I have a 2005 Sport Trac Power Window situation. All passenger windows inoperative from both the driver master switch control & each individual window controls. The LH front window functions, so I assume power wiring & ground to the LH door control is effective. Seems to me that my problem is the master switch itself in its control circuit, ( diodes shown in the schematic ?). I wanted other opinions before investing $48 in a new switch......trying to keep a less than 60K mile Sport Trac in service !.....thoughts....George G.

 

I haven't pulled up the diagram in awhile, but I suspect the diodes you are referring to are the button backlighting LEDs.

Have you cycled the power window lock button and tried the passenger windows? I don't think the lock should prevent the master switch from allowing the other windows to work, but worth a try anyway.

If the lock button does not have an effect reply back. I can take a look at the diagram to see if there's anything else that jumps out which might cause only the driver's window to work. Broken wires in the accordion boot between the driver's door and the cab are common, but I'm not sure if there's a single wire or two that would render all other windows inoperative.

-Rod

 

Rod...Thank you for your response. The referenced window lock switch seems to have no function, have cycled it several times in an attempt to reset. I thought the diodes may be illumination related, cannot see a wiring situation that would drop out all passenger windows from both the master control & the individual switches.....but 14 years sitting out in the weather ?

 

Do the power window switches at the other doors light up? From the wiring diagram the only single point of failure that I see which could cause the other power windows to not work would be the Red/Light Blue wire at pin 4 of master switch connector C504B. This wire is the power feed for the remaining door switches which also provides power for the backlight LEDs. The remaining diodes shown in the wiring diagrams are diodes to ensure the LEDs have ground at their cathode regardless of whether the window switches are at rest, pressed for raise, or pressed for lower. However, that still should not prevent the master switch from being able to control the other windows. The easy way to determine if that might be on the correct path would be to see whether or not the other switches illuminate.

-Rod

 

Thank you for your response. I checked last night, the master control switches for each door on the master switch do illuminate. Will check the individual door control switches tonight for any illumination. Sure looks like something failed in the master control switch ?.....George
Or :Should I test for 12v @ the C504b connector RD/LB #4 pin to the G400 BK wire ? ( key switch to acc ). If no 12v, does this point to master switch failure ?. If it appears to be a wire in the door/chassis boot/harness, I may have to take it to a shop,,,,,my knees/back won't allow much work in that position !.....

 

The LEDs in the master switch don't turn on or off based on the position of the window lock button, only the LEDs in the individual door switches will not illuminate with the window lock engaged.

Yeah, I would suggest checking for 12V at the Rd/LB wire at terminal #4 with respect to ground while the key is in ACC or RUN. If you don't have 12V, then toggle the window lock button to see if you get a flicker of 12V. If so, or really even if not, the issue most likely lies within the master window switch. If you do have power at terminal #4, then the issue is probably with that wire to the other switches, and most likely will be inside the accordion boot.

-Rod

 

Thanks Rod.......will trouble shoot & report progress....
Wow, just checked LEDs w/ign sw on....have LEDs lit on all switches & the radio light on with the dome light !,
& the lockout switch when toggled, turns the non-working switches LEDs on & off as you described....do you still suggest
checking the 12v @ the described wire?. I noticed the connector @ the switch R/LB wire is the same one providing 12V, so I may have to probe the insert to get the contact ? ( & may have to be in daylight tomorrow....thank you )

 

Nope, it the LEDs toggle that indicates that the R/LB connection is good. This is getting strange now, especially since the master switch also does not work for the other windows....

-Rod

 

Yep...that's what I thought. I did not want to buy a new switch without some indication it was bad. I find it is strange the "parallel switches" do not function while the LH front window gets power, ground, etc. Is there a possibility that a crack or break in the circuit board linking the switches ( saw on you-tube switch repair), that may be the problem, or is that just for the LED lights ?? Other suggestions ?

 

From what the factory wiring diagrams show, the power for the individual power window switches is from the same power lead that provides the switch illumination. If the switch illumination works on the remaining switches, then that wire is at least not open circuit. If the illumination appears dim, there could be a high resistance path to those switches, either due to corrosion or a partially compromised wire.

Since I too am not one (typically) for replacing a part without testing it first, I'd suggest confirming that the wires at terminals 1 and 6 for each of the individual door switches are at ground potential when no window switch is being pressed. I'd then use a test light to confirm you have a nice bright light on the wire at terminal 3 (power/illumination) when the key is in Acc/Run. The only single wire I see that could cause all switches to fail to work is the power/illumination wire at terminal 3.

When you figure out what you don't have (ground at terminals 1 and 6 or power at terminal 3 with the key on), you'll need to trace those signals back to the master power window switch to see if it is providing the correct output. If it is, then the issue is between the master switch and the individual switch. If it is not, then the master switch is very likely the culprit. once you know which terminal or terminals at the master switch are not providing the correct output, you can more easily trace the circuits to determine if it's something you're able to repair or if you'll need to purchase a new master switch.

-Rod

 

Thanks, will keep you posted on search....G

 

Stranger yet. I purchased a replacement master control switch ( Amazon )....not a Ford OEM. I removed the original switch, installed the new switch, driver side window went down, but not back up !. No other windows operated either. In a near panic, I put the old switch back in, & that restored the driver side function !. I then found two out of the three passenger windows are now operating, & the lockout switch functions for those two !. I decided to leave well enough alone for the time being, knowing the problem is probably in connector wire/contacts & maybe one window wire. Did not attempt to spray contact cleaner into connectors, but may do later. Just to post results for others....

 

That is interesting, and a good find. I wonder how many expansion joints or pot holes in the road before it stops working again.

-Rod

 

That's about what I am thinking too....don't know why the "import switch" did not work.....they offer a 7yr. warranty. Maybe the movement of the wiring harness in the door, or the remove/replace refreshed a contact, or just juggling the switch assembly. Did not see any noticeable damage in the wiring bundle while disconnecting/reconnecting. I am going to run with it awhile & see......Thanks for the comments, efforts, George