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The solutions:
1. Stick on a new one with JBweld, gasket maker or similar
2. Reinstall the right way (this how-to)
My history: I've had this happen to both SD's I've owned - both on the drivers side actually come to think of it. My '04 only took 6 years after going through a car wash and my 2000 20 years while I was using a chamois to dry the truck after a wash. Just doinked off like it was barely attached, hit gravel and split in 2.
The Texas heat isn't too forgiving of the OEM design and the '04 was black which may have had something to do with the earlier demise. When the '04 molding popped off and was later recovered in the bed of the truck, I used the JBweld method where it held for another year or 2 and then later popped off again into the bed after another drive thru car wash. I sold that truck before ever re-attempting the correct repair.
Now, my 2000 challenged me to pick up where I left off with the '04. But, I am a wiser (okay, older), more equipped DIY'er.
The preparation: I had trouble finding a detailed write up or video for our trucks. I've heard dropping the headliner was necessary to get to the bolts from in the cab. Maybe this is true for some models, but for my crew cab, it was not.
The PN# on the broken piece was F81B25517A73. Passenger side is a different PN.
I searched for this and came up with nothing. But in my research, found that there is 2 different trim piece styles for the crew cabs. Even different styles for the other cab variations. Driver and passenger sides are also different. Of the 2 different crew cab designs: one is designed for the rubber window seal that goes around the outside rear glass and one for the newer models that did not have the outside glass gasket around the perimeter. For my case, I had the earlier design. This design had PN# YC3Z-2551729-PTM. The middle numbers matched, and I took the chance of ordering through Amazon.
They are primed but need painting. Another option is an ebay seller who claims their part is a superior design to OEM with 3M tape and better reinforcement on the mounting studs. It's cheaper and already painted to match. They have multiple colors.
Not seeing any reviews, I was hesitant on this product. At the time, I thought I was going to have to drop the head liner and I didnt want to have to do the job twice if this product did not meet my expectations. I also did not want to chance a leak due to inferior parts. I played it safe and went OEM.
When the part arrived, I did a test fit. The bolt pattern did not seem to line up with the holes. It was slightly off from an easy drop in replacement. I was discouraged, thinking I ordered the wrong trim piece. However, on the under side was PN# F81B25517A73. I'll be darned if it didnt match exactly what broke off. No where on the piece was PN# YC3Z-2551729-PTM like everywhere on the web and the dang box. Why the confusion in different PNs beats me. But, I was convinced this was the right piece now and it was. It just takes a bit of flex once the first stud is dropped in.
So, now the part you're here for. The process:
First, the seat belt upper mount has to come off.
Pop the plastic cover up
and a T50 is exposed.
once removed, set to the side and pop the long oval piece out. It pops out pretty easily.
Next, the pillar trim pops out. Same metal retainers as found throughout the interior trim of the truck. Just be easy. There is also 1 plastic push pin up high closest to the rear glass.
Once pulled back enough to gain access, you'll see the 2 nuts in question. They're 9mm. An extension is your friend here. Don't drop them. The OEM piece does not include them. Although, the ebay part does appear to. Mine were finger loose.
Once removed, clean the area to prepare to reinstall the new trim. There appeared to be rtv gasket residue around the outside as well as inside the nuts. I applied new rtv gasket maker to these areas to ensure a water seal. Install the lower trim behind the rear glass seal, insert the lower stud in and flex the upper piece toward the top hole.
Now to fasten the nuts from inside the cab. I put light grease around the nut in the socket for a better grasp to avoid it falling out behind the panel. Be careful not to over tighten. I hear they're easy to strip. I just snugged mine up a smidge beyond finger tight since they were finger loose when removed and still kept a rain seal.
Reverse the process to button up the interior trim and enjoy the restored appearance.
Hindsight, the job is super easy and I think trialing the ebay painted product would have been worth the risk. If someone has good experience with it, please share with us. If the passenger side goes or this side goes again, I think I may give it a shot.
I echo the thoughts from David and have sent reps to @CousinCarl for a job well done!
CousinCarl, thanks for taking the time to document this task for others to learn from and follow for years to come. I have included your "how to" in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder under the header "Exterior" header.
Carl, thanks for this write up as I have experienced this same issue on my ‘02 Lariat crew cab. Don’t think I have seen any leaks so far. May give that eBay guy a try.
Thanks again,
Larry
The solutions:
1. Stick on a new one with JBweld, gasket maker or similar
2. Reinstall the right way (this how-to)
My history: I've had this happen to both SD's I've owned - both on the drivers side actually come to think of it. My '04 only took 6 years after going through a car wash and my 2000 20 years while I was using a chamois to dry the truck after a wash. Just doinked off like it was barely attached, hit gravel and split in 2.
The Texas heat isn't too forgiving of the OEM design and the '04 was black which may have had something to do with the earlier demise. When the '04 molding popped off and was later recovered in the bed of the truck, I used the JBweld method where it held for another year or 2 and then later popped off again into the bed after another drive thru car wash. I sold that truck before ever re-attempting the correct repair.
Now, my 2000 challenged me to pick up where I left off with the '04. But, I am a wiser (okay, older), more equipped DIY'er.
The preparation: I had trouble finding a detailed write up or video for our trucks. I've heard dropping the headliner was necessary to get to the bolts from in the cab. Maybe this is true for some models, but for my crew cab, it was not.
The PN# on the broken piece was F81B25517A73. Passenger side is a different PN.
