"Small evap leak detected."
So where do I start? A couple days after I bought this truck, a bit over 2 years ago, the check engine light came on. I called the used car lot that I bought it from and he told to me to take it in and he would take care of it. So, I did, and he did. The shop only told me that a hose had a leak in it. That's all. That shop is 8 hours away now.

 

The most common leak points are the fuel tank filler cap and the vent valve.

Remove the filler cap and inspect the seal - having an aged appearance is normal but if it’s abnormally dry it will be cracking and/or flaking. If it looks ok (and is clicking when installed) wipe down the seal and filler neck seal surface with a rag (dampened with spray lube) to remove any dirt, then apply a light coat of lube to the seal and reinstall the cap.

If the seal is cracking or flaking, replace the cap.

The vent valves often get dirt or water contamination and stick open when they should be closing. If enough dirt builds up it’s typical for refueling to be very slow because the tank can’t properly vent and the pump keeps clicking off so if you’ve noticed that to be an issue then it’s probably due for replacement. Looking at pictures on rockauto.com I’d say the vent valve is mounted in the charcoal canister.

I don’t know exactly where the canister is located on your truck but most often they’re at the rear of the fuel tank.

Remove the valve to inspect for dirt contamination - if you find any, look inside the canister as well. A little dirt in the canister won’t hurt anything but if it’s built up then I’d recommend replacing the canister. Also inspect the fresh air filter as any dirt in the valve is likely the result of the filter not doing its job - they can be cleaned and reused but it’s just as easy to buy some open cell foam and replace it (air filters for weed eaters work well).

Do a visual inspection of the canister and lines leading up to the engine bay, looking for obvious damage or cracks/breaks - repair as needed.

The PCM doesn’t run the leak test until it’s been shut down for a certain period of time - typically it will run over night. If you can’t clear the code with a reader, it could take 2 or 3 drive cycles before the PCM recognizes a successful leak test.

 

Awesome. Thank you. I'll give that stuff a try and report back.

 

You’re welcome. I forgot to mention that the fresh air filter for the valve is usually attached to the filler neck for the tank, but if it’s not there, trace the hose that connects to the vent valve and you’ll find it.