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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

Troubleshooting Headlamp Switch

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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 04:26 PM
  #1  
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Troubleshooting Headlamp Switch

I have a 1960 F100 Custom Cab and am seeking advice on troubleshooting my headlamp switch. I know the headlamp switch connects to the block with the fuses and are clipped together. The truck is stock and pretty much un-messed with. My issue: The low and high beams work fine and when I pull out the light switch half way the rear parking lights come on. When I turn the **** to adjust the dashboard lights nothing happens (lights are on and they don't dim or get brighter) and when I turn the **** counterclockwise it just continues to turn and the dome light does not come on. I believe I should feel a click or the **** should stop turning at some point for the dome light when turned counterclockwise.

I checked the dome light fuse and it looks good. I have a new bulb in it also and will check continuity when I find the wire in the bundle under the dash. Does this sound like I just need to order a new headlamp switch (C1DF-11654-A) or could the symptoms with the dome light and dash lights be in the fuse block (part # 11A647)? Is this a common problem with the headlight switch as they just wear out. It might only be 60 years old!

Thanks.

Doug
 
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 05:29 PM
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I think it is worth a new switch, not really too extravagant with the age of original.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 08:20 AM
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Spurredon,

Agree - I think new ones are less than $40. Will let you know how it works out.

Doug
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 03:25 PM
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yes the rotation should stop and you should feel a click when the dome light comes on, take the switch out, (you have to push a button on top of the housing and the pull bit slides out)
have a look at the dimmer resistance wire, its a coiled wire and a tab runs around it when you turn the ****, wipe it with white spirit or similar and try it again , it worked on mine.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 07:43 PM
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I had the exact same problem on my ‘60 and a new switch solved my problem.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 08:17 PM
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Thanks for the tips. Bri, I will pull out the switch and give it a try. I also ordered a new one. Will let you all know how it turns out.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 07:37 AM
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I'm confused, the 60 switch was a one year only also used in Falcons the best I remember from discussions in the past and info Numbers Dummy posted. No one makes a replacement that I have ever seen, if there is please post a link to it. I was lucky and found a NOS one on Ebay a few years ago.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by hiball3985
I'm confused, the 60 switch was a one year only also used in Falcons the best I remember from discussions in the past and info Numbers Dummy posted. No one makes a replacement that I have ever seen, if there is please post a link to it. I was lucky and found a NOS one on Ebay a few years ago.
The switch I got from NAPA (HL6043) $21.59 fit the wiring plug and operates the lights perfectly but has a different rod shape so I bought the Replacement rod (735-2789) $7.69 too and epoxy’d my original **** on after cutting it to the correct length. If my switch ever needs replaced its simple now! I believe its a ‘61 which is readily available. My project had no choice if I was to drive after dark and it was an easy fix as converting goes.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 01:55 PM
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From what I see on Macs, the replacement switch sold is a 1961 and they state you have to buy the 1961 light switch rod to make it work. Brett, I like the idea of switching ***** to stay original in look. I have also seen the correct part number switch on eBay for $50-$60 and they all mention its for the Falcon.

Doug
 
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Old Jul 14, 2020 | 08:58 PM
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Update on the headlamp switch. As my dad always said, "you live stupid and you die smart". I ordered the new headlamp switch from Macs along with the **** that it says is "required". When they finally arrived I realized the **** does not even fit the headlamp switch. The switch looks identical to my old one.

The old switch

I knew my **** was bad because the plastic head spun when I turned the switch, and thought that could be the issue for not actuating the dome light also. I tried pulling the plastic head off the **** but thought I would break it, so I jambed a small piece of wire between the metal rod and the plastic ****. It cracked the plastic but seems to be holding.


I slipped a small piece of flattened copper wire in the gap between the **** and the arm

It solved the problem so I put the old handle on the new switch. One problem was solved - the front parking lights now come on when I pull the handle out. Never had that before. I can turn the handle to the left and get the "click" to turn on the dome light....but that did not work. I traced the wire from the dome light to the rats nest under the dash and was able to figure out the bullet connecter was not connected. I connected it and have a working dome light. Problem now is the dome light comes on as soon as I pull the light switch out, without turning the **** to the left to turn it on. Its just on. I traced the wire and its terminated into the fuse block as shown in the wiring diagram I have. Any ideas what to do next?
 

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Old Jul 1, 2021 | 08:08 AM
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Update - Success

So I finally got back to troubleshooting my dome light a few days ago. It took a friend and I troubleshooting with a multimeter but we figured out the fuse block had been wired wrong by a PO. By tracing down all the wires (most original), we found the PO had crossed wires and spliced wires together. Solved the dome light and now my instrument panel lights dim as per the owners manual. The hardest part on this is just unhooking the fuse block as cramming yourself under the dash is tough with the bench seat in.

Doug
 
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Old Jul 1, 2021 | 04:33 PM
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Glad you got it cyphered. It is very hard to access if you have many years on yourself!
 
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Old Jul 2, 2021 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug O
So I finally got back to troubleshooting my dome light a few days ago. It took a friend and I troubleshooting with a multimeter but we figured out the fuse block had been wired wrong by a PO. By tracing down all the wires (most original), we found the PO had crossed wires and spliced wires together. Solved the dome light and now my instrument panel lights dim as per the owners manual. The hardest part on this is just unhooking the fuse block as cramming yourself under the dash is tough with the bench seat in.

Doug
Some of Previous Owner work on these trucks can be hard to understand at best and unhelpful most the time... Glad your fixed!
 
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