very nice setup, I dont think ill need the switch either, the power steps are going for $1300 and I just added up the parts for the OEM step going for over $2000.00

 

So that last question is, does the OEM PRB module sense increased current when fully deployed or stowed? Or does it use the hall effect sensor to detect position?

 

The other wires detect position. I'm guessing it works somewhat like a wiper motor too. But with a little more.

 

all it does is senses resistance and allows the PRB to stay in the position that is at example
PRB is down and something gets stuck like a foot it prevents the PRB to continue to retract,
if its retracted and senses it can not deploy like if its frozen the it stops the motor to keep it from burning out or braking something like the gears...

 

that looks good!

 

One nice think about switch is if you park next to cars can leave them done for door ding protection. I just step on it but can only do that on one side when by self.

 

Anibal,
So upon deploy or stow, the OEM PRB will function to 100% then stop? so, do you think my theory to use the deploy and stow wires only from the OEM PRB to the two wires from the motors on the AMP powersteps might function through the truck?
I have not purchased the AMP step yet and am just mulling over the wiring before I do, plus I am out of the country working so I am trying to understand the full function of the OEM PRB wiring.
Thanks for the input, very much appreciated.
Mike

 

The Hall effect sensors are nothing more than proximity sensors, near and far tells the motors when to stop. The amp boards most like use some kind of current sensing relay in the module to know when the stop has been met, the draw will be heavier when it’s either deployed or stowed and the module will cut power to the motor. The factory module most likely doesn’t have the ability to sense current to stop the motor, it’s looking for the proximity sensor, unless they have a current sense built in as a back up in case the proximity sensors fall(which they do).

 

Thanks JHForman812, That is good information and I will attempt test these theories and report back to the board, I would really like to make this work so I'll give it a try.

 

It’s crazy to think the factory parts cost 2k, it’s a 997$ option when building the truck, I had them put on mine when I ordered it.

 

I wanna figure out how to get the navigator running board lights on my truck, they look bad *** but I can’t find a good picture of them currently.

 

I forgot all about adding them when I bought the truck, so I am stuck with taking the $ hit and going with AMP, I have never seen the navigator running board lights, may have to search for them and see, I have some lighting ideas for the running boards but would like to see other ideas

 

I’ve been looking at this for a while now as well since I haven’t been able to track down a set of used running boards. When I priced out the parts for all oem the other day is 2400+ and then you need to make the harness. Hopefully you’re able to get it to work!

 

When I’m back at work Sunday I’ll post a picture of the setup the navigator has, it’s really clean.

 

yes first question.i dont think so , it might give you error code on the OEM module, the OEM module has a self preservation feture that wont allow it to operate if it dont see what it thinks it needs , i will try to find AMP schematics and see how the operate.