If it doesn't explicitly say it is capable of a LiFePO4 charge profile, I wouldn't use it. A regular lead acid converter puts out a charge that would be OK for an hour or so, but shouldn't be used for very long. The worst thing you could use would be a four stage converter.

 

With WFCO converters which are common, you can just swap out the power board to the LI+ model without changing out the entire converter. Just another thing to be on the lookout for. I know these systems sound simple on the front end, but there is really a lot to consider if folks really intend to live "of-the-cord".

 

When I still had lead acid batteries, I changed out my converter to a four stage converter. It was surprisingly easy to do. The biggest hassle/worry was that I had to cut the plug off the cord. My old converter was wired directly to the circuit breaker. I thought about putting in a new outlet for it so I didn't have to cut the cord, but I cut the cord in the end.

For my new converter that is LiFePO4 compatible, I did put in a new outlet so I didn't have to cut the cord. If the cord is cut, the warranty is null and void. Kind of a crappy policy.

 

I'll definitely post up on it, granted it will be from the perspective of a guy that's not a "car guy"! LOL!
Definitely went DRW. The NL 10.2 LE dry bath isn't a Host Mammoth, but it's heavy. And an SRW would be nicer around town. But there was no way I was gonna go SRW. Less aftermarket gizmo's to add and/or waste money on only to find out they didn't help with whatever issue they were bought for. Plus the blow out safety factor. More or less, the DRW was just a peace of mind choice. With the camper and 600-800 pounds of potential stuff, plus over all the DRW not adding a lot to the price, more peace of mind is worth it.
New truck is ordered. It's a '21 F350 Lariat. DRW, CC, LB. No camp pkg. I'll post a complete weigh up of the truck on it's own, total plus front and rear, then the same with the camper, then one with both and the camper loaded for camping.
I'm gonna drive it stock and see if any ad on's are needed. Seems like longer contact blocks are very common to engage the overload spring better. If so, I'll likely weld up my own, sized so they don't touch when unloaded or I'll make them easily removable. And once the shock wear out and if I think I need them, I'll add Rancho 9000XL's (Valves packed with grease right outta the box this time!)
We have a '98 GMC 2500 Sierra and an Okanagan 10.5' TC right now. Truck has firestone air bags and 9000XL's and alum. heavy duty rims and E rated AT tires. Camper and stuff are obviously over the trucks sticker rating. But with the bag, wheels and Rancho's, handles the TC OK. Sway, yep. Porpoising, yep. But never 'felt' crazy, but didn't feel confidence inspiring either, so was more tiring to drive then I think it should have been.
Everyone has to make their own call. Mine was to go maximum so I could enjoy the trip and have less stress. While I agree with many in the SRW camp on some points they make, there are just some things that can't be denied about going DRW.
I'll keep you posted. Going to look at the new TC today! If we can get past the murder scene down the road and the rock slide on the highway......

 

hello!
What panels did you use to get that much solar on the ground? That’s a lot!
And @RV_tech, do you have a build list on what you used to make your own battery bank and how you integrated it? That’s really good pricing when you diy!!

 

My panels are 320 watts from Mission Solar.