So I have a ticking sounds that seems to be happening more when it's cold. It kind of works it's way up from really quiet to loud and then just stops. It then repeats the process. It's not loud really, you can only hear it if you're standing outside the truck in the front area of the truck. It's coming from the passenger side somewhere. I took a video but you still have to listen fairly closely to pick it out over the other engine noise. I think the fact that it works it way up in volume before stopping is what makes it hard to hear. I can only hear it at idle, but I'm not sure if that's because I can't hear it in the cab. The truck does have a couple of broken manifold studs, but this seems more like some kind of valve noise to me? Any ideas? It's a 2000 Excursion with 211k

 

That's definitely not an exhaust tick. I can't imagine what could be making that noise. It does sound like valve train. But, could also be timing chain. My V10 with only 60K miles on it developed a bit of a tick from the timing chain, that would happen on cold startup, after sitting for a few weeks. But would go away in a minute or two and not come back.

Could be a timing chain tensioner. Get a mechanic's stethescope and see if you can locate where it's coming from. Or, use a piece of broom handle, dowel, or even just a long screwdriver, and put one end on the bone in front of your ear and stick the other end on different parts of the engine. Valve cover, timing cover, etc.


Maybe it's one of these guys:

 

Haha could be. I will look into it more as time allows, the only reason I was asking was because I found nothing in my searches that described a kind of ticking crescendo like mine. It seems to run just fine so who knows. If it was a timing tensioner as you suggest I assume the noise would be coming from the front area of the engine? Based on my superior sonar location ability it seems to be coming from the cylinder 4 or 5 area.

The v10 uses roller rockers correct? I'm just trying to wrap my head around what could cause this symptom while still only having a very basic understanding of the engine's design.

 

yes, they are roller "followers". And you are totally right - that coming and going is just really weird.

Almost like a drop of oil falls on something, it goes away, and then the oil dissipates, and another drop falls on it.

Maybe it's a roller that, as it rotates, has too much play in it between the bearing and the race, but then as it rotates comes back.

I'd fix it sooner rather than later, whatever it is. The longer you wait, if it is a cam follower, it will wreck the cam if it hasn't already.

 

If it's a follower and you're hearing it, the cam is going to be trashed almost certainly... Though, it should also be getting some misfires on that cylinder. Maybe not enough for CEL since it's coming and going. With 211k miles on it, you might as well consider a partial or full valve train job. Depending on how long you want to keep the Ex.

If you need a cam, not sure if they're as scarce as 3v cams, I'd recommend getting it directly from Ford. Not cheap, but reliable.

 

So I've done a fair bit of research over the past several days to gain a better understanding of the engine design. It seems the 2v engines are far more reliable than the later 3v design. I have found very little info pertaining to the 2v while there is loads and loads of videos and articles about the 3v, kind of sucks because now I'm thinking I need to get rid of my wife's expedition haha! I got a mechanics stethoscope but have not been able to catch the engine making the sound again yet. There has been nothing discernible I can detect with the stethoscope just yet.

After paying better attention I can say for sure it doesn't do it when it's warm, and it doesn't always do it on a cold start either. Based on what I've gathered I'm leading toward the culprit most likely being a lash adjuster. I would imagine if it was a stuck roller it wouldn't come and go, however I could be wrong. I'm going to keep trying to pinpoint it with the stethoscope but it sounds like it's going to be the 3, 4, or 5 cylinder being the culprit and it doesn't look easily accessible either.

My question is what tools are needed to replace a lash adjuster or follower? I've read that the 2v does not require removal of the cam to replace the lash adjuster? I can imagine once the valve cover is off a faulty follower would be fairly easy to spot but what about a lash adjuster?

I also do not know what oil weight is in the engine so the first thing I'm going to do is change the oil. 5w-20 or 5w-30? The sticker on the side of the engine actually calls for 5w-30.

 

There's a special tool for removing the cam followers, you'll need one. The 2V tool and 3V tool are different, so don't get the wrong one. I think you can get them on ebay or amazon from OTC for under $80. Once you get the follower out, the lash adjuster just lifts right out of its' hole.

I want to reiterate, that if one is dead or dying, you should really just do a full job on all of them. It's not a fun job, and if you only replace one, another will fail before long most likely. It's money and work, but if you're keeping that vehicle for the foreseeable future, make the investment now while you have it open.

As for 2V vs 3V, I've not seen a whole lot of issues from the 3V V10s, aside from the oil problem that some fleet trucks had from excessive idling. The 3V V8s though are another story. Lots of issues with the cam phasers on those things.

You do not need to remove the camshaft to replace a cam follower or lash adjuster, just FYI. Be sure to soak your new lash adjuster(s) in oil for several hours beforehand. Get all the air out of it if possible.

edit: formatting

edit 2: Oh and be sure to inspect your cam lobes for any wear while you're in there. Basic info but better said than not

 

I'm still researching what needs to be done exactly but I didn't plan to do only one thing. All followers and lash adjusters seems like the sensible thing to do. At least on the side I have open. I see some thing talking about the valve retainers and being careful not to drop a valve in the cylinder? In the videos of the 3v repairs I watch this didn't seem to be a concern?

 

Still a concern, but the tool has a sort of retainer lip on the bottom. Not sure if they both do, I would imagine so. It's very important to keep an eye on where that tool is placed, because if it's not aligned properly on the valve retainer you'll push it out and could drop the valve.

Working on the 3V was pretty miserable because there's so little room in there with the third valve taking up most of the space where the 2v engines leave room to work.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCN4...Llk98JddJLL51w FordTechMakuloco has some good videos on some of it, not sure if he has a 2v job but might.

 

There is a video of a guy popping out roller followers with a flat long screwdriver. I thinks it’s a 4.6 in a crown Vic.

Rotate motor to tdc on each cylinder and replace.

Inspects the followers and replaces all the lash adjusters.

There is no chance of losing a retainer if the valve spring is always pushing on the retainer/keeper

my understanding of the come a go sound is that the the condition that causes the excessive lash depend on how the lash adjusters fail.

They require oil flow through while operating but it’s not like a balloon. Goes in a big hole and out a small to create pressure.

Debris-foreign object blocking oil flow =lots of ticking

sound immediately on startup, cold bleed down of pressure in adjusters

sound after startup but before full warm I believe a video called it cold bleed down.? Maybe as they heat up to full warm the seals inside expand slightly and hold the oil pressure better

i am not scared of a bad roller follower. Metal on metal sounds/gaps don’t get better with temperature and varying oil flow/viscosity

i am leaning towards replacing mine with the rock auto $3.50 apiece ones and see what happens

 

Hmm, dunno about using a screwdriver. Granted, I've got a 3V, so maybe it's different, but even the Ford factory service manual didn't suggest rotating to each TDC. In mine I believe there was a TDC on each side that was fine for every cylinder but you did have to worry about retainers.

 

Maybe it was piston down in hole valves closed.

There are one or two videos on it.

May tdc there might not be enough clearance for valve to depress slightly to let roller pop out.

 

Ordered all the parts and will be tackling this pretty soon. Any tips to make the job easier? Looks like there's a ton of crap in the way of getting that valve cover off.

 

Removing the valve cover is probably going to be the easiest part.

I removed COPS, plugs, all wiring (moved it aside), and the fuel injectors and rail (for cleaning, not sure if it's required).

You'll need some of that liquid high temp gasket stuff too, there's a couple places that require application of it before you close everything back up or you'll have oil leaks.

 

I think I have some laying around. I assume it will need it applied on the seam where the front cover meets the head?

Happen to have the torque spec and sequence for the valve cover?