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As this happens to you more and more, you learn to cherish the old original parts you have that still work. Some people have the idea that new is better and to change it to be safe. In some scenarios that is certainly true, but car parts seem to be not that way anymore. If you are changing a part to see if it fixes a problem, be very aware of what all the symptoms were before, and if you gain any new ones from installing a bad part. Glad you figured it out.
As this happens to you more and more, you learn to cherish the old original parts you have that still work. Some people have the idea that new is better and to change it to be safe. In some scenarios that is certainly true, but car parts seem to be not that way anymore. If you are changing a part to see if it fixes a problem, be very aware of what all the symptoms were before, and if you gain any new ones from installing a bad part. Glad you figured it out.
Yea, definetly will keep this situation in the back of my mind In the future when replacing electrical parts. Thanks again for your help!
On the choke, I have never ran a holley 12v choke. But I am using a Ford 12v choke on my Bronco, and it is wired to the alternator 7v connection. It seems to work fine that way for me. If you want to try it you could see if it works for you. It would be a little cleaner and if you have a little trouble starting it in the future, the choke won't be pulling off making matters worse. That's the problem with hooking it up to the keyswitch, each time you try to get it running, it's sending power to the choke opening it up.[/QUOTE]
My two cents here - I'm running a 82 F100 4.9/300 straight six also. I upgraded my alternator to a 3G and ran the white/black wire to the choke but still had choke issues for the longest time. So for what its worth - my stock choke is electric ASSISTED, not fully electric. My truck didn't run right until I fixed the heater pipe running from exhaust manifold up to the carb. I had NO IDEA how important that stupid little tube was.
About your comment that the regulator was bad out of the box. I've been an automotive electrician for 47 years working as a rebuilder in alternator / starter shops. I can tell you from experience that I have seen many aftermarket electronic regulators fail right away if the plug is inserted before bolting it to ground. I know it's easier to plug it in first but I've seen many failures doing it that way. Some brands are worse than others.
My two cents here - I'm running a 82 F100 4.9/300 straight six also. I upgraded my alternator to a 3G and ran the white/black wire to the choke but still had choke issues for the longest time. So for what its worth - my stock choke is electric ASSISTED, not fully electric. My truck didn't run right until I fixed the heater pipe running from exhaust manifold up to the carb. I had NO IDEA how important that stupid little tube was.
Yes, that can mess you up when using the original Ford choke system. I happened to know mine was a Ford 12v electric only. But I think the assist chokes are more common. On the assist chokes, the electric part doesn't even work unless the ambient temp around the carb is about 60 F + or somewhere in that temperature neighborhood.