Fuse Box Wiring Diagram
#1
Fuse Box Wiring Diagram
Does anyone have a diagram or a pic of the backside of the fuse box for a 1966 F100, 2wd, 240, 3 ott??
After rebuilding and installing the steering column, I suddenly have no power to any of the rear lights.
I got to checking the fuse box, and discovered that one of the fuse holders has power going in but, there is no power to the other side, even after installing a jumper.
I have purchased a 6 circuit fuse box to install in the place of the OEM fuse box.
Before I start removing wires I would at least like to know where the wires come from and where they go.
After rebuilding and installing the steering column, I suddenly have no power to any of the rear lights.
I got to checking the fuse box, and discovered that one of the fuse holders has power going in but, there is no power to the other side, even after installing a jumper.
I have purchased a 6 circuit fuse box to install in the place of the OEM fuse box.
Before I start removing wires I would at least like to know where the wires come from and where they go.
#2
Is yours one of those that has the function molded into the housing next to each fuse? Such as "heater/hazard" and "inst. lamp" and words to that effect?
If so it's a little easier to at least trace the inputs. Which would be two in number. One switched (Black w/green stripe if they have remained consistent for all these years) and one constant (might be Yellow, but I'll have to check).
In the meantime, can you post up a pic of your particular panel? I don't have a '66 pickup panel, but have pics of Early Bronco panels of various years. I might have a '66, but fairly certain I have at least back to '68.
I'll dig for it later (in the computer that is) but in the meantime if you post up yours those of us that don't have your year truck will know what we're dealing with.
Thanks. Good luck.
Paul
If so it's a little easier to at least trace the inputs. Which would be two in number. One switched (Black w/green stripe if they have remained consistent for all these years) and one constant (might be Yellow, but I'll have to check).
In the meantime, can you post up a pic of your particular panel? I don't have a '66 pickup panel, but have pics of Early Bronco panels of various years. I might have a '66, but fairly certain I have at least back to '68.
I'll dig for it later (in the computer that is) but in the meantime if you post up yours those of us that don't have your year truck will know what we're dealing with.
Thanks. Good luck.
Paul
#3
Is yours one of those that has the function molded into the housing next to each fuse? Such as "heater/hazard" and "inst. lamp" and words to that effect?
If so it's a little easier to at least trace the inputs. Which would be two in number. One switched (Black w/green stripe if they have remained consistent for all these years) and one constant (might be Yellow, but I'll have to check).
In the meantime, can you post up a pic of your particular panel? I don't have a '66 pickup panel, but have pics of Early Bronco panels of various years. I might have a '66, but fairly certain I have at least back to '68.
I'll dig for it later (in the computer that is) but in the meantime if you post up yours those of us that don't have your year truck will know what we're dealing with.
Thanks. Good luck.
Paul
If so it's a little easier to at least trace the inputs. Which would be two in number. One switched (Black w/green stripe if they have remained consistent for all these years) and one constant (might be Yellow, but I'll have to check).
In the meantime, can you post up a pic of your particular panel? I don't have a '66 pickup panel, but have pics of Early Bronco panels of various years. I might have a '66, but fairly certain I have at least back to '68.
I'll dig for it later (in the computer that is) but in the meantime if you post up yours those of us that don't have your year truck will know what we're dealing with.
Thanks. Good luck.
Paul
#4
If you use a test light connect one lead to a good ground. I usually use my jumper cables and go right to the battery negative post. Next I put the pointer on a known good 12 volts to ensure it works. When you probe the outgoing side of the fuse the wire needs to be connected to a load device and the ground for there to be a complete circuit for your test light to show power on.
#5
Fuse Box Wiring Diagram
The 2nd pic is what it looks like. I know it is the original because I know who has owned it since it was new. My uncle drove this truck for his work , then purchased it from his boss (original owner).. It has been in the family since then.
What I really need is a pic of the back side. I have the wiring diagram that you posted a pic of. I just can't get a good look at the backside to see what comes/goes to what.
What I really need is a pic of the back side. I have the wiring diagram that you posted a pic of. I just can't get a good look at the backside to see what comes/goes to what.
