Distributor internal wiring question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
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Distributor internal wiring question
This is a probably dumb question but here goes, replacing the distributor in a 272 y block and got an original used one that is in very good shape but I need to verify the wiring inside it. The wire from the condenser goes to the post on the points and another wire from the post on the points goes to the coil. I have another wire that I think is the ground from the distributor housing to the plate that holds the condenser/points. The plate slides back and forward by the movement of the vacuum advance and I think it must be grounded by the 3rd wire. Is this correct or not? It would ground to the plate on the points connection but not to the post with the other 2 wires?? Thanks for any clarification help.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Yes, think that's right.. The wire that goes to the coil (12216) originally had a woven covering and a connector thru the distributor side, two wires. Over time the insulation can deteriorate
and when the advance moves the plate it shorts out and the engine misses . The replacement wire lead is one piece with a rubber boot thru the distributor side. (maybe).
and when the advance moves the plate it shorts out and the engine misses . The replacement wire lead is one piece with a rubber boot thru the distributor side. (maybe).
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
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Mountain Pass
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It didn't say but connecting it and trying it this is what happens: positive sign turns hot when the switch comes on and the neg side of coil energizes that wire feeds back to dist and to the points...no shorts all the wires in dist are connected and tight and no shorts show up. Hit the button start and check neg side of coil and the test light flashes/pulses with the points opening and closing. With test light check the center of coil...the end of the wire going back to the dist and there is nothing, pull wire and check at center of coil and there is nothing coming from the coil. Coil is a new out of the box 40,000 volt coil...apparently something is wrong internally with the coil. Changed the condenser in the dist just to be sure it was ok and with another new condenser no change. Anybody have any different perspective??
Also nothing on the box for coil about ballast yes or no...
Also nothing on the box for coil about ballast yes or no...
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
Take the high voltage wire coming out of the coil out of the distributor cap, and hold it 1/4" from the block, or the coil clamp, or something else that's grounded, while cranking with ignition on. You should see a nice blue spark.
Where did you get the coil? Got a make/model for it?
Where did you get the coil? Got a make/model for it?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,288
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From: NM
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
That's a 1.5 ohm primary winding coil. Measure across the + and - terminals to see this. That's fine for a points & condenser ignition, when used with the additional 1.4 -1.5 ohm factory resistor in the wiring loom. Could also install a ceramic wirewound if the truck doesn't have one.
Points need to see about 3 ohms total in RUN through the primary ignition circuit or the points will burn due to excessive current/voltage. During engine START the external resistor is bypassed temporarily for a hotter spark, to aid in cold weather starting.
Points need to see about 3 ohms total in RUN through the primary ignition circuit or the points will burn due to excessive current/voltage. During engine START the external resistor is bypassed temporarily for a hotter spark, to aid in cold weather starting.
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