After building the new wooden bed and taking Fi-Fi hunting I have to get busy with a few other things and could use some help.

1. My turn signal arm (I have tilt wheel) won't stay locked for a right turn (I have to hold it). This happened after someone worked on the steering wheel column and I suspect that there is just a wire or something in the way but I don't know how far I have to go to fix it. Do I need to pull the wheel?
2. My rear fuel tank leaks and I suspect it is at the seam. While on my hunting trip, I saw another older truck and the owner showed me how he patched a bad seam with JB Weld and it has held for years. I assume I have to drop the tank and I am in for a mess because the straps and bolts are severely rusted! Can the tank be lowered just a few inches to get at the seam?
3. Has anyone used balancing beads for their tires? I have ripped the wheel weights off the last couple hunting trips when I get into nasty stuff, particularly when I drive through large mud puddles with 2 inches of ice on them....the ice rips the wheel weights off.
4. Lastly, my truck came with the sliding rear window and my insurance company is going to replace it because it got cracked when a semi threw up a rock. I don't know if I should have the sliding window put back in or just a plain window? My concerns are leaking and noise.

 

79 F-150 Stone,
- (1) Regarding your turn signal direction lever will not hold in the turning right position. Suspect the turn signal switch right plastic ear is broken. Way yo determine. You'll need to remove the horn pad and then the steering wheel. Will need a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel. Once you have the steering wheel off, the turn signal switch is exposed and you'll be able to see why the turn signal switch isn't holding. There are two plastic ears, one for turning left and the other for turning right. Don't be surprised if you need to replace the turn signal switch.
- (2) The only way to lower the fuel tank is with loosening the bolts. First try to see if you detect where the tank is leaking. If you do pursue JB Weld, ensure you prepare the area, thoroughly clean down to bare metal without any spark producing tools; use all hand tools, wire brush, emery cloth and clean with lacquer thinner.

- (3) Are your tire weights the stick on? If they are, either glue them on with epoxy of switch to the lead weight that crimp on the wheel's edge. But I don't have experience with balancing beads.

- (4) I like a sliding rear window and they can leak and be noisy. Important with sliding windows to have a good seal (one around the window) and the vertical rubber or felts need to be in good shape to minimize noise and water intrusion.

 

We tried patching a few pinholes in our tank mainly near the straps , but the JB did not hold.
We used a fuel tank cleaner/flush and sealer and the JB.

We prepped the area well and even put some brush on encapsulating paint when finished.

I suggest that for the time and money involved, just replace the tank.

If original it may spring a new leak anyway.

Also the tank strap insulators (Rubber strips) from LMC work really well on cleaned and painted straps.

 

X2 on what John89. JB Weld eventually turns to mush in contact with gas. The hardest part is dropping and reinstalling the tank anyway. If a tank is already separating, odds are that will continue.

 

I repaired a tilt column turn signal switch that was doing what you describe with this part. Wasn't too hard to do once the wheel was off. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Bronco...IAAOSwrVRbUi6D

I concur with those who recommend replacing the tank. I replace mine this summer. Advance Auto had them, & offered free shipping & gave me 25% off + a lifetime warranty. Final price was cheaper than anyone else. Be sure to paint the tank before you install it, & lay a thick coat of wheel bearing grease on the areas the straps contact. That will keep rust away.

 

Thank you all. I agree that it isn't worth it to try the repair on the tank. I am removing the steering wheel today.

 

" Lastly, my truck came with the sliding rear window and my insurance company is going to replace it because it got cracked when a semi threw up a rock. I don't know if I should have the sliding window put back in or just a plain window? My concerns are leaking and noise."
I got to wonder how a semi, or any vehicle going down a road could throw a stone and it hit your back window ?

 

I use Air Soft Red Jacket .hard plastic 22 caliber BBs to balance or to supplement balance. I use them in several cars, my '77 F-150 with the 31/10.50-15s and I recently added 3.25 ounces to the new 275/55-20s on my '07 as a fine tuning step The tires were good balanced by Discount Tire ... but now they seam to be perfectly balanced . You just have to break the bead loose on one side to put them in. There are several you tube vids of liquid & how to get it in letting the tire go flat, hook a hose up, jack the truck and the tire pulls a half cup or cup of liquid like 50/50 antifreeze in. It works and will adjust itself well.

I sealed my '77's back slider at all seams and pop riveted the frame to affix the glass closed.

 

My Freightliner will throw a rock forward off the drive wheels, it has happened several times, and once shattered my own back window. I thought I got shot at, scared the crap out of me.

 

Now there is some good old-fashioned ingenuity!

 

1. My turn signal arm (I have tilt wheel) won't stay locked for a right turn (I have to hold it). This happened after someone worked on the steering wheel column and I suspect that there is just a wire or something in the way but I don't know how far I have to go to fix it. Do I need to pull the wheel? Pulled the wheel, ordered the cam, will install it this afternoon.
2. My rear fuel tank leaks and I suspect it is at the seam. While on my hunting trip, I saw another older truck and the owner showed me how he patched a bad seam with JB Weld and it has held for years. I assume I have to drop the tank and I am in for a mess because the straps and bolts are severely rusted! Can the tank be lowered just a few inches to get at the seam? I will order a new tank and install it.
3. Has anyone used balancing beads for their tires? I have ripped the wheel weights off the last couple hunting trips when I get into nasty stuff, particularly when I drive through large mud puddles with 2 inches of ice on them....the ice rips the wheel weights off. I love the MacGyverisms by @tbear853 but I will order the glass beads and put them in through the valve stem.
4. Lastly, my truck came with the sliding rear window and my insurance company is going to replace it because it got cracked when a semi threw up a rock. I don't know if I should have the sliding window put back in or just a plain window? My concerns are leaking and noise. Although either window is free to me, I think I will have the plain window installed. Better vision, no noise, no leaks. But ..... I have time to mull this over until I can find time to get the truck to them for a day to do the job.

 

The rear windows really aren't that difficult to take out and put in, if you're inclined to do the job yourself.

 

The 75 (no ac) I had in HS had a slider rear. My sons 78 (no ac) does not. I wish it had a slider, my son doesn't care, but he's young, dumb and well you know the rest. If you don't have ac, I would get a slider. Plus it lets your dog go from cab to bed while going down the road.

Just my .02 from having both.

 

LOL.....
Yep, and it lets you throw drink cans into the bed while driving.
AND THEN... you can listen to the cans as they swirl around in the bed.....

 

Wow that's never happened to me. I would have thought someone hit it with a stray bullet or something.