#6
I have an issue with this statement. Are you using a test light or a multimeter set to the volt scale? When you jumpered the two connections you "bridged" the gap by creating another path for electricity to flow. If you used a voltmeter you would read 0 volts because you are not measuring "across" any two points. Think of it this way. You have a garden hose in one hand and a nozzle in the other. The tap is on so you "see" the water jump out of the hose toward the nozzle. Once you successfully connect the nozzle to the hose you no longer see the water. The volt meter cannot see it either.
If you use a test light connect one lead to a good ground. I usually use my jumper cables and go right to the battery negative post. Next I put the pointer on a known good 12 volts to ensure it works. When you probe the outgoing side of the fuse the wire needs to be connected to a load device and the ground for there to be a complete circuit for your test light to show power on.
If you use a test light connect one lead to a good ground. I usually use my jumper cables and go right to the battery negative post. Next I put the pointer on a known good 12 volts to ensure it works. When you probe the outgoing side of the fuse the wire needs to be connected to a load device and the ground for there to be a complete circuit for your test light to show power on.
When I jumpered the connection nothing had been disconnected from either the power in or power out side (except for the fuse). I did thoroughly check, with a test light, and got the results as stated in my first post.
#7
Here's the backside of what I believe (If I remember correctly) to be a '71 Bronco:
From '66 to '77 the Bronco fuse panels remained essentially the same (same shape, size, number, location and rating of fuses) but had a few part number changes and wording changes on the front.
One notable change through the years was the presence of those two accessory taps on the right side in the pic. Some years had them, then they went away.
But the functions remained identical throughout, with some being powered up all the time (Black w/yellow wire), some being switched by the key (Black w/green wire) and at least one being switched any time the headlight switch rheostat was turned all the way to the click (Blue w/red wire).
Basically just two buss-bars to connect the two types of circuits together, with the small one for the dash lamps being on it's own circuit without a buss-bar.
Hope that can help, even if it's not a '66 pickup panel.
Paul
From '66 to '77 the Bronco fuse panels remained essentially the same (same shape, size, number, location and rating of fuses) but had a few part number changes and wording changes on the front.
One notable change through the years was the presence of those two accessory taps on the right side in the pic. Some years had them, then they went away.
But the functions remained identical throughout, with some being powered up all the time (Black w/yellow wire), some being switched by the key (Black w/green wire) and at least one being switched any time the headlight switch rheostat was turned all the way to the click (Blue w/red wire).
Basically just two buss-bars to connect the two types of circuits together, with the small one for the dash lamps being on it's own circuit without a buss-bar.
Hope that can help, even if it's not a '66 pickup panel.
Paul
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#8
Here's the backside of what I believe (If I remember correctly) to be a '71 Bronco:
From '66 to '77 the Bronco fuse panels remained essentially the same (same shape, size, number, location and rating of fuses) but had a few part number changes and wording changes on the front.
One notable change through the years was the presence of those two accessory taps on the right side in the pic. Some years had them, then they went away.
But the functions remained identical throughout, with some being powered up all the time (Black w/yellow wire), some being switched by the key (Black w/green wire) and at least one being switched any time the headlight switch rheostat was turned all the way to the click (Blue w/red wire).
Basically just two buss-bars to connect the two types of circuits together, with the small one for the dash lamps being on it's own circuit without a buss-bar.
Hope that can help, even if it's not a '66 pickup panel.
Paul
From '66 to '77 the Bronco fuse panels remained essentially the same (same shape, size, number, location and rating of fuses) but had a few part number changes and wording changes on the front.
One notable change through the years was the presence of those two accessory taps on the right side in the pic. Some years had them, then they went away.
But the functions remained identical throughout, with some being powered up all the time (Black w/yellow wire), some being switched by the key (Black w/green wire) and at least one being switched any time the headlight switch rheostat was turned all the way to the click (Blue w/red wire).
Basically just two buss-bars to connect the two types of circuits together, with the small one for the dash lamps being on it's own circuit without a buss-bar.
