Dead Short - Need EVTM!
Have a dead short between Power Distribution Box and inside fuse panel (I think). Truck dies, ABS light flashes, WTS light flashes while drive but engine doesn't die. These sometimes occur separately and sometimes in tandem. *LOOKING FOR EVTM FOR 1995 F350 7.3 PSD, 4x4 Automatic; specifically need the page/pages showing wiring from PDB to interior fuse panel.
This might help a bit ... https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...an/stjmain.htm
The actual wiring diagrams are available on CD / DVD but are many many pages and difficult to post on here.
Trace to CONNECTOR C202. The firewall plug. Pins 2, 3, 4 are all YELLOW hots into the passenger compartment that run to the ignition switch. I would buy some Deoxit and clean the hell out of the firewall connector, make sure no pins are recessed. BTDT on my A/C circuit.
Follow those to the passenger box as needed.
You stated 'the truck dies, but engine does not die'. This is a non sequitur. Elaborate more. How are the battery cables and ends?
The symptoms started by the truck dying suddenly when backing out of the driveway or taking off from stoplight/sign, etc. After that, while driving down the road, the WTS light would flash on and immediately off....just like cycling the key on then right off. When this happened, I would notice the truck "hesitate" but it didn't actually die....just kept going. However, the voltmeter would twitch back and forth until the GPR finished it's cycle and voltmeter would return to normal. On other occasions, this would happen and then the ABS would flash shortly thereafter. Then, in another scenario, and at random, just the ABS light would come one.
Battery cables are good and snug. According to my manual, Fuse 13 (50amp) in PDB powers interior positions 5 (air bag - don't have one), 9 (power point), & 13 (Stop/Hazard Lamps, Anti-Lock Brake Module Memory Power (F-Series Only), Speed Control, Stop Sense for: Powertrain Control, Anti-Lock Brakes, Automatic Transmission Shift Interlock). I have replaced the brake switch, speed control switch, shift interlock, ABS sensor (VSS), key lock cylinder, shift tube bushings, & backup sensor.
You stated this above: "Power seems to flow from the batteries to the fused links to the under hood box." Can you describe where to find the fused links between the battery and the under hood box?
Fused links are at the solenoid on the constant hot side. I would clean them all also and of course verify none are roached.
I would drop the ignition switch and inspect it for slop. I have seen very wacky issues on my old euro cars with crap switches, even by Bricknose's was jacked up years ago.
Here is a crappy picture on my 97. The unplugged wire is the trigger wire to activate the relay when starting.
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Been out of pocket for the weekend working on other things and helping out a family with some young 'uns whose momma is in a tough fight with cancer. Thanks for the continued input....and I hope you're right, that I'm making it harder than it is. On the flip side, a few of the things I replaced gave me some experience I didn't have which gives me confidence to tackle the next problem when it arises. And some of those problems needed to be addressed anyway....like the shift tube bushings, backup lights, and key cylinder. Riverrat41 has been a huge help to me over the years. Thanks to him and this site, I'm at least not afraid to try anymore....being broke is motivation too
. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Anyway, dirty connectors and grounds can make someone nuts.
I have almost been able to restart my truck that sat in water passed registration sticker thanks to Harvey! A bit at a time.









