I am about to change the serpentine belt on a 2000 Ranger 4X4, 3.0, 6 cyl with AC. I need to buy a wrench to release the pressure on the tensioner because there is not enough room to use a socket and I can't fit my hand down between the fan and hex bolt to determine the size of wrench to use. Does anyone know what size it is? It looks like maybe a 14 or 15mm.

 

thats all it is aflat bar with a socket on it. I changed mine with an end wrench, only takes a little pressure.

 

I am not sure where the tensioner is on the truck but on my 97, I got underneath and released the belt tension. It was on the passenger side accessible form the bottom. Had to wear my weed-eater goggles for all that dirt falling in my eyes but it was done in about 10 mins.

I used a socket so the position for leverage could be adjusted. You may be in a strange leverage positoin with a wrench.

 

Well, I do know exactly where it is and I can get it with a wrench, but I wanted to know if anyone knew the exact size! By the way, anyone know why that always squels so much? The belt that's on there is not even a year old!

 

YES. The tensioner spring is bad changing belt won't stop the problem, part is about $60 at most parts stores.

 

The wrench needs to be 15mm. I should know - I have taken that stupid belt on and off and put a new Dayco on to try to fix that squealing noise that you wrote of. All to no avail. I have 2000 3.0L and every time I cold start it it just sasses me for 3 or 4 minutes until it warms up. I will look inot fixing or replacing the tensioner. I haven't looked closely at it but do you think you could just shoot some WD40 in there? That fixes a lot of stuff.

 

Thanks for answering the wrench size question. Since you are having the same problem, I guess it is a common one with that truck! It's really irritating!
I am not sure if I could get WD40 in there or not. It's worth a try. So, you think the noise is coming from the tensioner itself then?

 

I am dealing with the same belt noise problem on a '98 3.0 Ranger. Replacing the belt seems to have made the noise worse and constant now. I plan to replace the tensioner. Does someone know a good procedure for this or a way to test the tensioner to see if that is actually the problem.

 

From a 97 Ranger Diagnositc/Testing CD:

Drive Belt Tensioner, Automatic

The drive belt tensioner (6B209) can be checked as follows:

1. With the engine running, observe drive belt tensioner movement. The drive belt tensioner should move (respond) when the A/C compressor cycles or when the engine (6007) is accelerated rapidly. If the drive belt tensioner movement is constant and excessive, a pulley or shaft is probably bent or a pulley is out of round. In rare cases, excessive belt rideout (uneven depth of grooves in belt) can cause excessive drive belt tensioner movement. This condition can be checked by replacing the suspect drive belt (8620) with a known good original equipment drive belt and repeating the observation.

2. With engine off, check for proper drive belt routing. Refer to the illustrations under «Removal and Installation». Service as required.

3. Visually inspect the wear indicator on the drive belt tensioner to ensure the drive belt is within operating range. Replace the drive belt as required.

4. Rotate the drive belt tensioner and check for a binding or frozen condition. Replace components as required.


Drive Belt Misalignment

CAUTION:
Incorrect drive belt installation will cause excessive drive belt wear and may cause the drive belt to come off the drive pulleys.

Note:
Original equipment drive belts are made of a special cord construction and are subjected to special testing before they are approved for use.

Replacement drive belts, other than O.E.M., may track differently/improperly. If a replacement drive belt tracks improperly, the drive belt should be replaced with an O.E.M. drive belt to avoid performance failure or loss of drive belt during cold operation.

Note:
4.0L does not have flat idler on tensioner.

With the engine running, check drive belt tracking (the position of the drive belt on one of the grooveless pulleys, idlers or drive belt tensioner. If the edge of the drive belt rides beyond the edge of the pulley, noise and premature wear may result). If a drive belt tracking condition exists, visually check the drive belt tensioner for damage, especially the mounting pad surface. If the drive belt tensioner is not installed correctly with the locating pins in the locating holes, the mounting surface pad will be out of position. This will result in abnormal drive belt tension and chirp and squeal noises.

If the above procedures do not correct the drive belt noise, try replacing the drive belt with a known good original equipment drive belt. However, the drive belt noise may return (with mileage) if one of the above conditions still exists uncorrected.

-With engine running, visually observe the grooves in the pulleys (not the pulley flanges) for excessive wobble. Replace components as required.

-Check all accessories, mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner, for any interference that would prevent the component from mounting properly. Correct any interference condition and recheck belt tracking.

-Tighten all accessories, mounting brackets and drive belt tensioner retaining hardware to specification. Recheck drive belt tracking.

 

I have the SAME noise problem,AFTER,a new Goodyear Serp Belt replacement.It didn't make noise UNTIL a month later on cold startup.It also "chirps" now at idle etc.! Thanks for the info,I know I shoulda replaced it when I did the Belt! DUH!

 

Oh yeah,I have an 02 Ranger 4X4 3.0 MFI,w/ac. 90000 miles .First belt too! Thanks,gonna check it out per ya'lls instructions!

 

Idler has some clearance! Think this could be it? It has maybe 1/16 inch or more "play" front to back.Cause it to squeal? Thanks

 

The belt tensioner has tension range marks molded into it's casting that'll indicate if the belts tension is within range.

The belt can be easily removed by placing a 3/8 breaker bars drive, into the molded in square hole in the tensioners casting to relieve tension, then slipping the back side of the belt off the walless idler pulley.

When replacing the belt, just reverse the process & route the belt over all the walled pulleys first, then slip the belts back side onto the walless idler pulley last, as you relieve the tension with the breaker bar.

If your unsure where the noise is coming from, try using a stethoscope to make sure the problem isn't a idler, or tensioner pulley bearing, or a broken or weak tensioner spring as has been sugested, or one of the belt driven accessories like the water pump, power steering pump. or alternator, or coolant or oil on the belt or pulleys.

A "cricket" squeek I finally ran down on the Taurus, turned out to be the OEM idler pulley bearing, that had ever so slight amount of play/looseness in it's bearing.

So, when you remove the old belt, closely check the play & smoothness in ALL the belt driven items bearings & replace any that have play, or sound/feel rough when spun.

Make sure ALL the pulleys are tight & squeeky clean BEFORE you install the new belt.

I've been running Dayco PoyCogg belts on the Ranger & Taurus going on 3 years now, they run a lttle quieter than the OEM Motorcraft belt & they are holding up fine, not cracking like the OEM belts did.

I've also heard good things about the GoodYear Gator Back belts.

I Keep the old belt under the seat for a spare, just in case!!!!!

A bunch more thoughts for consideration.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Spot on advice pawpaw. I had to replace the accy. belt and tensioner today on my 4.0L and the best way to install the new belt is wrap it around all the other pulleys first, and then squeeze it over the walless idler pulley.

(FWIW, the reason for the new pulley and belt is that, without warning, the old tensioner pulley disintegrated this morning while I was on the expressway near my house. I heard a bump and then looked in my rear view mirror and saw something shoot out from underneath my Ranger. Once the tensioner was gone, there of course was no power steering and no coolant flow, meaning I had to get the truck home PRONTO or risk a severe overheat. Very difficult to steer w/o power steering! The new pulley and belt are Gates brand from Napa. )

 

Good grief Rockledge, your lucky, glad to hear it didn't cause an accident!!!!

I know you keep your engine compartment squeeky clean, hope it didn't do any under hood damage to anything else.

Did the tensioners pully bearing sieze & cause it to fail, or was it a structial failure of the pully itself????

Makes me want to go check mine out, might be helpful to have a bit more of a hint what specifically to look for, like structural cracks in the pully, or a problem with the bearing, or maybe a problem with it's mounting bolt????