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Going over our build and checking some things. Wanted to make sure we have our cab mounts assembled correctly. I took these pics for the #1 mount, does that order of parts /direction look correct?
I can't quite tell from your assembly what your orientation is. The drawing is straight out of the factory service manual. You should have two rubber pieces, one flat and one T shaped. The small end of the T rubber sits in the hole on the frame mounting bracket. The cab sits on that rubber. The bolt goes through all that from the top side, then the flat rubber, flat washer and nut attaches on the bottom of the bracket. You just want to snug everything up to remove slop or play, not overtighten or squish the rubber, similar to installing shock absorbers.
You have parts that aren't shown in the drawing. No matter. When I spoke of the 'T', I meant looking at it from the side, the shoulder that fits into the hole in the frame bracket makes the rubber look like the letter T. The drawing has only the upper pad (the square one) with the shoulder. Both of your rubbers have the shoulder. But comparing the drawing with your exploded view, I would say your orientation is correct.
I just did mine a few months ago. The Dennis C. kits are a little different than original. Your orientation is correct for the front-most mount. I'm going to disagree about tightening; the shoulder on the bolt hits the bottom washer when it is all tight.
I'm going to disagree about tightening; the shoulder on the bolt hits the bottom washer when it is all tight.
Given this information, I will revise my recommendation and agree with Ross. I didn't consider having a shoulder bolt to tighten against, since the drawing showed a castle nut and cotter pin.
Originally Posted by 3twinridges
We didn’t put anti-squeak on the top frame, where the cab sits over it, should we have?
I didn't think the cab actually touched the frame with the suspension arm mounts at the back?
Thanks bud, it doesn’t touch that I am aware of. There was a cab mount thread I found where it referenced an article in a hot rod magazine, and they did that, I don’t know why.
Last question, on the cab arm bolts, I got them tight with a wrench, but did not torque them down to a specific value. Think that is too loose?
A torque wrench is great if you need to ensure a specific tightness for a specific purpose, like engine work or wheels. Most people can get 40 or 50 pounds of torque with a common ratchet or wrench if they're trying to tighten something. If you feel it's adequately tight for the job it's doing, I wouldn't worry about putting a torque wrench on it. My 2c.
