Mechanical fan delete
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 68
Likes: 5
Mechanical fan delete
Looked around on here a little and didnt find what I was looking for, I have a 93 Ranger 2.3 5sp. I was wondering if anyone on here has ever went with a electric fan and removed the mechanical fan. I got to thinking on the way to work the other day if I could find a electric fan that would move plenty of air I maybe able to remove my clutch fan. In traffic and on hills when the a/c and the clutch fan are both on it really kills my power, not like there was much to start with. I have a Jeep xj and I have a fan off a ford taurus on it and it works great, next time I am in the junkyard I think will try to find a fan that will fit up with my ranger radiator and try it.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Lets think about this some more. Above about 30 mph we don't need a fan, thus a reason for the clutch fan pretty much freewheeling above that speed, so it isn't using meaningful engine power, if its working as designed..
SO try Down shifting that puppy before the engine lugs, so to keep that 4banger rpm up in its torque power band. The 4banger likes to Rev, not Lug, like the old slow revving pushrod V8 & Inline straight 6 could do
It makes its peak torque at about 3000 rpm, so the steeper the grade, or driving condition that demands engine throttle response, select a gear that keeps the engine rpm in that range & let us know how it goes.
If your still of a mindset to do the electric fan conversion, remember your electrical system wasn't designed for the electrical fan load, so plan on up sizing the electrical system to take the increase in electrical demand. Larger gauge wire, higher amp hour battery, higher output alternator. All that weighs more, is still powered & weight is toted by the engine, so not likely to be much, if any noticeable net power gain.
SO, it seems you'd be more likely to experience some noticeable improvement by adjusting your shift points, to stay more centered in the engines torque power band, which again is centered @ 3000 rpm.
Some thoughts for consideration.
SO try Down shifting that puppy before the engine lugs, so to keep that 4banger rpm up in its torque power band. The 4banger likes to Rev, not Lug, like the old slow revving pushrod V8 & Inline straight 6 could do
It makes its peak torque at about 3000 rpm, so the steeper the grade, or driving condition that demands engine throttle response, select a gear that keeps the engine rpm in that range & let us know how it goes.
If your still of a mindset to do the electric fan conversion, remember your electrical system wasn't designed for the electrical fan load, so plan on up sizing the electrical system to take the increase in electrical demand. Larger gauge wire, higher amp hour battery, higher output alternator. All that weighs more, is still powered & weight is toted by the engine, so not likely to be much, if any noticeable net power gain.
SO, it seems you'd be more likely to experience some noticeable improvement by adjusting your shift points, to stay more centered in the engines torque power band, which again is centered @ 3000 rpm.
Some thoughts for consideration.
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