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I've got a 1999 7.3 powerstroke with a 4R100 automatic transmission and the other day while driving up a hill, I lost power and then could only drive in reverse after that. I researched it and found that teh feed bolts were likely loose. I pulled it apart, found that they were loose, put it all back together and suddenly it could drive again.
While driving it around the neighborhood it seemed to have less power than normal, and then when I went to turn around it wouldn't shift into reverse, and while in neutral or forwards it tried to drive forwards. I then shifted to park and heard a clicking noise, and then it would only drive when I put it in reverse (it was actually going backwards too). By the time I got back to my house I found that it would go forwards in Drive but took more power than I expected to pull off the curb so I stopped and out it away for the night. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?
Sure the fluid level is correct? No check engine light?
Honestly I'm a little unsure on that. I was told it should take 18 quarts of fluid, but after about 14 it seemed to be overful--even after driving around it looked a little overful.
Did you possibly get the linkage out of place on the manual valve?
I'm sorry, I still am new with this and don't really know what is what--where is the manual valve and how would I know if the linkage is correct?
Also, one last thing I realized I forgot to add is that the overdrive off light has been flashing non stop now and I'm not sure what that means
This is the most important detail you have revealed in this thread so far. The flashing overdrive light means that your truck's computer can tell you where to look for a fault in the transmission.
Now you just need a listening device (scan tool or scan app) to hear what your truck is trying to tell you.
Honestly I'm a little unsure on that. I was told it should take 18 quarts of fluid, but after about 14 it seemed to be overful--even after driving around it looked a little overful.
I'm sorry, I still am new with this and don't really know what is what--where is the manual valve and how would I know if the linkage is correct?
I think he means the Digital Transmission Range Sensor.
Originally Posted by hmmhunter
Also, one last thing I realized I forgot to add is that the overdrive off light has been flashing non stop now and I'm not sure what that means
That means you have transmission DTCs stored. Get an SAE J1850 PWM compatible scanner and scan for codes. A popular option here is the OBDLink MX+ paired with FORScan.
EDIT: It appears Y2KW57 and I were typing at the same time.
No, the DTR is not the manual valve. The DTR cannot cause this problem. The manual valve is inside the pan, in the valve body. It had to be disconnected from the shift linkage to get the valve body off to tighten the feed bolts. I expect that the manual valve is not correctly attached to the shift linkage.
It is a total disconnect of the connector on the right side of the trans. Either every part of the solenoid body failed at the same time, or the connector is disconnected, or the wiring harness is damaged.
I also just checked fluid levels and even after driving last night and then sitting for 8 hours, the fluid is still showing about two inches above the cold line. Is this a problem or will it be ok to run it like this?
It is a total disconnect of the connector on the right side of the trans. Either every part of the solenoid body failed at the same time, or the connector is disconnected, or the wiring harness is damaged.
You were correct, the plug was disconnected. I also found that it was broken (wont snap in) and the connectors were covered in black oil. Is that a problem? And do you know where I can buy another plug to replace the broken one with?
I just started the vehicle and all the codes cleared, but once again, it just starts to move forwards in drive and then wont move but reverse works great. Any suggestions?
Please describe exactly what you took apart to get to your feedbolts to tighten them. I will post up the tests associated with those DTCs shortly.
The DTCs are gone, but I had to remove the pan, filter, valve bodies, accumulator, shift solenoids, and gasket to get to the bolts. I put everything back in where it was and torqued it to the right spec and once again it wont move forwards more than an inch when in drive.
I was a little unsure if I put the checkballs in the exact spot (I looked at diagrams but still couldn't tell for certain) would this cause any of these problems?