Anyone on here done a Holley Terminator install on their trucks?

I found out about them last night as being the only fuel injection conversion out there that has a OE style kick down rod for use with a C4/C6 kick down rod.

Seriously contemplating the conversion but wondering what people think about them that have used them?

Also wondering if people that installed them think it was worth the extra money to convert from carb to Fuel Injection?

I currently have all the fuel stuff I need but to do this conversion would require a new sender, pressure regulator, fuel pump, fuel hose, and fuel tank. So for me its a big ticket item considering I already have a new 600cfm carb, new OE 302 mechanical fuel pump, and a NOS sending unit. Might also have to get a different carb spacer as the divided spacer I have wont work since the IAC is situated right where the divider is located at.

 

I haven't installed mine yet (99 f body car with 6.0 lsx 4l80e conversion from v6/T5)(mine is the Terminator x max version)

But I Got the max version (1600 worth) because i needed the trans controller and controller for the electronic throttle body for the application i have. And since I was doing stock/ camshaft/boost in stages it saved me a lot of tuning hassles and cost.

Quality looks very good and playing around with the software (can download it free to try out) looks very straight forward. Just got to stand back and see if that is the system you need. They are mainly for MPI not TBI on the X version but the regular one has TBI. Then you still have to have a electric pump to supply the right amount of psi and volume. Plus the fuel lines to support it. So the cost can go up even more if you don't have that already.

 

Ive installed quite a few at work, mainly the holley snipers not the sniper stealth or the terminator and I hear the Terminator X is a fairly new release that is priced at $1,500 compared to the standard Terminator that was priced out at $2,175.

This is the Terminator X that is a fairly new release that is a stand alone fuel injection kit.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...parts/550-1003

With that said I priced out my setup with the Sniper Stealth and the Terminator X Stealth, price for a complete install on my carbed '82 F150 would be $1,770.69 for the Sniper Stealth and $2,120.60 for the Termiantor X Stealth.

What I have for the setup is as follows.

x1 Russell Performance Fuel Rail Adapter - Black - 5/16" to -6 AN
x3 Russell Performance Fuel Rail Adapter - Black - 3/8" to -6 AN
x1 Summit Racing Fuel Rail Adapter - Black - 3/8" Male quick disconnect to -6 AN
x6 Earls Performance VaporGuard Hose ends - Black - 3/8" hose barb to -6 AN
x1 Russell ProClassic Fuel Pressure Take off Fitting - Black - -6 AN 1/8" NPT port
x1 Russell Analog Fuel Pressure Gauge 0 - 100 PSI - 1/8" NPT
x1 Earls Performance VaporGuard hose end - black - 3/8" hose barb to -6 AN 45*
x1 AC Delco 2000-2004 Corvette Fuel Filter/Pressure regulator (60 psi regulator built in and a easy to source local filter vs a aftermarket replaceable element filter)
x1 Earls EFI VaporGuard Hose 3/8" x 20ft
x1 Spectra Premium 1985 F150 16.5 gallon Fuel tank
x1 Spectra Premium 1985 F150 16.5 gallon sending unit (will source a NOS Motorcraft unit instead but used this one for pricing)
x1 Standard fuel pump connector for 1985 F150
x2 Earls Vapor Guard Hose Clamps - 3/8" - box of 5
x1 Walbro Electric in tank fuel pump 67 gph @ 70 psi (foxbody mustang listed pump)

Then the big ticket item is the fuel injection, I still need to decide between the Holley Sniper Stealth Gold and the Holley Terminator X Stealth Gold. The price difference is only $350 which makes either option viable for me. I just have to decide if the Terminator X would provide better performance over the Sniper if not then I will go the cheaper route.

If you haven't used one yourself before the Corvette fuel filters are amazing, they are a 3/8" quick disconnect barb with a ground strap to the mounting tab with a internal 60 psi pressure regulator. Mount it back by the fuel tank run a hose from the pump to the filter run the return from the filter back to the tank then run one line up to the front. For the traditional sniper you cant do this as it has a pressure regulator built into the unit. But for systems without a pressure regulator it is a good unit and I actually use them on LS conversions at work as well as on the 5.0 coyote swap I did on a '82 F150. Its how I know to use a '85 year model fuel tank and sender for a bolt in fit for my '82. 86 will work also as well as the sender. 87 tank will fit but the sender has a change in ohms which will make your OE gauge read incorrectly. We made that mistake on the 5.0 coyote swap as we couldn't source a 85-86 sender locally but they had a 87 and we didn't think there was a difference but there ended up being one.

