Exhaust Manifolds blow out
#16
07-11-2019, 06:44 AM
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Nobody likes Dorman because it's Chinese crap, that, and DieseltechRon preached his hatred for Dorman at every opportunity. If you haven't looked-up DieseltechRon's youtube channel you should.
When I did my manifold gaskets, I went to a local fastener supplier and bought 10.9-grade flange head screws. I didn't worry about the spacers. So far so good after a year and a half. You can get just about any fastener you need from mcmaster.com, fyi.
There were a couple of screws that broke off flush with the head but they weren't anything a cobalt drill and an easy out couldn't handle. Do yourself a favor and spray PB Blaster on the screws the night before pulling them.
Before re-mounting the manifolds, put a straight edge across the machined surface. Mine were out of flat by about 1/16". I spent a significant amount of time hand lapping them with an 8" stone. It was worth it though; I haven't had a migraine headache since.
When I did my manifold gaskets, I went to a local fastener supplier and bought 10.9-grade flange head screws. I didn't worry about the spacers. So far so good after a year and a half. You can get just about any fastener you need from mcmaster.com, fyi.
There were a couple of screws that broke off flush with the head but they weren't anything a cobalt drill and an easy out couldn't handle. Do yourself a favor and spray PB Blaster on the screws the night before pulling them.
Before re-mounting the manifolds, put a straight edge across the machined surface. Mine were out of flat by about 1/16". I spent a significant amount of time hand lapping them with an 8" stone. It was worth it though; I haven't had a migraine headache since.
And then second dumb question. He wants to paint the manifolds. Since they are new, would you? Have you? Thanks.
#17
07-11-2019, 07:40 AM
#18
07-11-2019, 08:04 AM
Cargo Master
Dumb questions...…………...Does it matter that the truck will need to be driven a few miles to where we will be working on it? Will it burn off? I plan on soaking it prior to wrenching and thought about spraying night before, but didn't think it would matter since we have to take it some where else to work on.
And then second dumb question. He wants to paint the manifolds. Since they are new, would you? Have you? Thanks.
And then second dumb question. He wants to paint the manifolds. Since they are new, would you? Have you? Thanks.
I wouldn't waste my time painting the manifolds unless I lived in New Jersey. After 14 years in Texas, my manifolds had very little rust. If he does paint, make sure any and ALL oil is removed first. Scrub with mineral spirits and a stiff bristle brush, and then scrub with denatured alcohol.
#19
07-11-2019, 08:09 AM
#20
07-11-2019, 08:13 AM
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#21
07-11-2019, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Fuzzpuss;18748192[b
]I imagine anything that penetrates would still be there after driving a few miles. Even if I'm wrong, it's not like your losing anything spending ten minutes to spray the nuts the night before.[/b]
I wouldn't waste my time painting the manifolds unless I lived in New Jersey. After 14 years in Texas, my manifolds had very little rust. If he does paint, make sure any and ALL oil is removed first. Scrub with mineral spirits and a stiff bristle brush, and then scrub with denatured alcohol.
I wouldn't waste my time painting the manifolds unless I lived in New Jersey. After 14 years in Texas, my manifolds had very little rust. If he does paint, make sure any and ALL oil is removed first. Scrub with mineral spirits and a stiff bristle brush, and then scrub with denatured alcohol.
#22
07-11-2019, 08:24 AM
#23
07-11-2019, 02:57 PM
FTE Chapter Leader
As a strong penetrating oil WD40 is lacking a lot.
The mix with 50/50 mix of 100% acetone and dextron/mercron
automatic transmission fluid works well or you can get some Kroil.
NOTE if you use the DIY stuff be sure to keep the acetone away from
plastics and paint. Also keep away from sources of ignition.
The mix with 50/50 mix of 100% acetone and dextron/mercron
automatic transmission fluid works well or you can get some Kroil.
NOTE if you use the DIY stuff be sure to keep the acetone away from
plastics and paint. Also keep away from sources of ignition.
#24
07-11-2019, 03:07 PM
#25
07-11-2019, 04:11 PM
Do you plan to remove the manifolds with the cab and heads on? Removing the wheel well liner?
I need to add gaskets to my manifolds. Not much info on the goog with cab and heads on. Most everyone was wise enough to take care of that with the heads off. I stoned mine and apparently it wasn't good enough.
I need to add gaskets to my manifolds. Not much info on the goog with cab and heads on. Most everyone was wise enough to take care of that with the heads off. I stoned mine and apparently it wasn't good enough.
#27
07-11-2019, 07:43 PM
FTE Chapter Leader
Everyone keeps saying remove the liners. They don't take into account the trucks that have the stock flairs.
The liner is tucked up under them and they have a very wide inner lit. Taking the flair off is not really an option
as they are put on with 3M tape and screws.
#29
07-11-2019, 09:28 PM
I did one last fall. My driver side. I definately think pulling the fender liner for that one is a waste. I put all new bolts, spacers, and gasket back in with a generous coating of the copper stuff. It took about 4 hrs start to finish. I did have to retorque the bolts a month later and was able to get on all of them without fooling with the liner.
