Has anyone used them? They look like a good set up as opposed to “slapped bars”.

 

I have not Kenny. But it seems to me in the past there was a thread about whether to use them or not.

 

I have not used them but they look like the same concept as standard traction bars I am familiar with.

Have you looked around on the muscle car forums for reviews?

 

They work for intended use, but are a band-aid type solution. They induce bind to control axle wrap. but cheap and easy compared to other solutions.

 

There use is in drag racing and they work great! And yes I have used them on my 1/4 mile drag car.

How do you figure they "induce bind to control axle wrap"?
When the axle (pinion) is pivoting up it pushes the bar forward that then pushes on a tri-angle bracket that pivots on the front spring bolt.
This bracket then pushes down on the top of the front spring and in turns "plants" the wheels to the ground and lift the front end putting more weight on the rear tires.

The great part is they are adjustable for different track condisitions and easy by turning the bars and it only takes a small amount to make a change unlike slapper bars.
To adjust the "hit" on slapper bars you have to change how far the rubber bumper is from the spring eye bolt area.
The only way to do this is to cut them shorter for more gap / harder hit or get longer one for less gap / softer hit.

Also if you dont have Ubolt clamps over the top of the springs on the front of slapper bars can cause big issues.
If you let off the gas or hit the brakes the front of the bars can drop digging into the ground and loose control of the car / truck as the rear jumps in the air, not so with Cal-Tracs.
Also I said the slappers need to hit the springs at the front spring eye bolt.
If not and hits anywhere short of the eye bolt the springs will bend.

I can tell you the Cal-Tracs will be noisy as the front pivot loads and unloads on the spring unless you have them adjusted up tight.
I can hear this over open headers when I back up then put in drive it will bang.

Would I use them on the street?
If it was a street / strip car / truck yes other wise there are other options.
my .02
Dave ----

 

Other options:
You can try and clamp the front half of the leaf springs turning them into a solid part in front and spring on the rear part.
Thing is what to use and will it clear the frame if the spring moves pass it.
I used Uclamps the best I could but they hit the frame on that car.
It was a street car I was racing till the drag car was built.

The other is changing the leaf springs out for a set like the MOPAR SS drag spring.
They make the front part of the leaf springs HD kind of like the clamped spring above.
Because they are built up on the front side they act like slapper bars and stop axle wrap up.

You might be able to make them by using thicker leafs as wide as yours and only use the front half of the main leaf, eye cut off, and maybe 1 other leaf added to your springs.
Only use the front part not the full leaf as you want the rear part to flex going over bumps and keep that soft ride LOL.

I think I would go with something like the MOPAR SS springs if having issues with axle wrap up.
Dave ----

 

Thanks guys for the thoughts and information. The slappers do make it ride hard I have the slapper snubbers too close to the springs. The information about the MOPAR leafs is interesting.
I remember watching the way the Thunderbolts launched against the Mopars, the front end lifted at the same time the rear lifted on the 7k sidestep launch. The first time I saw it happen I thought the car was going to leave the ground.