Driving my 2005 F150 5.4L engine on hwy at 75 mph in cruise control for 50 miles. Started losing power and tried to accelerate but engine died. I pulled over to side of road and noticed "check guages" where you would normally see "low fuel" or odometer, outside temp and direction. Didn't notice any wierd temp or oil pressure readings. After I was pulled over, tried to restart and engine only clicks once when key is turned. The "check gauges " is gone, showing usual odometer again. All gauges, stereo, windows, ect have full power. Disconnected negative battery cable and let it sit for 15 minutes, tried to start but only powers all dash and clicks once. The gas gauge does seemed to be a little slower than the other gauges though.
Called AAA and got towed home. Took battery and alternator to auto parts store and both passed. My check engine light is not on, but I have a friend coming over in the morning to see if there are any codes, doubtful since no check engine light.
Does anyone have any ideas on where to start looking for problems?
Have 212,000 miles but had engine completely rebuilt 2 years ago when I bought it by a very reputable truck mechanic. Only problems I've had with truck is placing batteries due to corrosion, but that could also be tied to heavy use of a tommy lift on the back. I clean my terminals about every 4 months.
Ive read about trottle body and position sensor, and was thinking that could be a good starting place, but most posts on that they were able to start their trucks after it had died. Another thought was the fuel pump driver module, but I don't see any corrosion around or under it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

 

Not an expert, but it may be fuel related since you were driving when it happened - fuel pump maybe.

Had my 2006 5.4l stumble and start coughing and limping while plowing last winter. Threw a cel though and still cranked ok so probably not your issue. Cleaned the throttle body and worked fine after that (didn’t look very dirty)

 

you said the starter / solenoid "CLICKS" when the key is turned... So WHY are you looking at the fuel pump / alternator / sensors / throttle body ?????????

IT WONT CRANK..... See if you can get under the truck and rotate the motor with a 24 inch prybar on the flywheel teeth... or a breaker bar and socket on the front crank pulley.. If it WILL rotate, then your starter / cable / battery is not strong enough to turn the motor over.......... since it lost power and DIED on the road, im thinking the motor was locking up... Air conditioner clutch froze up or motor lost lube oil to the bearings................ see if you can ROTATE the crank by hand.

 

The engine will rotate by hand and there is no water in oil. Replaced the battery today with one from Napa, but they checked the other battery and its also good, pulling 847 amps. The engine did try to crank over 2x with the new battery but 3rd time it only clicked again. I had hoped it would start and then I would have drove it to Napa to recheck alternator. No codes are stored, no check gauges light either. Decided to have it towed again to my mechanic that rebuilt it 2 years ago. (Thank God for AAA) I'll know the diagnosis on Wednesday and will update if anyone else experiences the same. My only thoughts on throttle body was there were several posts about trucks dieing while driving caused by dirty throttle bodies or bad TP sensor. But in those cases, they were able to restart. Same with fuel module above spare tire. AAA was the one that recommended alternator replacement. There are no posts with my exact problems. I believe I mentioned that I have a tommy gate on the back, so I do use a little more power from my battery than most trucks, although I had not used the lift that day. The only thing that I did not do is hit the side of the starter with a hammer when it did crank, like some have suggested. The fact that it died while driving (accelerating up a hill actually) gives me pause concerning the well being of the engine. I'm pretty religious with my amsoil oil changes though. But truck engine is definitely not locked up.

 

if the motor rotates by hand, and the battery is new.... then you have a problem with the starter / solenoid / dirty cables / master fuse / etc....................... but WHY did it loose power on the road and die ?

 

Sounds like starter bad to me . Hopefully engine is not hydro locked with fuel due to leaking injector. You were able to turn it by hand so its most likely not locked. I would replace battery lead off positive side since you indicate a lot of corrosion . That corrosion gets inside insulation . You can find a lead problem doing a voltage drop test You just put a volt meter lead from one end to the other try to crank and you shouldn't see much voltage drop if its good . Same on negative and clean attachment points to frame and engine . Don't use a cheap battery connector or lead-- buy good ones . Also check for loose starter bolts and connections have to be clean.
Yes fix crank problem first,but make sure plugs are not full of fuel .
Meanwhile pull fpdm off rear axle, if its corroded get a new one on standoffs.That can cause a shutdown .They are a known problem .But its not your crank problem .