buffalo'd by fuel tank
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
Well guys, I need an opinion or two. Today I went to work loosening and lubricating the nuts/bolts that hold my rear fuel tank on my 90 F150. Got 3 ready to come off without a fight next weekend when I replace the fuel pump, but one is stuck tight and I managed to round the nut with too much Scottish persuasion. This nut is right next to the tank, so I don't want to apply heat or try to grind/cut it off myself. Will any shop touch this job? The tank is empty, but....do you think a muffler shop would be my best bet to get this done? If I can get this ruined nut/bolt off, pulling the tank and replacing the pump should go smoothly, but right now I am buffalo'd. Any suggestions, other than raising/pulling the bed?...that's just not do-able with my limited means/tools/manpower. Thanks for all replies.
More Turbo
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
How about trying a nut splitter tool or a hack saw on the nut. I know it sounds time consuming but it is safer. I am sure you can get a nut splitter cheaper then what the labor rate will be if you go to a shop.
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
You can usually shear these hex bolts pretty easily. If you can get a wrench or socket on the bolt just lock your vice grips on the rounded nut and start turning, either way if it is rusted on that solid. They usually break pretty quick, no flames or sparks to blow you up either and it's cheap!
1992 F150 Supercab SB 4x4 302 AOD 3.55 31x10.5 All Terrain on Ford 15x8 Ralleys
1992 F150 Supercab SB 4x4 302 AOD 3.55 31x10.5 All Terrain on Ford 15x8 Ralleys
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
Thanks for the tips/suggestions. Unfortunately, the bolt head is recessed in a nook on top of a cross member and the nut is recessed into the bend of the fuel tank hanger strap. So, sawing and simply wrenching the bolt off are not possible. What exactly is a nut splitter? How does it work? I can only access this nut/bolt from directly underneath the nut. Thanks again.
Postmaster
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
Tim ,
A nut splitter basically splits the nut . It goes around the nut and it has a sharp tip that when screwed in toward the nut will split it in half . Unless you can find one small enough you may not be able to get on the nut youre trying to break loose . Which side strap is the bolt on , front or rear ? Ill have a look at mine and see if I can come up with a way for you to remove it .
Paul
A nut splitter basically splits the nut . It goes around the nut and it has a sharp tip that when screwed in toward the nut will split it in half . Unless you can find one small enough you may not be able to get on the nut youre trying to break loose . Which side strap is the bolt on , front or rear ? Ill have a look at mine and see if I can come up with a way for you to remove it .
Paul
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
Can you get a grinder on the nut? I've ground nuts down on opposite sides to use a wrench or vise grips on before.
Good Luck
Good Luck
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
Cut the strap, take care of the bolt after the tank is removed, buy a new strap
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
Thanks for more resonses.
Paul: When laying on a creeper, this is the right bolt/nut on the front retainer strap of the back tank.
I've also thought about grinding, but can't get a straight 90-degree shot at the side of the nut...so I'd wind up grinding on the retainer strap too. Plus, throwing sparks and heat this close to even an empty tank seems dangerous.
Also thought about drilling it out from the bottom, but that seems like a frustrating endeavor that would probably eat several bits and maybe burn up my drill...not to mention having metal shavings falling down on my head (eye danger even with goggles).
How much and where can I get a nut splitter? This may be my only option, if I can get the splitter to snug up around the nut from the bottom. Does the bottom of the bolt have to be flush with the nut for a splitter to work? I'm open to any and all suggestions at this point.
Paul: When laying on a creeper, this is the right bolt/nut on the front retainer strap of the back tank.
I've also thought about grinding, but can't get a straight 90-degree shot at the side of the nut...so I'd wind up grinding on the retainer strap too. Plus, throwing sparks and heat this close to even an empty tank seems dangerous.
Also thought about drilling it out from the bottom, but that seems like a frustrating endeavor that would probably eat several bits and maybe burn up my drill...not to mention having metal shavings falling down on my head (eye danger even with goggles).
How much and where can I get a nut splitter? This may be my only option, if I can get the splitter to snug up around the nut from the bottom. Does the bottom of the bolt have to be flush with the nut for a splitter to work? I'm open to any and all suggestions at this point.
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
I would squirt penetrating oil on the bolt threads on top of the nut (if you can get to it) and let that sit overnight. A sharp chisel might shave off enough of two sides of the nut to get a wrench or visegrips on it to turn it.
The only nut splitters I'm familiar with go over the nut and split from the side, so it sounds like you can't get on the nut like that. Final idea I would have would be to cut the strap like suggested above, or hacksaw thru the bolt if you can get to it anywhere easily.
Good luck!
The only nut splitters I'm familiar with go over the nut and split from the side, so it sounds like you can't get on the nut like that. Final idea I would have would be to cut the strap like suggested above, or hacksaw thru the bolt if you can get to it anywhere easily.
Good luck!
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
...forgot to add that I've successfully split nuts off when I could only access from below with the chisel approach as well. Also, if you can get a good bite with the chisel, try driving the nut off with the chisel.
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
Chisel is a good idea, but I suspect that you will not get enough angle to turn the nut. I would cut the strap, but I think without removing the nut, the strap is stuck on the truck.
Two thoughts you might consider. Sears is advertizing this nice set of bolt extractors, or something like that; basically a short drill bit that turns counter-clockwise (so it drills turning to the left) and an "easy-out" that grabs as the drill turns the bit.
Other option, drill out the bolt with a bit the size of the bolt, tap in an "easy-out" and turn the nut out. The idea here is to grab the nut from the inside, so the hole has to be the size of the bolt.
Once the strap is out, cut some of the threads off and weld a bolt onto it; you cut some threads off to be sure that you have enough threads on the new bolt to tighten the strap with a new nut.
Or, just dril till you are through the nut, and it comes off onto the bit.
Good luck.
Two thoughts you might consider. Sears is advertizing this nice set of bolt extractors, or something like that; basically a short drill bit that turns counter-clockwise (so it drills turning to the left) and an "easy-out" that grabs as the drill turns the bit.
Other option, drill out the bolt with a bit the size of the bolt, tap in an "easy-out" and turn the nut out. The idea here is to grab the nut from the inside, so the hole has to be the size of the bolt.
Once the strap is out, cut some of the threads off and weld a bolt onto it; you cut some threads off to be sure that you have enough threads on the new bolt to tighten the strap with a new nut.
Or, just dril till you are through the nut, and it comes off onto the bit.
Good luck.
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
Unless you have about 4" of clearance around the nut you won't get a nut splitter in there. At least that's my opinion just looking at my splitter. An idea I thought of is if you know somebody with a Dremel tool and some cutting wheels, this might do the job. I've also at times just had to break the bolt and extract the stud when everything else was out of the way.
Good Luck,
Fire
Good Luck,
Fire
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buffalo'd by fuel tank
I have had to work on and replace several in tank pumps and have found it easier to remove the bed in most cases. 6 bolts, the bed with out the tail gate may weigh 150 - 200 lbs and can be slid off and back on by one person, this then gives you free access to both pumps and tanks. Remove and Replace time is about 2.5 to 3hrs.