Those cut wires went to the ignition module. Put an HEI or a newer style distributor in it and delete that spark module all together. I had a distributor from Summit in mine that I had to use a coil with and was more like OEM. But have since installed an HEI distributor. just remember that the HEI will require a carb to air cleaner spacer.

 

If you were smart you would put a controller on it. I think I bought mine on amazon. it hooks up to ignition positive so it only runs when the key is on. but it has a wire that goes to the tach side of the coil so if the engine stalls (i.e. a bad wreck) the pump shuts off. if your in an accident and don't have the cutoff module installed, the pump may keep running flooding the scene with gasoline and worst case ignites before your extracted from the vehicle.

 

Thanks, I will look into it. Do you remember what this kit is called?

 

That is why I was looking to buy the one I posted, It has a smaller cap, so it will clear the factory cleaner. I don't know why they call it a HEI when it comes with an external coil. But, I like the looks of it. They have great reviews as well, people swear by these and say they love them. For the money, you really are getting everything you'll need. Comes with the coil, and HEI wires, all for around $190ish

 

Ignition modules used to be under the dash?

 

Not that I am aware of? Are you referring to the wires under my dash that I don't know where they went to?

I have a few different topics going on at the same time.

 

Yes... it was mentioned that they went to the module... and then I became confused (not that it takes a lot to accomplish that).

 

I was asking about that CRT dizzy and how to Install one. Maybe that's where it came from. The wires under the dash are still a mystery for me. I was pulling the wires up and zip tying them to get them up and out of the way. And that's when I seen these open plugs and no clue where they go.

 

With regard to your Mighty Mite fuel pump, hooking it up to the tach wire is hilarious.

Yes to adding a relay, and add this too :

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...-810/overview/

Both parts have installation instructions although I remember seeing a conflict between them.

Wire it to its own dedicated fused power source and use the correct fuse amp rating.

I never liked the fuel line coming up over the front of the engine, so I made a new fuel line which runs along the chassis, up along the firewall, and directly to the back of the carb.
(My Holley carb allowed me to do that.)

 

That's awesome, thank you for the information. I appreciate it.

 

No...lol I didn't see the under dash wiring picture until after I said that. But you showed some under the hood I was talking about...

 

The kit I bought on Ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/p/3-SEC-Key-on-Primer-Fuel-Pump-Relay-Safety-Switch-12v-Electric-Pary-Number-12003/1229616987?iid=163703397629&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt =1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=163703397629&targetid=59646594686 8&device=c&adtype=pla&googleloc=1025565&poi=&campa ignid=1689407483&adgroupid=74365778108&rlsatarget= aud-622524040958la-596465946868&abcId=1140476&merchantid=101710181&gc lid=Cj0KCQjw9pDpBRCkARIsAOzRzit8Y3hDW-AYS3M6nOBEmJGD9HVm9eApKNbutXJ9F5fEOkX4XjCkSH8aAsjU EALw_wcB

 

Oh ok, I don't know what pic that was lol

 

Just a little update.


Last night I ordered a Dizzy from CRT Performance. It has been almost 3 weeks since I started the timing chain project. The more time that goes by, makes me concerned... When I was taking everything apart from the front of the motor to replace the timing chain and install the Hi Flow water pump. I soaked all of the factory hardware in Evapo-rust and the front belt drive assembly parts, re-painted everything, got a new clutch for the fan, the fan itself is in great shape and that got a fresh coat of semi gloss black... It all came out looking like new again after the evapo-rust. Soaked it for 36 hours

I was looking over all the hardware and placing it on the timing cover and the new pump... I probably have over 50 bolts, I have a ton of pictures for reference when I was disassembling it all. But, this didn't very help much, The heads mostly all look the same, most are different sizes, just taking it slow and trying to get the hardware where it all needs to go.

 

New distributor

This is the one I ordered, CRT has horrible communications, they have a "tech question contact us" on their website. Over the last 2 weeks I've sent them several asking questions to better help my needs as to what one I needed to order. Called the number that's listed on the site as well, left ever more messages. I didn't hear a peep. Due to all of this I was really reluctant to purchase from them. I've been looking for weeks, doing research, asking members... Anyways, I feel like I shot myself in the foot when I finally broke down and ordered one, another member said he had one on his 460. He claims it's great. I took the man's word, trusting this was the best solution for me. I got the entire kit, dizzy, wires, epoxy coil.

I just hope that I don't have any problems with it, I would never be able to get a hold of them, just short of flying to where they are, walk in the place and give them a fresh one.

This was the one recommended to me, i want to retain the factory look, while keeping the original air cleaner assembly.

There was a big hole here, looked as if the casting was really thin and it corroded from the coolant.

Being a less than decent machinist, I machined out a small piece of 6061 Aluminium that was 3/16 thick to cover the hole. I used a high heat epoxy on the too and backside of it. I was going to order a new cover for it, but... why spend $100 if i didn't have to.