Oz built 1968-1972 F250 Hydraulic clutch linkage gram
#1
06-15-2019, 04:37 AM
Oz built 1968-1972 F250 Hydraulic clutch linkage gram
Hi All,
Recently got around to removing the NP435 transmiussion from the chassis, ordered a newer type of clutch throwout lever and fulcrum and have either ordered or been sent the wrong one.
No big deal at first glance, means removing the spring clip from the newer version (it is also an inch shorter at the rod end and 3/8" shorter from tips of fingers to centre of fulcrum).
Old type had that mongrel wire spring setup which kept jumping out anytime you tried to adjust the rod. Newer type better idea with retaining clip, but lever itself too short, so will have to drill out the rivets retaining the clip and mount them on the old lever.
So far, so good.
Old pushrod was a two piece affair, one half screwed into a threaded rod with a locknut. At lever end had a "mushroom" type of end, again secured with a locknut. Trouble is even with a new clutch plate installed, there is very little thread left on the pushrod. As the clutch plate wears, you would expect the distance between the throwout bearing and clutch diaphragm to shorten, which would mean the rod itself has to be lengthened.
Easiest way around it would seem to be to make the threaded rod part of the pushrod longer to accomodate this shortage, maybe a longer bolt with same thread and grind it to suit the piston cup. Other thing was the replacement throwout lever I was given, has a "blind" hole, original lever has a hole , roughly 1/2" diam with enough rod extended to put a locknut on. Whole assembly had a light spring attached mounted on a "Z" bracket to put slight pressure on the pushrod and maintaining the correct throwout clearance.
Is there anyone out there who may have a blowup diagram of the OZ built hydraulic clutch setup to suit 1968-1972 F250-350?
Make life a bit easier when reinstalling. Also seems to work better, (on the bench at least) with a 5mm (1/4") spacer between the new fulcrum and the cast iron bellhousing face, yet the curvature and angle of the two forks seem identical (EXCEPT for the discrepancy in actual throwout lever lengths).
Any help appreciated, Thanks Dave 64
Recently got around to removing the NP435 transmiussion from the chassis, ordered a newer type of clutch throwout lever and fulcrum and have either ordered or been sent the wrong one.
No big deal at first glance, means removing the spring clip from the newer version (it is also an inch shorter at the rod end and 3/8" shorter from tips of fingers to centre of fulcrum).
Old type had that mongrel wire spring setup which kept jumping out anytime you tried to adjust the rod. Newer type better idea with retaining clip, but lever itself too short, so will have to drill out the rivets retaining the clip and mount them on the old lever.
So far, so good.
Old pushrod was a two piece affair, one half screwed into a threaded rod with a locknut. At lever end had a "mushroom" type of end, again secured with a locknut. Trouble is even with a new clutch plate installed, there is very little thread left on the pushrod. As the clutch plate wears, you would expect the distance between the throwout bearing and clutch diaphragm to shorten, which would mean the rod itself has to be lengthened.
Easiest way around it would seem to be to make the threaded rod part of the pushrod longer to accomodate this shortage, maybe a longer bolt with same thread and grind it to suit the piston cup. Other thing was the replacement throwout lever I was given, has a "blind" hole, original lever has a hole , roughly 1/2" diam with enough rod extended to put a locknut on. Whole assembly had a light spring attached mounted on a "Z" bracket to put slight pressure on the pushrod and maintaining the correct throwout clearance.
Is there anyone out there who may have a blowup diagram of the OZ built hydraulic clutch setup to suit 1968-1972 F250-350?
Make life a bit easier when reinstalling. Also seems to work better, (on the bench at least) with a 5mm (1/4") spacer between the new fulcrum and the cast iron bellhousing face, yet the curvature and angle of the two forks seem identical (EXCEPT for the discrepancy in actual throwout lever lengths).
Any help appreciated, Thanks Dave 64
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