Only thing I will do different if I end up doing this is I will use a vacuum cap to cap off my OE fuel pump supply line and block off the mechanical fuel pump. That way if I ever needed to swap back to a carb all I would have to do is take the OE fuel tank and throw it back in with the OE sender and im good to go. I even planned on making an adapter plug so I wont have to cut my OE sending unit plug. Going to take the junk aftermarket sender in my truck now and cut out the plastic connector for the sending unit and solder my wires to the back side of it to make my connection to the new 4 pin EFI connector.

On a customers vehicle sure I will snip it and solder the wires in. For myself how ever I prefer to keep the ability to revert any changes I made in the off chance something gives me trouble and I decide to remove the changes.

 

Didn't figure this in to my pricing but think I might need to do the 3G alternator upgrade while I am at it. Not sure if the OE 1G alternator would be enough to run fuel injection along with my CB, CB amp, Silverstar composite headlights, and my dual 100w KC driving lights.

I did see I could pick up a reman 70A 1G alternator which is similar to the one on my '78 Mercury. But for the cost of $75 with core I probably be better off to just get a 3G 90A alternator and plumb it in. Not like I would need to do much wiring since I wont have to run a choke wire.

 

On your alternator for the 3G upgrade look for a 98 to 04 mustang v6.Those have the right housing to bolt right into a G1 alternator space. I usually grab them and the wiring for under 30 bucks at the junk yard.

 

I need to double check I think I need to get mine from a Taurus as I need the larger ear spacing for the V belt setup. But I can never remember and the information is a bit hard to find. Fixing to head to bed myself right now so I will have to do some digging in my notes and online again to see which one I need to grab from.

Wiring wise all I need would be just the pig tail and the fuse, the charge wire I can make myself I actually got some scrap cable from work from when I cut down a battery cable on a customers vehicle that put a 12ft long cable that only needed to be 7 inches lol. This cable is on the smaller side and I might use it. Or I could just grab something different I am not sure. But I have to weigh my options cause a lot of the alternators on rockauto are pretty cheap. Id also check the junkyard here but it seems when I grabbed the 2G pigtail for my dads '89 E150 back in the early 2000`s after it caught fire the only junkyard that had the pigtail locally on hand wanted damn $80 for it. So I don't know if the wiring for a 3G alternator would be cheap locally, I remember the guy saying to me to justify the cost that the old wiring from cars that are good they carry a premium.

 

I think I would look for a 95 amp version of the 3g. The 130 amp is just too big, and will always have a tendency to have the belt squeal problem with a single v-belt.

 

That's my plan. I would run a 95A 3G, it should be more than enough for my truck even with my aftermarket circuits. I just have to be careful if I run a bed bar with auxiliary lights as I believe running four more 100w lights would put me close to 70 amps total draw. I know it would be too much for my 1G for sure.

 

Well from the looking I did at work today since its dead slow it appears I might have found a 8 1/4" ear spacing 3G rated at 95A.

I saw it said numerous times the 7.5L trucks had the 8 1/4" ear spacing and the 95A was a lot more common on trucks. Did some browsing on rockauto and found that a '97 F250 with a 7.5L engine has a listing for a 95A 3G alternator. I was able to use the interchange list for that part to find one listed for a 92 Aerostar with a 3.0L without a pulley for less money. Then I found from DB Electrical the same style alternator with pulley for $68 with free shipping. Not sure if it is the right 8 1/4" ear spacing and I cant inquire via email as it keeps telling me the capatcha is not correct even though I click the "im not a robot". States on their phone line that they are backed up and I don't know how long I would sit on hold just to ask them a question they probably don't know.

Based off the photos ive seen it appears the 8 1/4" 3G alternators have a recessed in the mounting ears but what has me concerned on the smaller case 95A variant is that the larger case 130A 3G looks like the recess is a lot larger when it should in theory be smaller with the nearly 1" larger case. Im kind of afraid this alternator I found here is the 7" ear to ear spacing and that all 95A 3G`s had this recessing.