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P1316 and super rough idle, no power

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  #61  
Old 06-03-2019, 01:05 PM
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STANDoner: Others will have to help you with the sensor readings. Personally, I would be interested to know your fuel pressure. And I am very happy that you started this thread. The vans are indeed different. Starting with our crappy fuel tanks...
 
  #62  
Old 06-03-2019, 02:21 PM
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So I pulled the MAP and check key on Voltage on pin three as suggested on another thread and I get 5V, so I know I have power to the sensor. I also checked the hose and it had no kinks and was well connected to both sides. It is possible that the sensor itself os bad.
Does anyone know what reading you get on a scan tool if the sensor is bad? Would it max out or read nothing?
I have no Check engine light and no DTCs for Baro or MAP.
A person told me that after the injector change I need to drive it for about 50 miles before I can get all the air out of the oil pump, does this sound correct to anyone?

Again I ma trying to figure out what high readings from the Barometric Pressure input indicates?
 
  #63  
Old 06-03-2019, 03:04 PM
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Baro should be checked against MAP and EBP on a cold, non-running engine (key on engine off).

The 3 sensors should be within .5 of each other. Whichever is out of whack is the faulty sensor.

I am not 100% sure, but I think that Baro is on the PCM board and not a swappable sensor...
 
  #64  
Old 06-03-2019, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Sous
Baro should be checked against MAP and EBP on a cold, non-running engine (key on engine off).

The 3 sensors should be within .5 of each other. Whichever is out of whack is the faulty sensor.

I am not 100% sure, but I think that Baro is on the PCM board and not a swappable sensor...

OK thats a definitive answer thanks, I will check it tomorrow morning.
Can one effect the others? What I mean is- vI just noticed that my MAP is reading 0 in my data logs?
I took it for another ride about 10 miles this time and found-
MAP- 0 . Normal Mass Air Flow (lb/min) [0.00 - 26.46]
Baro-148 (Normal Barometric Pressure Input (PSI) [0 - 148]) So it's maxed out with KOEO
EBP- Is between 15-18PSI (Exhaust Back Pressure (PSI) [0.00 - 344.46])

So 2 are out of spec, can one effect the other or does that point to both being bad?
 
  #65  
Old 06-03-2019, 05:13 PM
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White smoke is normal after an injector change. It's the oil that leaked down into the cylinders when you changed the injectors. It should clear up and the truck should work the air and smoke out of the system within 50 miles or so.

Try unplugging the MAP sensor. That should cause the PCM to give you a default value. If it still reads 0 with the MAP unplugged, your scanner might not be reading the MAP. Can it read boost pressure (comes from MAP sensor)?
 
  #66  
Old 06-03-2019, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
White smoke is normal after an injector change. It's the oil that leaked down into the cylinders when you changed the injectors. It should clear up and the truck should work the air and smoke out of the system within 50 miles or so.

Try unplugging the MAP sensor. That should cause the PCM to give you a default value. If it still reads 0 with the MAP unplugged, your scanner might not be reading the MAP. Can it read boost pressure (comes from MAP sensor)?
Good to hear, that makes me feel a little better. I will keep driving it and watch for improvement.
I will try unplugging the MAP and see what happens tomorrow. I just bought an AE scanner and am still learning how to use it but I'm pretty sure it will read boost.

Another question, I did an individual cylinder test and got a P0269 Cylinder 3 injector circuit
I'm wondering if it could be left over from before all the work? Will this code clear each time I clear all codes or do I need to do something else?
 
  #67  
Old 06-03-2019, 07:40 PM
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3 and 8 will sometimes trip fault codes on a contribution test with the current generation CPS. And trying the test before you've worked all the air out of the system might give you false readings anyway.

Generally speaking, you should only do the cylinder contribution test if you're chasing a specific problem, not as a general check. That test can throw false codes and lead you to chase something that's not there. Instead, use AE to read the perdel for each cylinder. I don't remember what AE calls it off the top of my head, but it will have each cylinder listed and a % of something. Numbers below 5% are good, but 3 and 8 get a pass if they're a bit high due to the new CPS.
 
  #68  
Old 06-03-2019, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
3 and 8 will sometimes trip fault codes on a contribution test with the current generation CPS. And trying the test before you've worked all the air out of the system might give you false readings anyway.

