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2002 7.3, I finished stage 1.5 injectors, stage 2 turbo, hpop lines, fuel pump, fuel bowl reseal, up pipes, and turbo pedestal delete the other day. Just had time to start it today and while it did fire up, it's not without some problems. I can't build boost, and my load is still way high and if I try to drive up the driveway it just kinda chugs along and load is 100%.. Once I got it back in the garage I crawled under and saw my pass side up pipe to manifold leaking.. Would this cause it all or do I have something else going on?The 41% load is sitting there idling 100% is trying to drive up the driveway
2002 7.3, I finished stage 1.5 injectors, stage 2 turbo, hpop lines, fuel pump, fuel bowl reseal, up pipes, and turbo pedestal delete the other day. Just had time to start it today and while it did fire up, it's not without some problems. I can't build boost, and my load is still way high and if I try to drive up the driveway it just kinda chugs along and load is 100%.. Once I got it back in the garage I crawled under and saw my pass side up pipe to manifold leaking.. Would this cause it all or do I have something else going on?The 41% load is sitting there idling 100% is trying to drive up the driveway
Oil temporarily leaking out of the manifold is somewhat normal after an injector swap. If it continues, you have an issue.
Load represents IPR DC I assume?
There may be a lot if air in the HPO system that needs to be purged since you introduced air into the system. Was there a lot if smoke when you first started it after the injector swap?
Where are the injectors from?
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
Stage 2 what turbo? If it is a KC, did you remove the red vacuim line?
Yep tighten up the manifold to up pipe bolts to seal that leak. It will take some driving to work all the air out of the oil system, then it will run smooth.
Can you fill us in on what "load" means? It could be ICP DC as Sous mentioned, but I could imagine it being MFDES.
Also please give more detail on injectors and turbo. And up pipes. Need to know what parts we're dealing with. A pic under the hood will help too. Especially the up pipe to turbo collector clamp, that's a very common place for misalignment that causes grief.
Thanks, the Injectors are full force diesel 1.5, turbo is the kc 300 stage 2 with red line disconnected. I did tape the red line up, thought I read on here to do that on another post.
I'm honestly not positive what load represents on the cts3. It is worth mentioning that prior to my upgrades, I did have a hot restart problem twice, and driving to my dad's garage it shut off on me and I I was able to limp it the last half mile at 5mph with the load like it is. But it is absolutely not driveable right now as I can barely make it back up the driveway.
I don't doubt that there is a lot of air, I had used a mighty vac to suck the cylinders, rails, and hpop to try to get rid of as much of the old oil as I could. Every thing I read prior to doing this had people driving the truck for 50 miles to work it out, which just isn't possible.
I'll take some more under hood pics when I get off work this after and go back over. I fought with that turbo to manifold connection for a while to have to where I believe it's sealed right. I did have a good bit of smoke at startup, didn't seem to be any coming from there though seemed lower like it was the up pipe connection.
Something else I just thought, there was a engine light on, but the cts 3 showed no codes. Not sure if it's because I did the ebpv delete pedestal and that isn't hooked up now? O and I do not have a fuel pressure gauge. Tank is full so not under 1/4, and fuel pump is new.
Something else I just thought, there was a engine light on, but the cts 3 showed no codes. Not sure if it's because I did the ebpv delete pedestal and that isn't hooked up now? O and I do not have a fuel pressure gauge. Tank is full so not under 1/4, and fuel pump is new.
Uh... what was going on that prompted a new fuel pump? I only ask because one time I was advised to replace my HPOP, I did, and that wasn't the root cause of the problem.
Something else I just thought, there was a engine light on, but the cts 3 showed no codes. Not sure if it's because I did the ebpv delete pedestal and that isn't hooked up now? O and I do not have a fuel pressure gauge. Tank is full so not under 1/4, and fuel pump is new.
The CTS3 may not show codes. It seems to be an issue with them.
Mine doesn't pull them even though they are there. Same with a couple of others here. Don't rely on it to check codes. Use Forscan for that. If you have a Check Engine Light you have codes there.
The load thing I havent worked out what it relates to with the CTS3, it's part of their basic PIDs and honestly it's something I'm not very interested in monitoring. I do know that when cold it goes to 100% dead easy. Hot in gear idling mines around 22% from memory. Cold , I can't remember. As I say it's not something I look at.
Be really handy to know what fuel pressure you got as Tugly mentioned. May have a new pump but what if it's lines plugged somewhere and pressure drops like a stone when you apply throttle?
I did. Not know that about the cts3, I'll hook up an old edge evolution I have that found a code for a bad idm a few months ago and see if it sees anything.
