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I also just checked fluid levels and even after driving last night and then sitting for 8 hours, the fluid is still showing about two inches above the cold line. Is this a problem or will it be ok to run it like this?
I mentioned above, the fluid level needs to be checked with engine running, in park (or neutral), and warm. It sounds from your statement that it was checked with engine off and cold.
I mentioned above, the fluid level needs to be checked with engine running, in park (or neutral), and warm. It sounds from your statement that it was checked with engine off and cold.
I just warmed it up and checked it while running, the fluid level is still about an inch over the hot line. Am I gonna need to pump some of it out?
Fluid level isn't causing this, but it isn't good to be that high.
Since it is still doing this I think you need to take the pan off and see if the check ***** are in the right places. Having check ***** in the wrong location can do all sorts of things, including what you're seeing.
Fluid level isn't causing this, but it isn't good to be that high.
Since it is still doing this I think you need to take the pan off and see if the check ***** are in the right places. Having check ***** in the wrong location can do all sorts of things, including what you're seeing.
Well now I feel like an idiot, I went to start the process of taking it all apart again and realized I had run over my used oil drain pan and thats what was stopping the truck when I put it in drive. I moved that out of the way and it drives forward, but I get no throttle response. In reverse it backs up and responds to throttle perfectly but drive just idles forwards. Do you know what causes this?
The DTCs are gone, but I had to remove the pan, filter, valve bodies, accumulator, shift solenoids, and gasket to get to the bolts. I put everything back in where it was and torqued it to the right spec and once again it wont move forwards more than an inch when in drive.
I was a little unsure if I put the checkballs in the exact spot (I looked at diagrams but still couldn't tell for certain) would this cause any of these problems?
It doesn’t sound like you bumped the manual shift lever out of place then. You may be dealing with more than one transmission issue. Gettting the checkballs in the wrong place and/or forgetting to put some of them back does nothing good for the transmission. Is your OD light still flashing now that you have cleared all your DTCs? You may have to go for a test drive before DTCs are set again.
It doesn’t sound like you bumped the manual shift lever out of place then. You may be dealing with more than one transmission issue. Gettting the checkballs in the wrong place and/or forgetting to put some of them back does nothing good for the transmission. Is your OD light still flashing now that you have cleared all your DTCs? You may have to go for a test drive before DTCs are set again.
Yes the OD light stopped flashing and the DTCs are all cleared.
I think it is not fully engaging forward gears. The PCM can recognize this and disable the throttle until the engagement is complete. If there is a checkball out of place it is possible that the engagement will never complete and you will never get throttle. I think you have to drop the valve body again and make sure ALL of the checkballs are in the right place.
I think it is not fully engaging forward gears. The PCM can recognize this and disable the throttle until the engagement is complete. If there is a checkball out of place it is possible that the engagement will never complete and you will never get throttle. I think you have to drop the valve body again and make sure ALL of the checkballs are in the right place.
Ok, I’ll head back out and see what I can find. I read that’s it’s ok to put some Vaseline in there to hold the check ***** in place. Is that ok to do or will it cause problems?
I think it is not fully engaging forward gears. The PCM can recognize this and disable the throttle until the engagement is complete. If there is a checkball out of place it is possible that the engagement will never complete and you will never get throttle. I think you have to drop the valve body again and make sure ALL of the checkballs are in the right place.
Ok so I went out and took it all apart again--I didn't take out the valve body with 8 check ***** because I know that none of them had moved when I removed them the first time, so they are all exactly where they had been before. I did however redo the valve body with 4 check ***** because I had been a little unsure of the placement on them the first time.
Put it all together and found that it still will drive forwards as long as I want in D, 2, and 1 at idle speed, but when I give it throttle the engine speeds up and the truck keeps moving idle speed. Yet in reverse it performs perfectly. Any ideas on what to check next?