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Quantum Fuel 255lph pump problems

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Old Jul 25, 2021 | 04:10 PM
  #16  
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SFaulken
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Run heavier gauge wiring and go battery direct. That's the only thing you can do. I don't recall what gauge the factory wiring is, that runs to the fuel pumps, but I want to say it's a 14 or 16 AWG. Which should be able to handle the Amp loads you're looking for (22 and 32 amp ratings, respectively) Putting a seperate Full battery voltage relay for each fuel pump is probably your best bet, to get the maximum amperage you can to the pump.
 

Last edited by SFaulken; Jul 25, 2021 at 04:11 PM. Reason: Added clarification
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Old Jul 25, 2021 | 04:11 PM
  #17  
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Glad to hear you've found the issue. Thats correct, they do not say to upgrade the wiring and when I called them about it they assured me upgrading the wire size was not needed; the stock wire is sufficient. Please let us know what you come up with.

Have you seen this thread, it may help you decide about the wiring:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-pumps-2.html
 
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Old Jul 25, 2021 | 04:14 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
Run heavier gauge wiring and go battery direct. That's the only thing you can do. I don't recall what gauge the factory wiring is, that runs to the fuel pumps, but I want to say it's a 14 or 16 AWG. Which should be able to handle the Amp loads you're looking for (22 and 32 amp ratings, respectively) Putting a seperate Full battery voltage relay for each fuel pump is probably your best bet, to get the maximum amperage you can to the pump.
If that' the case, could the pump be bad? I did not measure the voltage drop, but I'm thinking it's around 12 or less.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2021 | 04:31 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by EllieMae94
Glad to hear you've found the issue. Thats correct, they do not say to upgrade the wiring and when I called them about it they assured me upgrading the wire size was not needed; the stock wire is sufficient. Please let us know what you come up with.

Have you seen this thread, it may help you decide about the wiring:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-pumps-2.html
Well now that you mention that thread maybe I don't need to run new wires. Either I have duds or my wiring sucks. I reused the pump wires on the sender. It did look a bit nasty. Wondering if I should redo pump wires.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2021 | 04:41 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by nc73
If that' the case, could the pump be bad? I did not measure the voltage drop, but I'm thinking it's around 12 or less.
It's possible, I have no idea. Build yourself a 10 gauge jumper wire, and run it battery direct to the pump, while you've got it off, and check your pressures then. That's a pretty easy test to see if you've got a big voltage drop somewhere in the factory wiring.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2021 | 06:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by SFaulken
It's possible, I have no idea. Build yourself a 10 gauge jumper wire, and run it battery direct to the pump, while you've got it off, and check your pressures then. That's a pretty easy test to see if you've got a big voltage drop somewhere in the factory wiring.
Yeah I will have to.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2021 | 08:28 AM
  #22  
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Welp ran power directly to pump, still getting only 26-29 psi. Voltage at the pump key on engine off is 11.49 to 10.48, engine running it is 12.94. 2 bad pumps, amazing. What the hell do i do now....if I get another set of pumps, it's just going to be crap too. Did anyone actually measure their pressures when they get one of these? The front ran fine. Rear lean condition for sure.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2021 | 09:08 AM
  #23  
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I have a tre perf pump, no module and tested it in a jar. Pegs over 100psi with power directly to it. Might hook that one back up, just not ideal without a module.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2021 | 11:45 AM
  #24  
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I feel your pain. It's BS the stuff they sell now days. I have been starting to think of a way to build a two way pressure relief / check valve to replace the FDM module. One way to open the valve and allow the return line to open when the pump is energized. The second way to keep the valve shut when running off the opposite tank. Then we could use whatever dang pump we wanted and could just scrap the FDM module all together. Build a little hanger for the pump and be done with it.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2021 | 11:55 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by nc73
Welp ran power directly to pump, still getting only 26-29 psi. Voltage at the pump key on engine off is 11.49 to 10.48, engine running it is 12.94. 2 bad pumps, amazing. What the hell do i do now....if I get another set of pumps, it's just going to be crap too. Did anyone actually measure their pressures when they get one of these? The front ran fine. Rear lean condition for sure.
Is it possible your fuel pressure regulator is opening at too low a pressure?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2021 | 12:00 PM
  #26  
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EllieMae94
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Originally Posted by nc73
Welp ran power directly to pump, still getting only 26-29 psi. Voltage at the pump key on engine off is 11.49 to 10.48, engine running it is 12.94. 2 bad pumps, amazing. What the hell do i do now....if I get another set of pumps, it's just going to be crap too. Did anyone actually measure their pressures when they get one of these? The front ran fine. Rear lean condition for sure.
Yes I was getting around 20 psi while running and couldn’t get it to go higher while accelerating. I also measured power to it at 12 volts. Quantum tech support had me ship it back to them (at my expense) to tell me they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. That is when I had them refund my money. I put the stock pump back in and has been running great since.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2021 | 12:04 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Zrt1200
I feel your pain. It's BS the stuff they sell now days. I have been starting to think of a way to build a two way pressure relief / check valve to replace the FDM module. One way to open the valve and allow the return line to open when the pump is energized. The second way to keep the valve shut when running off the opposite tank. Then we could use whatever dang pump we wanted and could just scrap the FDM module all together. Build a little hanger for the pump and be done with it.
Yup I bought 2 pumps without fdm's and 1 was dead after a few miles. Didn't work that well without fdm's so I got the quantums. I think I will remove the pump from the tank and hook it up in a jar like I did the Tre pump. Just to rule out the in tank wiring.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2021 | 12:07 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by GoinBoarding
Is it possible your fuel pressure regulator is opening at too low a pressure?
I hooked it directly to the tank outlet, so bypassed everything. I even replaced the regulator for kicks.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2021 | 12:12 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by EllieMae94
Yes I was getting around 20 psi while running and couldn’t get it to go higher while accelerating. I also measured power to it at 12 volts. Quantum tech support had me ship it back to them (at my expense) to tell me they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. That is when I had them refund my money. I put the stock pump back in and has been running great since.
Well I'm going to prove it to them by hooking them up directly to the gauge and take a pic. Might just go for a refund instead. No way I'm f'ing around some more. I will probably do stock rear and Tre front without FDM. Who knows maybe it' because i left part of the old pump wiring in place.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2021 | 12:31 PM
  #30  
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[QUOTE=nc73;19988410]Well I'm going to prove it to them by hooking them up directly to the gauge and take a pic. Might just go for a refund instead. No way I'm f'ing around some more. I will probably do stock rear and Tre front without FDM. Who knows maybe it' because i left part of the old pump wiring in place.[/QUOTE

Hope your luck is better than mine. I forgot to add in my last post the Quantum pump worked great for 2 or 3 days. Then the low pressure problems started...
 
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