I replaced the fuel pump on advice from a mechanic I know who had a similar issue starting and losing power when hot and when I looked it at, it was a factory pump that didn't look too healthy anyway.
If I can't figure it out or get closer to finding the problem after working on it today I may go buy a test gauge or order one for the cts3 which was the plan once i recouped some funds anyway. Forgot to mention, I did put the billet regulator with the gold spring in the fuel bowl when I rebuilt it as well. If pressure was an issue wouldn't I see it in park as well? I held steady Prob around 2200rpm after it was idling for a little bit and it didn't sound bad. Just once it's in gear it's game over.
I did. Not know that about the cts3, I'll hook up an old edge evolution I have that found a code for a bad idm a few months ago and see if it sees anything.
I replaced the fuel pump on advice from a mechanic I know who had a similar issue starting and losing power when hot and when I looked it at, it was a factory pump that didn't look too healthy anyway.
If I can't figure it out or get closer to finding the problem after working on it today I may go buy a test gauge or order one for the cts3 which was the plan once i recouped some funds anyway. Forgot to mention, I did put the billet regulator with the gold spring in the fuel bowl when I rebuilt it as well. If pressure was an issue wouldn't I see it in park as well? I held steady Prob around 2200rpm after it was idling for a little bit and it didn't sound bad. Just once it's in gear it's game over.
I also am having issues with the cts3 reading codes, but that's not what i got it for, is it possible you didn't get the fuel pressure regulator spring set properly? I would also say you may have a boot not sealing properly , may need to do a boost leak test, check those plenum boots
These trucks can and will idle with very little to no fuel pressure at times. Not all trucks will, but some will. When applying throttle, the engine will sometimes stall or be very lethargic feeling if the fuel pump is failing or fuel pressure is very low. Ford states a minimum of 32 PSI post filter for an engine under load. We usually recommend not going lower than 40 PSI for an engine under load.
Not using the "load" dial on the CTS3 as a measurement until we are sure what parameter or PID's it is utilizing.
TorquePro is a lot like CTS3 when reading codes. Some codes it will read and others it will ignore as if they are not there. FORScan is a better scan tool for diagnosis and troubleshooting via the OBDII port. Some information on FORScan is below. The last link is a great thread written by FTE'r BWST.
We need more information to go forward. Clearly something is not right, but there are too many questions regarding the running conditions of the engine.
Ok so I was able to plug in my old edge because apparently the cts3 won't pull codes. Got some unrelated codes which is weird to me cause they weren't there before.. But I have P0500 vss malfunction P0475 exhaust pressure control valve malfunction (which I expected since I deleted it)P0603 pcm processor keep alive, which I expected as I had that before with the old tuner P1316 injector circuit/idm codes P0720 insufficient input from output speed sensor.. The 0500 and 0720 got me confused as I didn't have them before and don't seem related. The 1316 has me concerned
Let's arm you with information so you can get these issues addressed and enjoy your truck. Take some time to get FORScan working as your diagnostic tool as Sous recommended - it will keep you from guessing. We can help you interpret the data.
You can see what codes are stored by the IDM per that P1316 PCM code, by running a "buzz" test on FORScan Lite on your phone. It's called KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test:
I don't have a Bluetooth odb2 dongle to run forscan at the moment.. I'll be ordering one, but I seem to have found the main problem. After checking hpop oil levels, trying to tighten manifold to up pipe which they are already as tight as they will get. I fired it up again and it actually sounded a little worse off the bat then the same as yesterday. Backed it out and tried to give some throttle pulling forward and same thing.
Then I thought surely the new uvch wouldn't be back, and I know driver side is hot because of the egt probe. Well sure enough, passenger side exhaust manifold was cool to the touch. So I guess I'm only running on half my engine, which explains a lot and hopefully didn't screw anything else up.. So I'm going to either replace it with an old one, or buy another one
Still confused why I have the speed sensor codes, but I'm less worried about those.
Darn good detective work. The codes discovered from the P1316 will likely point you to the offending bank/cylinders, but you're on it with a simple touch test.
Darn good detective work. The codes discovered from the P1316 will likely point you to the offending bank/cylinders, but you're on it with a simple touch test.
What brand/type of UVCH are you using?
Well replacing them was kinda a last minute decision. As I'm already well over budget and I picked the wrong part to cheap out on and used Dorman.
My old ones really didn't even look bad to be honest, I was expecting way worse when I took them off so tomorrow after work I'm going to put one of the Ford ones back on that I took off.
