My names Dave and I’ve been lurking here and learning all year. I’m not an experienced Ford owner; I came from the world of “Full Size Jeeps” (think Wagoneer, although mine was a ‘78 Cherokee). It’s been interesting to see how many Ford parts were used by Jeep.

I recently bought a “nice" ’78 F250, and I need help, of course. I bought a new rear window seal from Dennis Carpenter and I’ve installed it three times and it still leeks. Am I missing something? I believe the newer rear windows will fit, but are thinner, could that be a problem? Could I have just gotten a bad seal? Is there a trick I need to know” Any help would be appreciated.

I know there Is someone who is reputed to do a great job on conversion the the factory amp meter to a voltmeter and I don’t want to hurt their business, but I hate not doing things myself. The Jeep had a similar gauge cluster, including the PC board and one of the Jeep guys developed a clever DIY conversion which I did about 15 years ago. So Looking at my gage cluster in the Ford, and after cleaning all the contacts I got all the gauges working good, except the dreaded amp meter, I looked up the old info on the Jeep conversion. That voltmeter is still available from Amazon for $15 and so I did the conversion on my Ford. I think it came out better than it did on the Jeep. Here’s a picture:



Hope this helps someone.

 

If you use a 73/79 window you need to buy a 73/79 seal. If you use an 80/96 window you need to buy an 80/96 seal. Since the window frames are the same the seals are similar but since the newer windows are thinner you need the proper seal so everything fits nice and tight.

So yes your "thick" seal isn't properly sealing the thinner window. If I understood your post correctly. Regardless match the window years to the window seals


Oh and got a link to the voltmeter? That looks nice!

 

If I knew what window I had it would help, wouldn't it? Any other ideas?

Sorry about the voltmeter, I forgot to link it. It's a Sunpro CP7985. Here's Amazon's link:

 

You can get some 3M window bedding compound in a "caulking" type tube from your paint and body supply store. (I have the part number somewhere). It's a very heavy-bodied, messy black compound. Inject a generous bead into the glass channel and the channel that the sheet metal sits into. Expect that, after installation, you will have considerable clean up to do, especially if you're using a pull rope to install the glass, but it comes off readily with some wax and grease remover. It is non hardening and will seal any gaps. Don't get it on any fabric upholstery.

 

Thanks. I have some left from replacing my door seals, but was trying to avoid it. Guess it is the clearest solution though. I'll bet it is messy!

 

Sorry I can't help more maybe Numberdummy or mike0o0o0o or 77&79f250 know the window thickness differences

 

Does your truck have a sliding back window?

If it does not have a sliding back window, did the original back glass weather strip have a flexible plastic chrome moulding within it?

 

It's a solid window and had no trim in the original seal. This truck seemed to be a stripped down model.

 

Carpenter uses Ford part numbers in his catalogs. What was the part number of the weatherstrips you bought?

If you bought this, it's correct: D3TZ-1042084-A .. Back Glass Weather Strip - Regular & Super Cabs use with fixed back window / Reproduced.

1973/79 F100/350 Custom/Ranger.

 

Yes, that's the exact number I bought. Good idea to check that. Thanks.