HARD START
5th Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 42
Likes: 6
From: TN
Sorry for your loss. Sounds like your alternator or voltage regulator (if separate from the alternator) is defective. With a low battery (anything below 13V) the alternator should put out 13.5 to 14.5V to recharge the battery. What type of alternator do you have?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 6
From: Central Oregon
Thank you, guys. Ben, my Son lived in Midland Texas, I assume you're in Austin Texas. He played for the West Texas Drillers and this year was playing for the West Texas Oilers
After a rather cold night, it was 29 degrees last night, but Big Red is tucked safely in the North bay of my Shop. The battery 12.72v this morning.
FirstF100 - I don't recall what type of alternator I have. Looked through my papers and couldn't find anything on the alternator. The alternator does have an internal regulator. I'll try looking in my past purchase receipts tonight to see what I can find on the alternator.
Ben - You're right shop time is very therapeutic. However, I spent most of my time doing some leading on the door of a 1969 VW Squareback. I'm shaving the door handles and was leading the seams of the plate I had welded in the concave part where the door handle would have been. I'm not very good at leading but is sure is relaxing.
After a rather cold night, it was 29 degrees last night, but Big Red is tucked safely in the North bay of my Shop. The battery 12.72v this morning.
FirstF100 - I don't recall what type of alternator I have. Looked through my papers and couldn't find anything on the alternator. The alternator does have an internal regulator. I'll try looking in my past purchase receipts tonight to see what I can find on the alternator.
Ben - You're right shop time is very therapeutic. However, I spent most of my time doing some leading on the door of a 1969 VW Squareback. I'm shaving the door handles and was leading the seams of the plate I had welded in the concave part where the door handle would have been. I'm not very good at leading but is sure is relaxing.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 6
From: Central Oregon
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Make sure the alternator case is grounded, not just thru the brackets but with a heavy wire from a bolt on the case to the battery. The GM alternators have a threaded hole on the back just for this.
The 1-wire regulators are easy to replace and about $20 last time I bought one. Might be worth a shot.
The 1-wire regulators are easy to replace and about $20 last time I bought one. Might be worth a shot.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 6
From: Central Oregon
Make sure the alternator case is grounded, not just thru the brackets but with a heavy wire from a bolt on the case to the battery. The GM alternators have a threaded hole on the back just for this.
The 1-wire regulators are easy to replace and about $20 last time I bought one. Might be worth a shot.
The 1-wire regulators are easy to replace and about $20 last time I bought one. Might be worth a shot.
My plan tomorrow is to get everything back together. I was able to get most of the crimped connectors changed out and new ones soldered in place; wish I would have taken the time to do that the first time.
Good to know about the regulator.
So, tomorrow evening I should have some news for ya'll.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 6
From: Central Oregon
Ok, I was able to get everything buttoned up today. .
Checked the battery and it was 12.69v. Two days ago it was 12.72v.
Turned the key very slow cranking. Then it sped up and started. Turned it off, waited awhile, it started right off, no slow cranking. Turned it off again, questioned the Shop Cat on what was going on, he didn't know; tried again and it started right off, no slow cranking.
Tomorrow morning I'll see how it goes.
Checked the battery and it was 12.69v. Two days ago it was 12.72v.
Turned the key very slow cranking. Then it sped up and started. Turned it off, waited awhile, it started right off, no slow cranking. Turned it off again, questioned the Shop Cat on what was going on, he didn't know; tried again and it started right off, no slow cranking.
Tomorrow morning I'll see how it goes.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 6
From: Central Oregon
Yesterday, after having the battery tender off of the battery all night, I started the truck and it almost did not turn over, then it turned over a little quicker and then started. After running the truck for 15 minutes I shut it down. About an hour later I tried starting it again, starting was better than the first time but still slow. After starting it I let it idle for another 15 - 20 minutes and shut it down. The third time starting was the same as the second time. Today, after my Doctor's appointment, I'm going to pull the starter out and take it up to NAPA and have them test it.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 6
From: Central Oregon
I'll ask them up at Napa before I pull it. Didn't do it yesterday, too hectic - shop time at all 😭
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 6
From: Central Oregon
SORRY FOR NOT FOLLOWING UP ON THIS THREAD
Ok, all wiinter long every Sunday I check all of our vehicles' fluids and start them. My 55 F350 was always a hard start. The starter would hardly turn over, even though I had the battery tender on. But then I got to listening a little better and it sounded as though I had bad ground. I had noticed the starter would hardly turn and then all of a sudden the starter would crank with no problem. So I rigged up two alligator clips on 10 gauge wire, attached one clip to a starter bolt and the other clip to a good ground. Now the starter turns like it never had a problem. So, when I get the truck on my lift I'm going to take the starter off, clean the mounting surfaces real well, put the starter back on and for extra insurance put a 10 gauge wire from one of the starter bolts then to a good ground. Oh, and check my engine ground.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
This sounds like you are on the right track with the grounds...that said, I think that the continuity between the starter and the engine block is seldom in question. Where you should be directing your efforts is the grounding between engine and the chassis and body. Frame to body to engine, all should be well grounded and unfortunately many of us find that we have electrical issues that take us back to this being the source of our problems. These truck bodies are mounted with rubber isolators at the radiator saddle, the four corners of the cab, and the bed floor...it's no wonder that a missing bonding strap and a little corrosion can cause so much havoc with the electrical systems. Good luck.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 244
Likes: 6
From: Central Oregon
Ok, had a lot of maintenance to do (adjusting the valves, changing the spark plugs - they've only been in there for 8 years). Also, crawled under and put a ground strap between the starter and to the frame. Replaced the ground strap between the cab and cylinder head. Truck battery was down (I didn't have the battery tender on), charged the battery and same problem, starter not engaging and then starts turn real slow and then BAM it starts. Had it idling and then it died. Tried to start and no power to anything. Checked all connections and there were no fuses blown. Turned the key and started right up. I'm thinking the connection point from the cab to the cylinder head (because there's a gasket between the heads and engine block) that I may have to put a ground strap between the block and cylinder head.
