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my truck averages about the same as your right now but i dont do alot of highway driving. 90% of the time its is hilly back roads plus mine has a 5 star tune. i think the basic maintenance would be a good start but the winter gas isnt going to help. ive lost 1 mpg on my avg since the winter blends have been out.
Yea either way I think my plugs and wires need changed because I know for sure they haven't been replaced in the last 60k but they may never have and I am also planning on adding some gumout/fuel additive. I checked my brakes to see if they were in good condition when I rotated my tires but I guess I never checked to see if they were rubbing so I'll look at that a little closer and I usually go 65 on highway but it seems like I get same mpg going 65 as when I'm going 75. But I'm going to double check the digital read out on truck to see if it matches up when I actually punch in the numbers for mpg
Because I have never bled them and wanted to do it at 50k when I changed all the rear end fluids and I do not want to wait till 75k. And, that's how many miles the truck has on it. I only use the truck for towing now and it bothers me that I have never bled them.
Why do you think you need to bleed them, I looked at the scheduled service on my 2013 recommended service in my manual nowhere does it say to bleed or replace the brake fluid. Yes it can absorb moisture but its a closed system and unless you take the cover off all the time mosture will not get in, the fluid will go down as the pads wear but when you retract the pistons the level goes back up unless you have a leak.
Whenever I bled brakes after an extended time, it always seems like the first pump of fluid is discolored. For a twenty minute job, I like the reassurance that the calipers have clean fluid in them. As previously stated, gives me peace of mind. Why do some people think they have to change synthetic oil sooner than 10 k miles?
Why do you think you need to bleed them, I looked at the scheduled service on my 2013 recommended service in my manual nowhere does it say to bleed or replace the brake fluid. Yes it can absorb moisture but its a closed system and unless you take the cover off all the time mosture will not get in, the fluid will go down as the pads wear but when you retract the pistons the level goes back up unless you have a leak.
Denny
This is not true. I am no expert but the brake system will absorb moisture. Anytime the cap is opened, anytime a caliper is replaced and through microscopic pores in the rubber lines. Moisture causes corrosion and increases the boiling point of the fluid. Brake fluid is the most neglected fluid in an automobile, it should be flushed/replaced every several years. Cars and commuter vehicles are not at as much risk of fluid boiling but in a towing application it is.
Since the OP is the new owner of a used truck and has no idea how many times moisture has been allowed into the system it would be a very good idea to swap out the brake fluid.
This is not true. I am no expert but the brake system will absorb moisture. Anytime the cap is opened, anytime a caliper is replaced and through microscopic pores in the rubber lines. Moisture causes corrosion and increases the boiling point of the fluid. Brake fluid is the most neglected fluid in an automobile, it should be flushed/replaced every several years. Cars and commuter vehicles are not at as much risk of fluid boiling but in a towing application it is.
Since the OP is the new owner of a used truck and has no idea how many times moisture has been allowed into the system it would be a very good idea to swap out the brake fluid.
If the rubber hoses have microscopic hole I'm sure the brake fluid would be leaking out of the them under braking pressure unless the rubber is deteriorated but them you have another problem. Unlike years past when you couldn't see the fluid level you had to remove the cap but now you don't because of the plastic reservoir and if the level is down a little it's just from pad wear. Every time you open the cap to add fluid you introduce more moisture into the system and if you add fluid from a previously opened can you introduce even more moisture because that fluid has been exposed to moist air bepending on wear you live. If you constantly bleed your brakes for piece of mine you may be doing more harm than good because of moisture contamination IMO.
I haven't removed the reservoir cap on any of my work or pleasure trucks or cars or years and numerous pad changes but no caliper changes. Even if I start opening the bleed screw to retract the pistion during a pad change because of the size of the tank it shouldn't need and fluid. I also replace pads at 1/2 to 2/3 wear because I feel when the pads get thin you get more heat transfer to the caliper pistions, I use nothing but semi metallic pads on the old rotors without any problems or any need to turn or replace rotors. The last time I replace rotors was on my F150 that I bought used and the previous owner ran one down to metal on metal before changing the pads.
If the rubber hoses have microscopic hole I'm sure the brake fluid would be leaking out of the them under braking pressure unless the rubber is deteriorated but them you have another problem.
I suppose I can find out for myself by purchasing one of those testers and test the fluid in my master cylinder. I have not removed the cap from mine since it left the factory.
I attempted to find an article that supported never changing the brake fluid and I couldn't find one. However articles that agree a brake fluid flush is recommended as regular preventative maintenance were a dime a dozen. If you have documentation or links to articles that support your theory please share.
I ended up replacing spark plugs wires boots and changing all the fluids in the truck besides differential fluid and I got all new rotors pads and calipers. My brakes were dragging and it helped my mpg by about 1mpg was wondering what else I could do to increase mpg