Those worn/aged components could be part of your issue. I will mention that one thing we had that was impossible to notice until it was off, was that the lock washer that was with the pitman arm was broken. We couldn't find any play in it with everything attached and the weight of the truck on the ground. When we took the nut off, is when we noticed the lock washer was split. The pitman arm had slid down to where there was some play.

We got a new lock washer and nut from Tractor Supply. Once we got it torqued down it helped some. We have since replaced all the components (first) to eliminate them, but did end up getting a new box from Blue Top.

From your picture, it doesn't look like the shop used a new nut and washer. You might mention that to them if you get them to look at it again.

At least on a F150 the nut is a fine thread 7/8" (IIRC) and I ended up finding one as part of a hitch pin in the tractor section of the store.


The nut I used is in the other picture.

 

I will definitely check into the FTE forum here! I went out and yanked on everything, and it's all tight. I'll do the other checks and see what I find. I am assuming the worn steering stabilizer would not result in a bunch of play in the steering?

 

No that worn steering stabilizer bushing would not cause you to have 4" or 5" worth of steering wheel play. Their steering box rebuild guy is crap and that could cause it. And I thought they were suppose to look the truck over and missed a easy to spot bad bushing.

Do not let them talk you into adjusting the lock nut and screw on the top of the steering box. I have heard that it can cause the box to lock up.

 

I missed your remark about the leaf springs. Nope, there are 7 on each side. I had to laugh when you asked me if it leans..... we live on a piece of property where NOTHING is flat! Even the house! *grin*

I don't know for sure, but a previous owner had a lift done, and considering the mess I had to clean up in the rear (I kept breaking u-joints) he likely had the springs added.

 

If the po stacked blocks on the rear and did not put a axle degree pinion shim, between the axle leaf spring pad and the bottom leaf spring to change the pinion angle...... that can lead to u joint issues quickly. Especially when under a bed weight load or a heavy foot and power hopping occurs. Or bad traction in gravel trying to pull a hill loaded.

Stacked blocks act like a fulcrum and as the drive shaft twist goes thru the ring gear and that twists the axles. Right. But with the fulcrum stacked blocks can cause the power twisting to be also applies to the leaf springs and they S twist and that can transfer to axle twist and axle twist down pinion angle exceeding the u joint operating degree angle. Bang blew a u joint, but it all look ok just setting there static.

 

Yep, there were stacked blocks in the rear. I couldn't figure out why I was busting U-joints until one day my daughter was moving the truck and I happened to noticed that the whole rear axle, diff and all rocked back and forth when she pulled forward, stopped, pulled forward, stopped again. Uh-oh. Trouble.

Took it to Woody's 4x4 (they are awesome) and told them "if it's not right, make it so" They asked me what I used the truck for, and I told them I was hauling a heavy old horse trailer with three horses in it, bed full of camping gear, as fast as I could on the highway and back gravel roads in the mountains. Weee! So they did a block and spring lift, ect, and it's been great ever since. That was 20 years ago.

And yeah, why the bad shop guys didn't see and at least suggest a fix on the steering stabilizer is a mystery to me. The only thing I can think about the whole stupid fiasco is that they didn't think I'd spend buttloads of money on my farm truck. Whatever. I'm gonna have fun chewing their asses, and writing scathing reviews when I get good pics of my NOT okay brakes! And the gear box, if it turns out that's the problem.

I sure appreciate your input! I'll let you know tomorrow how the testing goes.

 

The stabilizer will have ne effect whatsoever on the problem you have. it's an accessory that's not really even needed. my high boy ( converted steering ) drives perfect without one and it has 33" tires. my '79 F250 4x4 with 265's on it drives the same with or without it.

You can't tell much by just pulling on these components. get someone to bump the steering wheel back and forth while you watch for any slack. if you see any it's too much. since it started all the sudden, if I understand correctly, it's probably in your box because a ball joint doesn't just up and get a bunch of slack overnight. and for a box to do that it's a total failure it's not wear.

 

Quick question: What is the torque for the bolts on the adjustable steering arm?

 

Sorry I am far away from my manuals. Are you asking about the tie rod looking end that one end connects to the pitman arm and the other end goes in the steering knuckle piece? Red arrows and not the blue circles right? And I dug around fo the Skyjacker install directions, they do NOT say the torque. I am web searching for you your answer.

 

Yes, red arrows.

My husband and I ran through your checks this morning. He spotted some slop in the back red arrow thingy *grin* When turning the wheel, it was moving back and forth at least 1/8th of an inch. He is convinced that is the problem. He's been trying to get that bolt out, but hasn't had any luck. And he said the nut wasn't tight at all. He got out the front red arrow thingy bolt, and he said that nut was tight like it should be.

So, my question is: Is he right? Would that 1/8th inch slop translate to 4-5 inches of play at the steering wheel? And, how hard will it be to find a replacement, assuming this IS the problem, and the arm is worn? Or could it be that it's just a worn bolt?

Also.... The manual I have sucks (Haynes) and the drawings/pictures of the steering components don't look like mine at all. After looking online, I realize it's because the truck has a 6 inch lift. Any idea what those parts would have come from?

Have I asked enough questions yet?

Got some research to do, and I'll be looking for your reply! Thanks again!

 

He just figured out he needs a special puller thingy. He's off to town (the long way, we have frickin' fires everywhere) to see if he can rent one from Autozone.

 

I do not believe that 1/8" play there would equal 4" or 5" in the steering wheel. Well good news is the part on each end is replaceable. Most normal auto part shops should be able to order it or there it always Rock Auto. Go to the parts store have them look it up, and get a good part #. Then right in the store look it up on Rock Auto using their # and then get them to price match. BAM. Ford a truck with a 6" lift kit there are a # of companies that sell aftermarket part for that lift kit. Sky Jacker, Super Lift, Jack-it,

The ball joint ends do thread in and out. And FTI one of them is left hand thread. Also good news, they have OEM maint manuals on CD, and even paper ones.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Ford-T...Cclp%3A2334524

He is going to go get/rent a tie rod fork. AKA a pickle fork.

 

Man, I sure appreciate your input!

I'm still hoping he's right. But if he's not, it's still something that needs fixing. And your info will help, that's for sure.

 

1/8" wouldn't create the amount of slack you have in the steering wheel.

you're either going to need to find more worn parts that add up to what you have or you're going to end up looking at the steering box again.

The good thing is you needed to fix the other stuff anyway so it's not for nothing.

 

Okay, here's the bad end:



Rear red arrow thingy

other side of the rear red arrow thingy

The bolt moves around a lot, and is WAY loosedr than the bolt on the other end, pictures of which follow