Hello all. Just picked up an unmolested 2001 7.3 Excursion Limited with 137k miles. Getting ready to upgrade the intake, exhaust, and rebuild the turbo.

I don't know much at all about this motor other than arguably one of the best diesels ever put in a vehicle.

My question is while I have the aforementioned parts out of the way what should I be inspecting/replacing to help prolong the life of this motor, and more importantly, keep me from having to remove these parts again to fix something else.

Thanks in advance...

 

Hi Rich welcome to FTE.

I’m not sure about the fitment on an Excursion compared to the super duty but I’ll give a shot at answering your question.

I would look into doing a 360* turbo rebuild with a riffraff 4x4 billet wheel. Riffraff is a good reliable source for parts. Add a set of bellowed uppipes (Amazon/eBay cheap SS pipes are ok) because yours are most likely leaking if still the stock type.

Also consider getting a good set of boots and clamps. Plenum inserts are a good reasonably priced item to strengthen the plenum boot connection when adding the T clamps.

If you like, you could delete the EBPV (Exhaust back pressure valve) using the DIY method.

I’m not sure if the Excursion air box is the same flimsy design as the SD but if so then an upgrade to an AIS would be nice. The stock air boxes like to break and leak. If you don’t mind some more noise the 6637 type filter is a cheaper alternative. But be aware you will be able to hear it sucking and more turbo noise. Riffraff sells a good blue Donaldson version.

Excursions are often family vehicles so I would caution you on doing the exhaust as the larger exhausts can cause some drone. You may be better off to just go with a more free flowing muffler. Someone else will need to point you to what you need here.

If you haven’t already, check out the sticky tech folder as there’s a wealth of information there.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-7-3l-psd.html

Rebuild kit https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/gtp38...ild-kit-99-03/

Billet wheel. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffr...r-wheel-94-03/

Plenum inserts. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/rdp-p...serts-99-5-03/

 

Oops almost forgot a couple others.

I like the secret Zoodad mod. Free and really no reason not to do it. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16924907

Also the fuel tank pickup will break and the screens get plugged up. Consider doing the Hutch and Harpoon mods. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19216921

 

Thank you so much!

 

No problem. Hope it helps.

Do you know if the transmission has ever had any work? I believe the 2001 has the notorious “mechanical diode” one way clutch that likes to let go. Just something to keep in mind and maybe do a little research on.

When it’s time for some fun the Hydra is the go to chip. Comes with access to the PHP library of tunes you load yourself and supports “custom” tuners sending files for you to load onto the chip. Get the extension cable and you don’t even have to take it out of the truck to load the files. But you’ll need some gauges (at least EGT) before you go there.

It appears you’re too new for a private message. What part of OH are you from? I’m across the river in WV.

 

Transmission is 3 years old.

I do not intend to go overboard on tuning. Even though this is a "family hauler" it won't be used as such 90% of the time. I have already yanked the 3rd row and stored it securely in the garage.

I've been told i can add a tuner and run 75-100ish more hp with zero issues. Any more and things will start to break.

I used to own a ram 2500 with 6.4 hemi with 410 gears and could tow my 16000 lb boat with no trouble. I want this to do the same and thats as freaky as im getting with it. Though wont be as easy to carry a skid of river rock as the true pickup.

This thing has airbags already on all 4 corners even!

I just moved about 45 minutes north of Columbus, btw. Love hanging in cincy area though. Dont get down to the wv side much

 

<txt removed. stupid double post>

 

Fluids/flters and and drive it. The number of "what its" you could do preventatively is a very long list.

 

I agree. The main concern I had was what is being hidden by these parts that can be addressed while they are removed. The rest of the very long list Can be addressed as needed.

 

Be sure to remove the fuel line clamps at the heads. These little boogers like to wear a hole in the line. Another free maintenance point.

The other member is correct.
The modification process can become addicting quickly. They call it PMS around here.

BTW We are about 2 hours from Columbus.

 

Just a tip.
if you go to a 4" exhaust one of these resonators right after your downpipe will cut out almost all your obnoxious noise and drone.
FTE Resonator

They work really well in addition to a hushpower muffler
HushPower

Or one of the Donaldson "big rig stack mufflers" though not sure that this would fit under an ex like it did on my cclb
​Donaldson m090544

 

Welcome to FTE!

My take on it would be all top of the engine O-rings you can get to: turbo to pedestal, pedestal to block, HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) fittings (both ends), oil rail plug O-rings, and possibly even complete HPOP and fuel bowl reseal. If any of those O-rings are original it is just a matter of time before you are chasing leaks. I had an HPOP O-ring give out that hemorrhaged two gallons of oil in about 10 miles. I'd do an EBPV delete or rebuild while the turbo pedestal is out. Also, while in there I would install new HPOP lines, maybe the newer ones with JIC fittings so you could get rid of the quick disconnect fittings too. I would consider doing the FRx while in there.

You see where this is going: set your left and right limits and try to stay within them. Otherwise you'll spend a lot of dough on your 7.3. There are a lot of things it would be good to address while you have the access. If you are old like me, consider a topside creeper. It's a real back saver.

 

R.R. 4x4 wheel and 360* bearing turbo kit
plenum inserts
Cabinet oring kit
New style hoop lines
R.R. cac boots
Bellowed uppipes
New t-clamps
...the ebpv assy within the pedestal probably is leaking. Can order new one or if not cold where you live, can delete it(get new pedestal or weld up the old one)
..everything can be ordered from riff raff...

Mods go,..id do the Hutch mod

Check out guzzle diesel website for most prevent/mod lists....(no need for lift pump when doing hutch mod)

 

Unplug your fuel bowl heater connection at the back of the fuel bowl and leave it unplugged. You do not need it or want it. If/when the heating element burns in half and arcs, it will blow a fuse (#30?) and the truck will not run/start and it will take 'forever' for you to figure out 'why'. Unplug it and never have to worry about it again.

 

The fellas have you pointed in the right direction. As RacinJasonWV mentioned above, the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder is FTE inspired and FTE built for the FTE. Grab a notepad and a pen and jot down anything that sounds interesting to you as you read down the list. Then, delve into that link a bit more and see if it is something you are interested in doing or knowing more about. After reading the thread, if you have any questions or concerns we are here to help you in anyway we can.

We are especially good at spending your money, so there is that...

88 E-350 and Rich Murphy should be your first stop for preventive maintenance. Unless you know for sure what the history of the vehicle is, you should change every fluid and oil in the vehicle, except for maybe the coolant. Differential, engine, transmission, etc... I did this same thing when I first bought my truck over 7 years ago and it was a good move to get started on a fresh slate regarding fluids and oils.