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Dead Short - Need EVTM!

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Old May 30, 2019 | 11:53 AM
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Dead Short - Need EVTM!

Have a dead short between Power Distribution Box and inside fuse panel (I think). Truck dies, ABS light flashes, WTS light flashes while drive but engine doesn't die. These sometimes occur separately and sometimes in tandem.

*LOOKING FOR EVTM FOR 1995 F350 7.3 PSD, 4x4 Automatic; specifically need the page/pages showing wiring from PDB to interior fuse panel.
 
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Old May 30, 2019 | 01:30 PM
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If you have a performance chip installed remove it first as it sounds like maybe loose connections, just a guess.

This might help a bit ... https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...an/stjmain.htm

The actual wiring diagrams are available on CD / DVD but are many many pages and difficult to post on here.
 
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Old May 30, 2019 | 02:49 PM
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Thanks Hussler, at this point, anything helps....but nothing as much a cold beer
 
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Old May 31, 2019 | 11:12 AM
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Check the ignition switch, would not be bad to just replace due to age with MOTORCRAFT only. Power seems to flow from the batteries to the fused links to the under hood box. The under hood box powers interior fuses. They are 9, 15, 17, look under those under hood to verify no oddities with wiring and make sure you have the correct amperage ratings in all slots.

Trace to CONNECTOR C202. The firewall plug. Pins 2, 3, 4 are all YELLOW hots into the passenger compartment that run to the ignition switch. I would buy some Deoxit and clean the hell out of the firewall connector, make sure no pins are recessed. BTDT on my A/C circuit.

Follow those to the passenger box as needed.



You stated 'the truck dies, but engine does not die'. This is a non sequitur. Elaborate more. How are the battery cables and ends?
 
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Old May 31, 2019 | 12:10 PM
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Hit Man X,

The symptoms started by the truck dying suddenly when backing out of the driveway or taking off from stoplight/sign, etc. After that, while driving down the road, the WTS light would flash on and immediately off....just like cycling the key on then right off. When this happened, I would notice the truck "hesitate" but it didn't actually die....just kept going. However, the voltmeter would twitch back and forth until the GPR finished it's cycle and voltmeter would return to normal. On other occasions, this would happen and then the ABS would flash shortly thereafter. Then, in another scenario, and at random, just the ABS light would come one.

Battery cables are good and snug. According to my manual, Fuse 13 (50amp) in PDB powers interior positions 5 (air bag - don't have one), 9 (power point), & 13 (Stop/Hazard Lamps, Anti-Lock Brake Module Memory Power (F-Series Only), Speed Control, Stop Sense for: Powertrain Control, Anti-Lock Brakes, Automatic Transmission Shift Interlock). I have replaced the brake switch, speed control switch, shift interlock, ABS sensor (VSS), key lock cylinder, shift tube bushings, & backup sensor.

You stated this above: "Power seems to flow from the batteries to the fused links to the under hood box." Can you describe where to find the fused links between the battery and the under hood box?
 
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Old May 31, 2019 | 01:33 PM
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Clean all the power and ground connections first per knottyrope's post - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ou-cranky.html Wire brush, reinstall with bearing grease to prevent corrosion. Do the alternator one too...low charging output does some strange things! BTDT on my Volvo.

Fused links are at the solenoid on the constant hot side. I would clean them all also and of course verify none are roached.

I would drop the ignition switch and inspect it for slop. I have seen very wacky issues on my old euro cars with crap switches, even by Bricknose's was jacked up years ago.
 
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Old May 31, 2019 | 01:48 PM
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You are loosing power somewhere between the batteries and the under hood fuse box. I doubt it's a fuse link but possible. WTS light coming on indicates PCM is doing a power reset, like you turned the key off/on really quick. As mentioned look at the fender starter relay connections, the one in front is where the main battery terminal connects and the other wires distributes power to the rest of the vehicle.

Here is a crappy picture on my 97. The unplugged wire is the trigger wire to activate the relay when starting.

 
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Old Jun 1, 2019 | 11:36 AM
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Much easier problem than you think it is OP.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2019 | 01:52 PM
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Hit Man & Hussler,

Been out of pocket for the weekend working on other things and helping out a family with some young 'uns whose momma is in a tough fight with cancer. Thanks for the continued input....and I hope you're right, that I'm making it harder than it is. On the flip side, a few of the things I replaced gave me some experience I didn't have which gives me confidence to tackle the next problem when it arises. And some of those problems needed to be addressed anyway....like the shift tube bushings, backup lights, and key cylinder. Riverrat41 has been a huge help to me over the years. Thanks to him and this site, I'm at least not afraid to try anymore....being broke is motivation too. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2019 | 02:09 PM
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I will be down in San Antonio area in October, not in the F350. If I have time and you guys come out, I will be there with a member on this site and other pals just BSing around.



Anyway, dirty connectors and grounds can make someone nuts. I have almost been able to restart my truck that sat in water passed registration sticker thanks to Harvey! A bit at a time.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2019 | 03:38 PM
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That ain't a short, that's a long! Make sure grounds and connections are clean and tight.
 
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