Hope that can help, even if it's not a '66 pickup panel.
Paul
Thanks. Now at least I have an idea of what the back side really looks like.
#10
Great close-ups. And by the way SjoDon, those fuse panels are actually in very good shape for their age.
Lots of dirt on most, but you should see some of them that look like they've been liberally dipped in rust!
Hopefully yours is in decent shape, but since you're replacing it anyway I guess it's not as important.
Going to the newer ATC/ATO (or whatever they're called) type fuses is a real upgrade. Won't look original anymore, but should work better for longer.
Please post up pictures of what you end up doing to yours. Before and after shots always appreciated!
Paul
Lots of dirt on most, but you should see some of them that look like they've been liberally dipped in rust!
Hopefully yours is in decent shape, but since you're replacing it anyway I guess it's not as important.
Going to the newer ATC/ATO (or whatever they're called) type fuses is a real upgrade. Won't look original anymore, but should work better for longer.
Please post up pictures of what you end up doing to yours. Before and after shots always appreciated!
Paul
#11
Great close-ups. And by the way SjoDon, those fuse panels are actually in very good shape for their age.
Lots of dirt on most, but you should see some of them that look like they've been liberally dipped in rust!
Hopefully yours is in decent shape, but since you're replacing it anyway I guess it's not as important.
Going to the newer ATC/ATO (or whatever they're called) type fuses is a real upgrade. Won't look original anymore, but should work better for longer.
Please post up pictures of what you end up doing to yours. Before and after shots always appreciated!
Paul
Lots of dirt on most, but you should see some of them that look like they've been liberally dipped in rust!
Hopefully yours is in decent shape, but since you're replacing it anyway I guess it's not as important.
Going to the newer ATC/ATO (or whatever they're called) type fuses is a real upgrade. Won't look original anymore, but should work better for longer.
Please post up pictures of what you end up doing to yours. Before and after shots always appreciated!
Paul
#12
#13
Oops, I see you don't have your PM box set up. You can e-mail me at paulb@wildhorses4x4.com and we can communicate that way. Nothing "wrong" with posting up phone numbers here on the forums of course, but you know the men in black suits and tin-foil hats are watching us!
If you have pictures on your phone, or computer that you can e-mail, that can work well. Otherwise texting is fine too.
Paul
If you have pictures on your phone, or computer that you can e-mail, that can work well. Otherwise texting is fine too.
Paul
#14
Fuse Box Wiring Diagram
I have been looking at and trying to figure out why there are no lights on the back half of the truck.
I read somewhere that there is a fuse in the headlight switch. I pulled the switch (D3ZB-11654-AA) that I replaced the original with. I see no where a fuse could possibly be without drilling out the rivets that hold the switch frame/cover on the switch. Am I missing something??
Also, what year switch allowed the front parking lights to come on/stay on when the headlights are on?? If it can be swapped out without any mods, I would like to go that route.
I read somewhere that there is a fuse in the headlight switch. I pulled the switch (D3ZB-11654-AA) that I replaced the original with. I see no where a fuse could possibly be without drilling out the rivets that hold the switch frame/cover on the switch. Am I missing something??
Also, what year switch allowed the front parking lights to come on/stay on when the headlights are on?? If it can be swapped out without any mods, I would like to go that route.
#15
The fuse you're thinking about was probably on the original switch as an external glass fuse. Most replacements after a certain year were probably made to the newer specification which includes an internal circuit-breaker. Self-resetting type.
Approx. 1968 was when it was mandated that the running/parking/marker lights stayed on with the headlights.
If your main connector and switch follow the usual routine though, there is an additional blade contact on the switch and a matching blank spot in the connector. You find the running/parking light wire, move it to the other location and voilá! Parking lights on with headlights.
Paul
Approx. 1968 was when it was mandated that the running/parking/marker lights stayed on with the headlights.
If your main connector and switch follow the usual routine though, there is an additional blade contact on the switch and a matching blank spot in the connector. You find the running/parking light wire, move it to the other location and voilá! Parking lights on with headlights.
Paul