Eric - always good to consider that the vehicle lives in the real world, not an imaginary one where good fuel is available at every corner.

My FE runs around 10.5 to 1 compression and is happy with with pump premium. Here on Vancouver Island I can get Chevron 93 which is pure gasoline. In Calgary I had to accept some methanol to get 94 octane. Of course, it gets rather poor fuel economy, especially given the constant temptation to hit the throttle.

 

I'm doing an engine swap now. FEs are really expensive to build to 400hp, Could easily spend $10k on a performance build, not including the transmission. I also suggest a 351W with AL heads.

 

I don't agree. It gets pricey if you want to go above 500hp, but I have a buddy with a 390 that is easily over 400hp and he built it all with junk yard parts. A lot of porting and polishing, but non a lot of $$ went into his build.

 

For comparison sake, I think it's helpful to include info when giving a price tag...like parts selection and rpm of peak power. Definitely easy to get $10k wrapped up into an FE but it's worth knowing that will build a really nice specimen...arguably better than a factory FE and include a dyno session.

Also worth noting a 400 hp 390 will give more grunt in the normal street use rpm range than a 351 due to the difference in displacement.

I think I mentioned earlier that I like FE's the best though a small block ford is an easier path to over drive stick or auto trannies.

 

Not wanting to be argumentative, but you can spend $10k on a 302. The idea that FE stood for effing expensive is really not that true anymore. A set of aluminium heads, intake, valves, pistons, and pushrods for an FE are no more expensive than a 351 or a 302. It used to be the case, but there are a lot of parts out there now. Once you move past porting original heads and intake you start to hear the cash register chime.

The point is that with a 390 400 hp is within reach. A good valve job, and a suitable cam and you are on your way. Headers and good porting are the key.

 

Yep, I think we're on the same page here. Gotta compare equivalent parts and see what you're getting in order to compare prices of one engine family to another engine family. For $10K I'd hope to have included goodies like a roller cam and modern piston ring pack.

I also think it's helpful to compare power bands and not just peak horsepower when talking price comparison as well. A 400 hp 390 will produce more torque and have its peak torque at a lower rpm than a 400 hp 302 or 351. For a pickup, I like the feeling of "low end grunt". As far as power goes, a properly built 351 or 352 will be plenty spirited in a relatively light F100. A properly built 390 will really make the tires spin :-)

 

Some very helpful words of wisdom. As I said, Im knew to Fords, so Im learning the ins and outs.

So, lets change the game a little then. Im never going to have $10k to spend on an engine. Maybe the whole truck, but never just an engine. Im already over budget on getting it running, but it does run now. Still needs some work, but itll go.

So, lets say I get a good deal on one of the engines listed by some of the posters above...390FE, 351, 302 H.O....Conventional V8. Take said used engine, clean it up, and bolt on parts. Cam ( might not be a bolt-on, but necessary),rockers, heads, intake, fuel (Im not sure if it would be carb or FI) and exhaust. I dont want to port heads, or send the engine to a shop, and no turbo or nitrous. It should still be possible to get 350+ hp, right?

 

If 10K is the whole budget for the truck, may be best to fix everything else/modify as you see fit and leave the engine and transmission until last...You said it ran as it is now with the old inline 6. A decent V8 with a manual 5-6 speed as you mentioned will break your budget. I have an excel sheet with everything I want to do to mine which is listed in proprietary order with prices next to each item. I'd start with that and layout what has to happen versus what you wish to see done first. We all want that loud V8, but what about brakes, tires, suspension, electrical, radio.....

 

Uh, where are you going to find a good used engine? The last FE used was in 1976. Wasn't the 302 used until 1998, and the 351W until 1998? Do it right the first time, and put in a rebuilt to start with. Why have to muck it up pulling it 6 months after you just installed the engine. Why go through the hassle.

