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Hm yeah plug looks alright. Both engine banks the same?
Well i'd try to nail in your timing numbers with a timing light and make sure the numbers you said are accurate, and see when your mechanical advance is all in.
Then assuming your timing marks are accurate you know what you're dealing with.
Trying some higher octane gas can't hurt - do you know what compression ratio you're running?
And again i'd be wary of that cheap distributor...
My guess is it’s the distributor. All plugs look the same or close to. I did try once to run the engine without the weights in it so it wouldn’t advance and run just with initial. Still made a slight knock.
Decided to poke around with a screwdriver. Can hear it pretty well on the valve cover by the 5/6 cylinder. When I put it on the cylinder head, noise is less. On the intake, noise is more again. Getting pretty confused now.
Decided to poke around with a screwdriver. Can hear it pretty well on the valve cover by the 5/6 cylinder. When I put it on the cylinder head, noise is less. On the intake, noise is more again. Getting pretty confused now.
Lifter not pumping up? Bent push rod rubbing the intake? Valley splash shield rubbing a push rod? Push rod not fully seated in rocker cup which prevents valve from closing tight? I've had all these happen to me (but not at the same time ) :-)
Lifter not pumping up? Bent push rod rubbing the intake? Valley splash shield rubbing a push rod? Push rod not fully seated in rocker cup which prevents valve from closing tight? I've had all these happen to me (but not at the same time ) :-)
I removed the wire from 6 and it stopped making the noise. Looked it up sounds like this means it is a rod bearing.
I removed the wire from 6 and it stopped making the noise. Looked it up sounds like this means it is a rod bearing.
Could it be a cross fire through the plug wires? I know small blocks are sensitive to how the plug wires are routed. The wrong combination and they can cross fire.
I removed the wire from 6 and it stopped making the noise. Looked it up sounds like this means it is a rod bearing.
Sounds like you are on the right track to figure it out. Without typing a book, valve train noise is clicking, clacking even a squeaking sound sometimes. A main bearing will be a powerful thudding or knocking under acceleration. A rod bearing will knock the worst when you back down easy from around 30-35 mph. That engine also has bushed rods they can also get loose over time but they usually make a double knock sound and can be hard to tell apart from a rod knock. And then there is the dreaded loose flywheel knock but that usually happens when you turn the key off.
How long has it been since the engine was overhauled and what kind of oil pressure is it holding hot?
Sounds like you are on the right track to figure it out. Without typing a book, valve train noise is clicking, clacking even a squeaking sound sometimes. A main bearing will be a powerful thudding or knocking under acceleration. A rod bearing will knock the worst when you back down easy from around 30-35 mph. That engine also has bushed rods they can also get loose over time but they usually make a double knock sound and can be hard to tell apart from a rod knock. And then there is the dreaded loose flywheel knock but that usually happens when you turn the key off.
How long has it been since the engine was overhauled and what kind of oil pressure is it holding hot?
Hot at idle is 25ish. Cruising at 2000 or around there is above 40 and will usually be around 40-50 above 2000
Could it be a cross fire through the plug wires? I know small blocks are sensitive to how the plug wires are routed. The wrong combination and they can cross fire.
My wires on 6 and 7 and also 2 and 3 do make like an x shape and they have to be twisted around each other oddly. I can try today to take off number 7 and see if it stops. If it does I bet it is spark jumping.
That pressure is in the normal range for an FE. It is possible what you are hearing is a wrist pin. If it is a wrist pin, "big if" they will go for a log time before something comes apart. You could remove oil filter, cut the end off of it and unfold those pleats to check for metal. There is always a little in there but any copper flakes would call for some further investigation.
That pressure is in the normal range for an FE. It is possible what you are hearing is a wrist pin. If it is a wrist pin, "big if" they will go for a log time before something comes apart. You could remove oil filter, cut the end off of it and unfold those pleats to check for metal. There is always a little in there but any copper flakes would call for some further investigation.
I was told also that if I had a bad rod bearing the needle would bounce a little but mine stays constant