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Starting issue with a 2000 F250 gasser

 
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Old 07-08-2019, 06:23 AM
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Starting issue with a 2000 F250 gasser

My father's F250 with the V10 just started an issue that has us both baffled. It started when we was towing my 5th wheel to a camping spot., Truck rand great while towing we get to my site shut her down and realize that we want to move the camper to the different side of the site. The truck would turn over but not fire. Long story short a fellow camper towed my dad's truck out of the way and relocated my camper for me. My father met another camper and he ran a shop, they exchanged numbers and mid week he drives the truck to my site. We talk and he explains that all they did was fidget with the inertia fuel switch and it started. He demonstrated that the truck started again and I even remote started it (aftermarket and NOT an alarm). The next week this happens again, so we fidget with the switch again and got it to start.

So my father orders a new switch thinking that the old one is faulty, I help him swap the switch and the truck starts fine and he goes home. The next day he calls me and the truck will not start at all. New switch, old switch makes no difference. Can anyone off insight on this?
 
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Old 07-08-2019, 09:27 PM
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I like to suggest connecting a test light to the output of the inertia switch when dealing with a intermittent fuel pump symptom. The light allows for a simple visual confirmation that power is or isn't being fed to the pump circuit during the key-on priming cycle. This then enables one to half-split the circuit so as to see which direction the attention should be focused.
 
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Old 07-08-2019, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89 View Post
I like to suggest connecting a test light to the output of the inertia switch when dealing with a intermittent fuel pump symptom. The light allows for a simple visual confirmation that power is or isn't being fed to the pump circuit during the key-on priming cycle. This then enables one to half-split the circuit so as to see which direction the attention should be focused.
I thank you for the starting point. My father had it towed to a dealership and is negotiating on a 14 F250 extended cab.
 
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Old 07-09-2019, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ImmortalCramban View Post
.... The next day he calls me and the truck will not start at all. New switch, old switch makes no difference. Can anyone off insight on this?
A voltmeter on the DG/YE input lead to the Inertia Switch will tell you if you are even getting 12v power to it.
The fuel pump power is provided by the Fuel Pump Relay, to the Inertia Switch, then on to the pump.
Your problem may just be the Fuel Pump Relay contacts are bad.
 
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Old 07-09-2019, 05:43 AM
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A new fuel pump (probable worst case) is a lot more cost effective than a replacement truck. But, good luck to him anyway.
A voltmeter on the DG/YE input lead to the Inertia Switch will tell you if you are even getting 12v power to it.
I suggest the light instead of the meter since you don't have to remember to turn it on or anything else when the vehicle is to be started. It's also easier to use the simple light as it's easily visible while driving should there be concerns about the power to the fuel delivery system after starting.
 
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Old 07-09-2019, 07:35 AM
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Next time it won't start, bang on the gas tank with a 2x4 a few times

The brushes in the fuel pump are at a point on the commutator that is probably "cruddy" (yeah, that's a technical term). Give it a whack, and it'll start up again. Playing with the inertia switch probably causes an interruption in voltage in just the right way to get the fuel pump to start turning again. Or it was random luck.

A lot of times, at least in other vehicles, a failing fuel pump relay will not supply enough amperage to the fuel pump, the fuel pump will run under-voltage, and the brushes/commutator get burned from the extra load. I've had quite a few in-laws and friends get fuel pumps replaced only to go through it again and again. Turns out, in each instance, the fuel pump relay was going bad. One so much so that the contacts in the relay panel overheated and melted the plastic.
 
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Old 07-09-2019, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Krewat View Post
.... A lot of times, at least in other vehicles, a failing fuel pump relay will not supply enough amperage to the fuel pump, the fuel pump will run under-voltage, and the brushes/commutator get burned from the extra load. I've had quite a few in-laws and friends get fuel pumps replaced only to go through it again and again. Turns out, in each instance, the fuel pump relay was going bad. One so much so that the contacts in the relay panel overheated and melted the plastic.
I miss having a voltmeter so I added a digital one.
I tapped the Inertia Switch input for a source which will also monitor the voltage the fuel pump is getting.
If the voltage looks odd I have an Aux power outlet voltmeter in the console that I can plug in to double check things.
 
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Old 07-09-2019, 07:19 PM
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Very cool...
 

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