Generally speaking, you should only do the cylinder contribution test if you're chasing a specific problem, not as a general check. That test can throw false codes and lead you to chase something that's not there. Instead, use AE to read the perdel for each cylinder. I don't remember what AE calls it off the top of my head, but it will have each cylinder listed and a % of something. Numbers below 5% are good, but 3 and 8 get a pass if they're a bit high due to the new CPS.
Ok great, I will search for this function in the SW tomorrow. I have been struggling with that particular fault code as the buzz test sounds great and it's running great (other than the smoke) so was really surprised to see it. The new day will bring fresh hope! We are ready to get back on the road!
 
  #69  
Old 06-04-2019, 11:01 AM
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BTW,
@F350-6 The test is called the "Cylinder Rotational Velocity test" on the AE software.

Here is a great right up by @Tugly where he describes the CCT, PERDEL, Cylinder Rotational Velocity test and gives examples of good and bad.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...explained.html

I will run these tests today and see what I learn.
 
  #70  
Old 06-04-2019, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Sous
Baro should be checked against MAP and EBP on a cold, non-running engine (key on engine off).

The 3 sensors should be within .5 of each other. Whichever is out of whack is the faulty sensor.

I am not 100% sure, but I think that Baro is on the PCM board and not a swappable sensor...
@Sous I checked the Baro plugged and un-plugged and got the same max value of 148psi and max voltage. The EBP and the MAP are both reading 14.4 or within a thousandth of each other.
So does this tell me that the Baro sensor is bad or that something else is wrong??
 
  #71  
Old 06-04-2019, 02:14 PM
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I cannot remember for sure which years have the Barometric sensor on the PCM board and which do not. I suppose yours does not if you have unplugged it?

I would suspect that there should be a 5v reading on the harness connector via a multi-meter, check for that if the baro sensor is in fact not integrated to the PCM. This will tell you if there is a problem in the harness or the sensor itself.

What happened when you unplugged the MAP sensor and drove it?

Is the smoke clearing up at all?
 
  #72  
Old 06-04-2019, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Sous
I cannot remember for sure which years have the Barometric sensor on the PCM board and which do not. I suppose yours does not if you have unplugged it?

I would suspect that there should be a 5v reading on the harness connector via a multi-meter, check for that if the baro sensor is in fact not integrated to the PCM. This will tell you if there is a problem in the harness or the sensor itself.

What happened when you unplugged the MAP sensor and drove it?

Is the smoke clearing up at all?
I miss spoke, I unplugged the MAP sensor with KOEO and there was no change. I believe that the BARO is intigrated into the PCM since my truck is a late 1999.
I will drive it now to see what if any change happens in the MAP reading. That said, if the BARO reading is not changing, does that indicate a bad Baro on the PCM and so I need to now change the PCM?
Yes the smoke is clearing up as I drive, I plan to drive about 50 miles today to see if there is any change.
 
  #73  
Old 06-04-2019, 03:55 PM
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Are you sure you aren't missing a decimal point in your BARO reading? My truck normally reads 14.5 or 14.6 cold BARO depending on the weather. 14.8 may be a correct BARO reading depending on your elevation. Just a thought.
 
  #74  
Old 06-04-2019, 03:59 PM
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Slowsure might be on to something... I seem to remember (my brain is failing me...) that some of the data points in AE and TP need to be adjusted in the way they read the PID from the PCM. If there is in fact supposed to be a decimal in your Baro reading, your data points are spot on and within .5 of each other.

If it were me, I would drive on, continue your journey and worry about the Baro later. As long as the truck is running strong and there are no major issues staring you in the face, enjoy the rest of the trip and keep us updated when you can.
 
  #75  
Old 06-04-2019, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sous
Slowsure might be on to something... I seem to remember (my brain is failing me...) that some of the data points in AE and TP need to be adjusted in the way they read the PID from the PCM. If there is in fact supposed to be a decimal in your Baro reading, your data points are spot on and within .5 of each other.

If it were me, I would drive on, continue your journey and worry about the Baro later. As long as the truck is running strong and there are no major issues staring you in the face, enjoy the rest of the trip and keep us updated when you can.
Ha, funny you should mention that.
I plugged my SCT device in (I use it as a huge cluster when driving) and all readings were with in a few tenths and in speck.
We are back on the road heading south!!!!!

A huge thank you to all that commented and helped, you all are an amazing resource.
I will do a proper write up and post it once I stop driving. I think that there is a lot of learning in my experience.
 


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