I searched for this and came up with nothing. But in my research, found that there is 2 different trim piece styles for the crew cabs. Even different styles for the other cab variations. Driver and passenger sides are also different. Of the 2 different crew cab designs: one is designed for the rubber window seal that goes around the outside rear glass and one for the newer models that did not have the outside glass gasket around the perimeter. For my case, I had the earlier design. This design had PN# YC3Z-2551729-PTM. The middle numbers matched, and I took the chance of ordering through Amazon.
They are primed but need painting. Another option is an ebay seller who claims their part is a superior design to OEM with 3M tape and better reinforcement on the mounting studs. It's cheaper and already painted to match. They have multiple colors.
Not seeing any reviews, I was hesitant on this product. At the time, I thought I was going to have to drop the head liner and I didnt want to have to do the job twice if this product did not meet my expectations. I also did not want to chance a leak due to inferior parts. I played it safe and went OEM.
When the part arrived, I did a test fit. The bolt pattern did not seem to line up with the holes. It was slightly off from an easy drop in replacement. I was discouraged, thinking I ordered the wrong trim piece. However, on the under side was PN# F81B25517A73. I'll be darned if it didnt match exactly what broke off. No where on the piece was PN# YC3Z-2551729-PTM like everywhere on the web and the dang box. Why the confusion in different PNs beats me. But, I was convinced this was the right piece now and it was. It just takes a bit of flex once the first stud is dropped in.
So, now the part you're here for. The process:
First, the seat belt upper mount has to come off.
Pop the plastic cover up
and a T50 is exposed.
once removed, set to the side and pop the long oval piece out. It pops out pretty easily.
Next, the pillar trim pops out. Same metal retainers as found throughout the interior trim of the truck. Just be easy. There is also 1 plastic push pin up high closest to the rear glass.
Once pulled back enough to gain access, you'll see the 2 nuts in question. They're 9mm. An extension is your friend here. Don't drop them. The OEM piece does not include them. Although, the ebay part does appear to. Mine were finger loose.
Once removed, clean the area to reinstall the new trim. Install the lower trim behind the rear glass seal, insert the lower stud in and flex the upper piece toward the top hole. I put light grease around the nut in the socket for a better grasp to avoid it falling out behind the panel. Be careful not to over tighten. I hear they're easy to strip. I just snugged mine up slightly since the others were finger loose and still kept a rain seal.
Reverse the process to button up the interior trim and enjoy the restored appearance.
Hindsight, the job is super easy and I think trialing the ebay painted product would have been worth the risk. If someone has good experience with it, please share with us. If the passenger side goes or this side goes again, I think I may give it a shot.
Thank you sir. I actually need to order these for my SC.
Well, i took a gamble on that eBay seller and got the kit for both sides as both of mine are missing. When they arrive I will post up how they work to let everyone know.
Thanks again to everyone for their info.
Well, i took a gamble on that eBay seller and got the kit for both sides as both of mine are missing. When they arrive I will post up how they work to let everyone know.
Thanks again to everyone for their info.
Hopefully you ordered the right ones. I was about to buy them as well when I figured out that there are different ones for the different trucks. Mine is XLT 7.3 SC, but yet the Lariat and XL SC are different. Makes no sense to me, but they do have a different part number as well. But I did find them on ebay as well. Let us now how is goes. Thank you.
Hopefully you ordered the right ones. I was about to buy them as well when I figured out that there are different ones for the different trucks. Mine is XLT 7.3 SC, but yet the Lariat and XL SC are different. Make no sense to me, but they do have a different part number as well. But I did find them on ebay as well. Let us now how is goes. Thank you.
@countrycar , would you mind posting the part number for the XLT SC?
eBay and internet links are good too, but over time they tend to change where the part number will be a good reference for many years.
Thanks for informing us they were different too, I was not aware of this. I was lucky enough to repair one of mine that broke, but it may need to be replaced one day.
Ford 99-04 XLT Reg & Crew Cab Only F250 thru F550
OEM 1999-2007 Ford F250 F350 F450 Super Duty Left Driver Side Roof Molding OEM NEWYC3Z-2551729-PTM
OEM 1999-2007 Ford F250 F350 F450 Super Duty Right Hand Side Roof Molding OEM NEWYC3Z-2551728-PTM https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2004-F....c100005.m1851
Hopefully, as people report back with their results, we'll have more clarity what works with each application.
I also want to bring attention to an edit in the how-to. I forgot (today's rain reminded me) I added a little black RTV gasket maker inside and around the nuts and around the perimeter of the outside holes to ensure a water-tight seal. There was some remnants of gasket material during removal in these areas. Relying on just the foam discs to keep water out didn't provide me with much confidence.
Here’s a couple pics of one roof molding on my ‘02 F250,CC, Lariat. Maybe this will help resolve some questions regarding part numbers for various truck models.
now that you mention it, i have the same issue on my extended cab. I also have to get the passenger rear door to open. I already fixed the driver side door and the the other one broke.
Cousin Carl,
You said that the part came unpainted. What did you do about painting the part 'white'? My truck is 'Gold'. I was at an O'Reilly and they mix pain and put into spray cans (25.00) and I thought I would go this route. Did you put a clear coat on it also?
Thank-you for the write up, great job and pictures.
(short update: just called the local Ford Dealer and they will have this part to me tomorrow, total cost 39.43 + tax. If I went with TascaParts, the part would be 25.61 +shipping. NO, I do not usually like to go to a Dealer, but this local Dealer is easy to work with. The Part Number that he wanted was the number 'On The Box' as shown by Cousin Carl
Part# YC3Z-2551729-PTM. The Ford parts man said that the number on the part (F81B-255 17A73) is just a stamping number. He was glad I had the 'Box Number'.)
Thanks again. Now to research painting the part. Suggestions?
04-26-2020, 12:43 PM
