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6.9 Melted Wire, Now Don't Start

 
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Old 05-13-2019, 07:37 PM
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6.9 Melted Wire, Now Don't Start

A month ago, I went to start my truck. POOF! Cloud of smoke from passenger side of the engine bay. Popped the hood, completely melted the ground wire on my starter solenoid on the inner fender. The starter solenoid had a split ground wire which Rancho the negative terminal on the battery, then grounded to the fender. So I count that all out and used 10 gauge wire. Since this happened, I haven't been able to start the truck. Only way she fires is it it's plugged in or ether. I've checked the Motorcraft glow plugs I installed a 6 months ago, I'm getting power to them. I don't have a controller, that has been bypassed with a push button in the cab. The relay clicks, flow plugs get power, but nothing. She just turns over. I checked the Schrader valve often, just a small hiss of air comes out. When turning over white smoke is coming out so it's getting lots of fuel.
What am I missing here? How does a melted starter solenoid ground wire cause this to happen? How can I fix this so I can use my glow plugs again?
 
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Old 05-13-2019, 11:52 PM
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When I had smoke coming out of the passenger side of my IDI van, it was the fusable links to the GP's. It was the least opportune time for us, because we were in the town of Inuvik NWT in Canada, and we were heading up to the Arctic Ocean that exact moment. We ended up using ether to start it up until we drove far enough south to find a car parts store that had fusable links.

I'd wager your problem is a fusable link, but I don't now if the 6.9's have them. I know my 7.3 IDI has them. They are on the passenger side fender.

Another option could be you burned up the connection to the FSS on the IP. But if you can get it idling with ether, then the FSS is by definition open.
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 08:52 AM
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Ya it will run it I plug it in or use ether, and everything is fine with the motor when she is running. No misfires, chugging, loss of power, stalling. She's healthy it only she can start on her own. Excuse my inexperience here, but what is FSS?
I'm not sure if it has fusable links. I'll get under the hood today and see if I can identify these fusable links. I've checked everything that I could think of, and it was only that wire from the starter solenoid that melted.
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 09:52 AM
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here is the spliced wire that melted. It was grounded to the starter relay, then down to the electric regulator box for my alternator, then to the battery. The section that melted was from the battery to the starter relay. I did take my battery connections off and put a better tighter connection on. Still no luck. I have just checked my fusible links, they are fried or burnt up, unless theres another method in checking these fusible links? They are all intact and there from what i can see. Maybe you guys can see something I cant?
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 10:17 AM
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if the truck starts after plugging in or using ether, than the glow plugs are not working.

how are they wired? power through pushbutton switch to relay,
or are you switching the ground to the relay?
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Catlan Zuliani View Post

here is the spliced wire that melted. It was grounded to the starter relay, then down to the electric regulator box for my alternator, then to the battery. The section that melted was from the battery to the starter relay. I did take my battery connections off and put a better tighter connection on. Still no luck. I have just checked my fusible links, they are fried or burnt up, unless theres another method in checking these fusible links? They are all intact and there from what i can see. Maybe you guys can see something I cant?

My fusable links didn't look that damaged at initial glance. I had to wiggle them and you can feel the wire inside the insulation was looser than it should be.

Any time you have burnt up wire, you need to do a full system check of all your electrical. When my fusable links went, I had a spot on my GP wires that was bare, and it was grounding out on the tranny dipstick tube. Tightening down connections and cleaning up terminals and replacing fusable links is good and all, but you'll constantly have more and more electrical issues and burning until you find the short circuit, wherever it is.
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 01:59 PM
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I ran through all the wires, found a couple melted. Replace them. I checked the ohms on the glow plugs at 200 setting and I wasnt getting reading, which lead me to think the glow plugs are shot. I connected the harness back on all plugs, jumped the relay and checked all plugs and all 8 are showing 14 volts. So it must be my plugs that are all shot because of that melted wire? Cant find a short anywhere
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:19 PM
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i have never trusted the ohmmeter method of testing glow plugs. i remove them and put power to them and see if they light up. i have seen way too many "test good" and not work.
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:58 PM
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Since I posted, I actually tried that. I held a glow plug out, jumped the relay to fire em up. I checked 2 that i could reach, and neither of them glowed red. Its gotta be the plugs.

how do you check yours? Do you pull them all out and connect them to a battery, or like I did in the truck?
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 05:44 PM
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connect them direct to battery power.
but to be honest, if i have them out, i usually just replace them on my own vehicles. and try to convince owners to do the same, but some are cheap and tell me to put the old ones back in.
then continue to complain when the vehicle still does not start.

when you jumped the relay, did you check to make sure you had power going to the plugs?
it is possible your relay is bad.
 
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:47 PM
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I have 8 new ZD1A plugs ordered and on the way. I'm convinced it's the plugs. Just like you mentioned, I jumped the relay and then checked all 8 plugs. They all showed 14 volts, so that leads me to think my wiring is ok? I've checked the relay and it was showing power at 14 volts too. To check the relay, can I do that while jumping it or do I need another person Inside the cab pushing the manual button to check the relay? Also when I do check the relay when it's actuated, will I see .5 or 1 volt instead of 14 on the relay cause it's sending power to the plugs?
 
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:08 AM
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when i check relay i look for power on both big lugs when jumped.
when you jump the relay, you should jump the large terminal that is always powered to the small terminal that gets 12 volts when switch is pushed. then you should have 12 volts to the other large terminal . this will guarantee the relay itself is good. with these older glow plug relays, they tend to burn the contacts inside and will "click" when power is applied to them and sound like they are working, but since the contacts are burned, no power is passed through to the glow plugs.
 
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Old 05-15-2019, 08:45 AM
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I replaced the old relay with a brand new spare I had in my toolbox. Unfortunately it just does the click when I push the button. I don't think the relay is the problem otherwise this wouldn't be happened with a new relay installed. When I say jumping the relay I take a pair of heavy plyers, and I have each plier leg touch the negative and positive on the relay. That turns on the glow plug light in the cab, and shoots 14 volts to the plugs. Is the way you mentioned different from mine and I just misunderstood?
 
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Old 05-15-2019, 05:59 PM
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glow plug relay has 4 terminals. 2 large, 2 small. one large terminal should have power at all times. the other large terminal goes to the glow plugs. the two small terminals are low current power to activate the relay. one side gets 12 volts, the other side gets ground and the relay will close and send power to the glow plugs.
on a properly working setup, the glow plug controller will send 12 volts to the small terminal to activate the glow plug relay.
 
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Old 05-15-2019, 07:15 PM
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Everything checked out except for the last part you mentioned, I'm not getting any reading on the small tetminal when I jumped it. Is this suppose to be checked with the button pushed rather than jumping?
This is a brand new relay after the melted wire incident, so I'm thinking either I'm checking it wrong or I need another body to push the button rather than jumping, cause like you said it has to activate by clicking to send power to the small terminAl right?
 

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