3-point seat belts in '66 F-100
#1
#3
It was on my list but didn't get done. Now I hesitate to remove the headliner because it might not survive another re&re.
It seemed to me to be pretty simple. I planned to drill a hole in the sheet metal (behind your left shoulder) and weld on the appropriate nut. Reinforce the sheet metal too, perhaps with the identical pieces from a donor truck. Then cut the headliner as necessary and bolt on the Econoline assembly.
Eric
It seemed to me to be pretty simple. I planned to drill a hole in the sheet metal (behind your left shoulder) and weld on the appropriate nut. Reinforce the sheet metal too, perhaps with the identical pieces from a donor truck. Then cut the headliner as necessary and bolt on the Econoline assembly.
Eric
#5
The floor mounting should be pretty straight forward. As for the shoulder harness, you can remove the curved panel next to the door jamb. Reinforce it with some 1/4" steel and weld the panel back. I personally have not doe this as I detest shoulder belts. I did have lap belts in my truck before the teardown.
#6
I did it. All I did was sit in the truck and hold the upper mount up where I knew it would be comfortable and I marked where the hole would need to be drilled. Once I drilled out the hole I made a backing plate that would sit behind this part of the headliner and installed the mount. Be sure to make the backing plate as big as possible to make the contact point bigger. Then I just bolted it up. Kind of a pain to get in behind this plate but it works and I feel that it will hold up to a certain extent in a collision. Better than a lap belt by far.
#7
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#8
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Take a piece of 1/2 inch angle about 6 inches long, bend it slightly to fit the contour of the door A pillar. Take a piece of 1/8th inch flat stock about 6x6 inches. Contour this plate to roughly match the curved panel. Weld the angle iron to the plate. Drill a 1/2 inch hole in the plate and weld a 1/2 inch national fine nut over the hole. Drill three or four 3/8th inch holes in the A pillar, slide the plate/angle/nut assembly down behind the curved panel, line the nut up with the hole in the curved panel and the angle iron up with the holes drilled in the A pillar. Button hole weld the angle iron/plate to the A pillar. I have used big washers behind the curved panel and fortunately never had to test whether or not it would hold in an accident. The plate welded to the A pillar would hold no doubt! You would want to do this before you paint your truck of course. Julianos sells a nice set of belts and floor mounted retractors for this deal. I got to learn how to post pictures on this site!
#9
I see the rig from Julianos costs about $90. Obviously, no price is too much to pay to keep from flying out of cab in an accident.
But anyone know of a source for the Econoline belt assembly? NOT used -- I'd never recomend using a old belt. But I wonder if the econoline assembly or some other option might be a little cheaper?
Idea's???
But anyone know of a source for the Econoline belt assembly? NOT used -- I'd never recomend using a old belt. But I wonder if the econoline assembly or some other option might be a little cheaper?
Idea's???
#11
Found it!
www.gemstreetrods.com
or
1-800-588-BELT
Located in Covina, CA
3pt retract $56.95
2pt retract $35.95
Hope that helps some!
Bob Nolan
www.gemstreetrods.com
or
1-800-588-BELT
Located in Covina, CA
3pt retract $56.95
2pt retract $35.95
Hope that helps some!
Bob Nolan
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