 

Good point here.
It's easy to make a big peak hp number with a snotty cam, but the combo may have drawbacks like poor low end and no vacuum for brakes. I'm building a 466 for a heavy 4x4, which will make only 425hp, but it will make 550ftlbs at a relatively low rpm. For the same money and basically only different cam it could make 500+, but would be a poor fit for my application. And it will have a little nitrous to get to 500/700

2x
A worn out short block isn't going to make the expected power after spending a pile of money and time on it. But it will go down the road just fine. Depends on the goal.

OP,
Yes I think you can find a decent core engine, inspect it, determine if it is suitable and buy the right parts for it to get 350hp. AL heads will make the biggest difference and will need less cam for better manners.

 

Here is an opportunity. I know absolutely nothing about the seller or the engine/tranny. With that said, the FEpower.net forum is the best forum I've found regarding the FE engine.

Rebuilt 352 and rebuilt cruise-o-matic

 

BOOM! I was going to post something else and then saw this. That is good for your budget.

IMHO, having blown a 4 cam and blown a SBF 302, to get anything like the power you are talking will be way more than this. Way more... If you want to stick with Ford, this is what I would do.

If you want more power cheap, get a 5.3 LS and tranny from a mid 2000s Chebby and let it buck. 330hp (keeping fuel injection and computer) and you can find them all day for $800 (engine only) with a 100k miles and a lot of life left in them. I would not mix brands (just me), but those LS motors are dead reliable, take a licking and are cheap to buy and set up. MAP sensor only, no MAF...

 

Thats a good deal on that 352. Im not in a position to take advantage yet, but that would be sort of what Im after. Im also not above a crate motor (blueprint sells 300+ hp 302 long blocks for about $3500), but that would get expensive fast. I would need the engine, but also accessories, and all the extras. That was my reasoning behind a used motor to start off with. And I would go through it. Maybe even have a shop put a re-fresh or mild rebuild on it. Im not going to buy a 30 year old engine, bolt on a bunch of parts and send it. I guess maybe thats the impression I gave. Sorry. I would put the used engine/trans in as is and drive it for awhile, until the budget allowed me to go through it.

If I was just worried about budget or horsepower, I would do the 5.3/ebay turbo. I have a friend at work doing this to a suburban, and its super easy and cheap. Plus he has the tuner and is learning how to do it now. I just cant seem to make myself want a 5.3 in a this truck. Maybe itll turn into that, but right now I just want a little bit more power, and a rumbly V8. Im just now getting the truck running, so Itll be awhile before I can do this. Im just trying to see what options are available.

 

That is a good plan also, for a few reasons. Many people blow a vehicle apart, buy a bunch of parts, loose interest, and sell at a loss. Keeping a vehicle mostly drivable and upgrading in smaller steps will still allow you to have fun with it. Good luck.

The 352 listed illustrates the cost of doing even a mostly stock rebuilt, on most any platform, $6k. That didn't include upgraded heads, carb/fuel injection, intake, front drive and all the little parts so could get to 8k before it ran.

 

Just went to the local machine shop a second time to talk about refreshing a 1967 352. Keeping it stock as much as possible but willing to do some modern upgrades. Told him I was more interestined in how clean the engine burns the fuel than any horsepower or torque modifications. He said it would probably be $6,500 by the time it was all done. I've got two trucks that run well and was going to pick the best one to rebuild and keep one truck drivable. Since we are doing a build out of a 4X4 conversion from the ground up, it seems a great time to redo the engine.

Talked to my wife and she said she thought it would be fun if we did some of it ourselves. She was interested in learning more about the engine. Now, I'm not an mechanic but feel comfortable with most parts on the truck. Take things to the machine shop when anything techical is needed to be done.

How much of the rebuild could be done ourselves in our own garage? How much would the machine shop have to do?

In the end, what would we save by doing this. I was budgeting more around $2,500 to clean the engine up and have it run and look great. But I guess I wasn't even close.

The machine shop suggested putting on an aluminum intake for another $1,000. But I'd like to keep the stock cast one. He also suggested an electronic fuel injection. That's probably another $1,000. But there again I like the Autolite 2100 that I have. Even the stock points and distributor seem to work just fine.