Heck, I've done this so many times in the last week, I thought I'd provide instructions for anyone else who is ever so unfortunate. A couple of things I've not seen on any of the vids made it a lot easier. Also, more than Fseries, the Eseries have to come apart/go together in the right sequence - it's about creating space to get to the next part. Sorry, no pics.

Disclaimer: my E450 is a shuttle bus with rear AC/heat, which made it a little harder. Request: If I've used wrong terminology, please correct.

1. Disconnect the batteries, of course.
From under the hood:
2. Disconnect the IAT sensor from the air cleaner box and remove the top cover of the box.
3. Remove the power steering bracket bolts and bolts holding the reservoir to the bracket, then remove the reservoir cap, remove the bracket, and replace the cap.
4. Remove the driver's side CAC tube and boots as one piece (remove the clamps at the elbow and cooler but keep the ones on the tube). It can be twisted and snaked out from under the air intake and PS reservoir.
5. Pull the degas hoses off of the air intake, then remove the front half of the air intake by loosening the clamp holding in to the back section. Move the PS reservoir out of the way into the space where the intake was
6. Remove the CAC tube/oil fill tube bracket. It is held on by a nut on one of the alternator bolts, two bolts into the CAC tube and oil fill tube, and a nut on a stud off of the intake elbow that just has to be loosened. The bracket slips out from under that nut and can then be worked out towards the driver's side.
7. Remove the intake elbow - 4 bolts hold it down and that nut in #6. A stud in the front goes through a hole in the fan stator - that's why the CAC bracket has to come off first, so it can move backwards. Some techs cut that stator hole open to avoid that so it'll be easier to get to the bracket. Some techs never put the bracket back on. Place a rag in the intake elbow hole.
8. Disconnect and remove the EGR valve. Place a rag in that hole.
9. Remove the passenger side CAC tube leaving the boot on the cooler at the bottom, but taking it off at the top. Note the position of the upper boot and clamps.
10. Pop the air intake breather tube out of the driver's valve cover.
Through the doghouse:
11. Remove the turbo down pipe assembly from the exhaust manifolds on each side. Remove the V-band clamp holding the down pipes to the turbo leaving the clamp on the down pipe assembly. Remove the V-band clamp from the EGR cooler leaving the clamp on the cooler and retaining the metal gasket. Remove the down pipe assembly.
12. Remove the V-band clamp hold the exhaust down pipe from the turbo leaving the clamp on the turbo. Disconnect the exhaust down pipe from the tail pipe below the truck. Let the exhaust down pipe drop to the ground.
13. Loosen the clamp holding the upper air intake to the turbo. Remove nuts holding the intake to the glow plug control module and EBP tube bracket. On my trucks, this is tricky because there's two sets of nuts, one of each side of the bracket to also attach a bracket for the rear heater hoses. Remove the upper air intake.
14. Disconnect the turbo VGT solenoid wire and detach its wire from the clip (through the hood) holding it to the turbo.
15. Remove the two bolts attaching the turbo oil supply line to the turbo. Swivel the oil line out of the way towards the front of the truck.
16. Remove the squeeze clamp attaching the oil fill tube to the passenger-side valve cover. Pull the oil fill tube out through the hood.
17. Remove the three bolts holding the turbo to the mount using a short 10mm box wrench.
18. Using a pry bar, lift the turbo off the oil drain tube.
19. At this point, it's possible to twist the turbo clockwise and remove it through the doghouse. DieselTechRon has a great video showing his technique. It's still not easy though, and even harder to get back in. Instead, I remove one of the intake studs (sticks up above the bolts) directly to the right of the turbo, and from under the hood, pull the oil drain tube from the HPOP cover. Now, the turbo slides out/in very easy. Little harder to put the drain tube back in than it was to pull it out - get the turbo in, then tilt it backwards out of the way - but not as much work as wrestling with the turbo.

If your Eseries has the rear heater set up, those heater hoses get in the way a bit, especially when installing the turbo, so I use a ratchet strap to pull them forward.

If you need to get the turbo mount out, take the bolt out that attaches the remote filter oil lines to the back of the upper oil filter housing, and then the bolt/nuts on the two clamps holding those lines at the bell housing, then pull those lines out of the upper housing. They were pretty tough, so I used a ratchet strap anchored inside my bus to pull on them. Then, you can pull them to the driver's side so the mount has room to slide backwards out from under them.

 

Doing this today, thanks for the tips!

 

Not ever done it on an E-series, but from what I hear: For the E series 6.0's drop the trans crossmember, 6 bolts, and that turbo will almost fall out of there.

 

Hmm.... I have it on the lift at the moment, I'll take a look at that crossmember. Theres a couple hours of parts to remove before I'm ready for that though.....
In another thread someone mentions removing a motor mount, but also admits that getting the motor mount out is more work than the turbo. Guess I'll find out soon enough.

 

Well, turbo is out. I'd say it took me about 2 1/2 hours.

I didn't have to remove the intake elbow or EGR valve. I did reposition the wire loom to above the firewall, maybe that gave me enough room.

I tried lowering the crossmember, for 4 bolts it made enough room that the turbo came out relatively easy.
I only dropped it 3-4 inches, I could have gone further but that was enough.