.


but i think most the discounted ones are like 16+ but will still look. I know we do keep SOME 14s in stock but think they only range from 185-215 for width.

 

i swear what else can go wrong this month... first one of my computers crashes (like hard crashes, as in no longer will boot up... blank screen worse than the blue screen of death)... the trucks driver side front wheel bearing goes bad on me... and now my water heater in the house is in need of replacement... all within 3 days....

 

nope dont have that size. Do have 185, 195, and 205. $53-$65. But can get them at any walmart. Theyre standard stocks of 70-75 sidewalls

 

Shawn,
Thanks I will check into Walmart when I get closer to needing tires.
I hate to have the new tires dry rot just sitting as I (should be) working on the car LOL
Dave ----

 

I know a couple of weeks back I had posted up a pic of the underside of my air compressor which was very rusty, apparently it was holding like a quart of water and the drain was gummed up with funk. So Dave pointed out this makes that tank very sketch as far as trusting it with pressure, and even though it was still working I thought he was probably right and better safe than sorry. So I got an old tank I had sitting out, where the compressor had gone bad and been tossed years ago.

I wanted to remove the rusty old fittings, but one was very stubborn and I just couldn't get it. My torch usually works good for loosening rusted bolts but it's just a propane torch and can't produce the kind of heat needed to get that fitting to budge.


I only have 2 friends nearby that I could think of that might have tools to get this fitting off, Dave Fuzz who I figured was at work since it was the middle of the day, and Wayne who is retired, so I hit Wayne up and he said "bring it over!". Well he got a "real torch" oxy-acelene I think, turned that fitting red in time at all. Problem is, it was still stuck that due to the metal being softened by the torch, it deformed the fitting into an oval!


So our best bet at that point, cut it off with a cutoff wheel, drill it out, and tap it. Of course at this point I am wishing I had just left the old fitting in.


After drilling it out, Wayne gets his pipe thread tap and started going at it.


Only to have it shatter and cut his hand! Now the way I have always done taps, is 1/2 turn there, 1/4 turn back, 1/2 turn there, 1/4 turn back, etc, so you kind of creep up on it. He was just powering straight through and it got into a bind. Luckily it was not a serious cut.


The old compressor doesn't mount in any way that I have ever seen, it just had 4 metal tabs that were more or less springy and would hold it in place.


So I cut up an old piece of shelf rod and bent some tabs out of scrap, welded together and sprayed a little gray paint on them.


The using some 1/2 threaded rod and a few cable clamps, I mounted this to the top of the tank.


Then I could put the compressor in place, snug up the bolts to hold the tabs in place, and then run a new line to the tank.


The shape and weird mounting setup of the compressor meant that my handle wouldn't work in the original location anymore, so I spaced it out using some 2x2 scrap and some long 1/4" bolts.


With a little cleanup and fresh new fittings, it looks good and works well. But it does take a long time (9 minutes) to completely fill itself and shut off. It shuts off at 120psi, but I think my other compressor in the workshop out backs shuts off at 100. I wonder if it is adjustable, because it was over 100 within 5 minutes, but it took 4 more minutes to get to 120.

 

I would have thought Wayne would of known better
Sorry to hear he got hurt at least it was not bad and you got the compressor up and running.

I did some work on the pickup. Adjusted the vacuum advance can so.e more to hopw stop the pinging.
Adjust the clutch as I did not like where it was grabbing.
And last was replace the wheel Ebrake cables because the ones I installed were the wrong ones.

When adjusting the rear brakes had my son step on the pedal to center the shoes and it went to the floor.
Booster & master were replaced before I got the truck on the road little over 2 years ago.
Bleeding did nothing think the master just went bad.
It never was 100% to me but it stopped, it don't now.

I have a new not remand I picked up late yesterday just did not have time to install before this weekend.
On top of all that my son told me when we got in my eye was bleeding where I got the needle Friday
Dose not hurt just looks bad.
Dave ----

 

Wow good you found that master cylinder issue while working on the truck rather than have the pedal go to the floor while you're out driving! You still got all week to find some time to swap it out for the new one.

So I finally did something on the F100 parts truck that I had been planning to do for more than a year. I brought a can of gas out and ran a hose down to the fuel pump so I could feed the 300 some fresh gas. Charged the battery, got in the truck and hit the starter for a few seconds (just to turn it over a few times and make sure the carburetor bowl had gas in it), and it fired right up without me ever hitting the gas pedal! Just fired to life and started idling. So I got my phone out and took a video, then it died about 30 seconds later. I messed around with it a little afterwards and adjusted the idle speed screw and got it to stay running a little bit longer, but here is that first video.

 

Them 300 are hard to kill and why I love mine.
I could not open the file on my phone will try on the pc when home.

I got the master mounted yesterday before I went to get my yearly CDL eye test for the waver.
At least the pedal pumps up now but being my eyes were messed up from the testing I did not get to bleed them, hope today.
Dave ----

 

Truck has brakes again!
I used my home made brake pressure bleeder and got a lot of air out of the rear, nothing out the front.
I have not road tested but just moving it from my garage to the house garage it has never felt so good.

I also added a small can of 134a with sealer to the AC system and will check for leaks again with my black light after I use it some.
Other than needed a wash before the show Saturday I should be all set.
Dave ----

 

Nice! Sounds like brake issues are all sorted out
I wanted to work on parking brake for my Mustang but I have too much other stuff going on that I probably won't be able to get to it.

 

Being yours is a auto its not too bad, mine being a stick if on a hill even in gear you may find it not where you parked it.
I had a Toyota LC and a buddy lived on a pretty steep hill. I cam out and found my truck moved 3 feet!.
Another time I found it on the bumper of another buddies truck. That is when I figured the low compression motor would leak down in each hole and move a little till it hit something and stopped. The park brake worked like crap on the LC as my buddy had one and it did not same thing as he lived on that hill.

It is nice I can step on the park brake pedal and hear 2 clicks and it is tight and I still have a lot of adjustment left on the cable that I did not have before the cable swap.

The pick up brakes work great! I got to relearn them as the pedal now grabs higher and the power brakes are really are power now.
I think that new / old master was never right out of the box.
Dave ----

 

that is why when your parked on a hill your supposed to turn the wheel so if it rolls it goes into the curb and stops. People forget to do this and leave the wheel straight so it just rolls back till it hits something or friction overcomes the pull of gravity.