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Rusty MI F250 frame, worth coating? (Pics attached)

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Old 07-10-2019, 08:13 PM
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Rusty MI F250 frame, worth coating? (Pics attached)

Hello, I’m new here and just wanted to get some members opinions on frame coating. I just picked up this 2000 F250 with the 6.8l V10, 170k miles. So far it’s been a good truck. I’m wanting to keep it for awhile, but the frame has me a little concerned. It’s from MI and has pitting and flaking on the frame from the salt. I’ve called a few places about doing a rust converter/inhibitor frame/undercoating. I am just wanting your opinions on whether or not it’d be beneficial to spend the money. I want to put on a leveling kit, wheels, and bigger tires, amongst other things. I also plan on doing some welding/reinforcement to the rusty bed. Before I dive in to all of that, will this frame last me long term, or should I look for another F250 and save the undercoating and other expenses for a new toy hauler.

My intentions are to pull a tri-axle trailer and a 1989 F250 I have that has a dump bed and plow. I’ll use the truck/trailer for loads of stone/dirt and picking up/hauling other vehicles. It’s always good to keep a truck around, and I’ve never looked back since owning my first F250, several diesel and gas variants later. Thanks for anyone who cares to help and give their opinion!!!

 

Last edited by zachapman01; 07-10-2019 at 08:19 PM. Reason: More info in title
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:12 PM
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I don't think that frame is shot. I would give it a good cleaning and use something like nh oil undercoat to preserve it. They sell a back in black product that really makes a surface rusted frame look good. I don't work for them, don't get paid for an endorsement, but have had great luck with the product.
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 01:42 AM
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I dont know, above the rear axle there looks to be all kinds of rust through holes
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 04:15 AM
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Spray with a rust converter (tannin acid) and finish with NHOU (New Hempshire Oil Undercoating). Clean as much as possible before hand.
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:00 AM
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Frame is toast!
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperDutyScaler
I dont know, above the rear axle there looks to be all kinds of rust through holes
The only holes are factory drilled. The picture may be deceiving, but there is definitely a good amount of scaling. Here are a few more photos.

and thanks to both the replies reference the New Hampshire oil. I will definitely be looking in to that!

If the frame is toast, maybe I shouldn’t waste more time. Mixed reviews so far... thanks for all who have gave input!
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:19 AM
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Take a hammer for removing welding slag and start pounding point down. See what you find, could be surface rust or cancerous.
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:26 AM
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How are the chassis crossmember, and rivets, bed supports, body, lower radiator support, brake lines you name it? If the chassis looks like that I'm certain the rest are just as bad if not worse
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperDutyScaler
How are the chassis crossmember, and rivets, bed supports, body, lower radiator support, brake lines you name it? If the chassis looks like that I'm certain the rest are just as bad if not worse
Great point sir! Thank you 👍🏽
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 11:42 AM
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It is hard to tell just looking at pictures.

Take a welding hammer or some sort of probe and start poking the frame . You'll know pretty quickly if you have and bad spots.
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 02:56 PM
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Granted the pictures don't tell the whole story; but you guys that call that frame toast, I don't know what you're used to seeing where you may live but I would say that's typical of an older truck up north. I've seen much worse on newer trucks so that's actually not bad for 19 years old. I'd start by wire brushing that and then follow up with a product like Eastwood's POR-15 or something similar. Then Fluid-Film it every year to keep it clean. May cost you some $$$ but it's cheaper than a new truck! Those are just my thoughts anyway.
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Pgh Rebel
Granted the pictures don't tell the whole story; but you guys that call that frame toast, I don't know what you're used to seeing where you may live but I would say that's typical of an older truck up north. I've seen much worse on newer trucks so that's actually not bad for 19 years old. I'd start by wire brushing that and then follow up with a product like Eastwood's POR-15 or something similar. Then Fluid-Film it every year to keep it clean. May cost you some $$$ but it's cheaper than a new truck! Those are just my thoughts anyway.
I went out and beat on it with a few different size hammers. It all feels solid, as the rust flakes fall off. I like the idea of grinding it, then coating it. The cost of that doesn’t seem too bad, to try anyways before selling and looking for a new truck.

The bed could use new rail supports. I’ve found a few places that sell them. Then I was thinking about welding new piece of decent gauge sheet metal down.
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 07:10 PM
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I planning to buy a needle scaler either from HF or elsewhere, never used one. HF is around $30 if it works any scaling will basically disappear and I thinking it faster then the grinder. It does use an air compressor.
 
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Old 07-11-2019, 07:20 PM
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Old 07-11-2019, 07:54 PM
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These threads should be helpful in seeing a before and after:
  1. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-salvage.html
  2. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ld-i-do-2.html

I have had good luck with Chassis Saver other swear by POR15. If you don't to that, clean the frame and coat the underneath with used motor oil, bar and chain oil (my preference), or Fluid Film.

Your frame looks fine to me regardless of the body rust. Just remember, rust is automotive cancer. The only try way to fix it is completely remove it. Otherwise, you can slow it down but never truly stop it.
 


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