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This is becoming very frustrating for me I cannot seem to get rid of this code 34 no matter what I do. Ive already installed a brand new EGR valve, replaced the position sensor with a new white one [truck had original white,] replaced the EGR vacuum solenoid, and replaced all the old plastic vacuum lines with new rubber, but again CODE 34! Even left the battery unplugged for 30 minutes
Truck is a 1990 F150 w/302
One thing i did notice is that the EGRs (both old and new) seem to be in a slightly 'open' position (see image) at idle where you can see just a about a quarter inch (or a little less) of the little shaft inside....Is it supposed to be like this or is this the reason i continue to get that code 34?
One thing I can say is that it finally seems to idle normally, 600-700RPM, however it idles a little ruff.. I figure this is also related to my code 34.
I would appreciate anyones input as I do not know what to try next I really need to get this truck SMOGed Reply
Is there any vacuum on the valve at idle? There should not be but if there is that means you have an electrical problem since you have replaced all the other parts of the system. Could either be a short in the wiring between the computer and EVR control solenoid or a fault inside the PCM.
Is there any vacuum on the valve at idle? There should not be but if there is that means you have an electrical problem since you have replaced all the other parts of the system. Could either be a short in the wiring between the computer and EVR control solenoid or a fault inside the PCM.
No, there is no vacuum at idle I checked that... and to be clear, this picture was taken while the truck was off. The EGR looked like this when it was new out of the box, I’m starting to think that it is defective... unless they all look “open” like this
As noted above measure the EVP signal output KOEO then again KOER. You may notice a slight difference in output.
Also be aware many aftermarket EVP sensors have a shaft that is too long. Once you verify the EGR is actually closed KOER and the measured output is too high you can file down the shaft a bit to get the feedback signal in specification.
As noted above measure the EVP signal output KOEO then again KOER. You may notice a slight difference in output.
Also be aware many aftermarket EVP sensors have a shaft that is too long. Once you verify the EGR is actually closed KOER and the measured output is too high you can file down the shaft a bit to get the feedback signal in specification.
I will most likely replace the EVP with a motorcraft EVP before i bother filing down the aftermarket sensor. I intend on testing the one that is already on there today to see what its output is. also planning to apply some pressure by mouth to the EGR to see if i can get it to move down slighty.
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