1996 E350 based RV w/7,5L E4OD ,

can I get rid of the 4 Wheel ABS ?

I switched my rear diff to a disc brakes 99 Dana70 similar to my 96 drum brake version ....
My concern : the back brakes are barely used ,
Id like to have more pressure at the back
I already took off the residual valve on the master cylinder ( replaced with a direct fitting -no obstruction ) ' I tought id get more pressure to the rear wheels brakes , nope !

or would anyone know how to solve this issue ?
I tow a Jeep quitre often , I need more back brakes ....

 

I have pondered this myself, for my 96. I am thinking the thing to do is to buy some brake line and fittings, and bypass the ABS pump. It's located along the frame rail on the driver's side. If you crawl under right where the driver's door is, you'll find it right there.

My thought is to just disconnect the ABS pump assembly, and basically fabricate jumpers to go around it. Needs more research, though. So far, I have just been tossing it around in my mind.

I'd cap the ABS ports, just to make sure I could go back to it if I ever wanted to. No sense having dirt and critters get in there and ruin it.

 

I`ve looked under ,this is when I tought of cancelling all the system .......

It looks like just rerouting lines to bypass the HCU and module .....I want to know if anybody did it ,to be sure it wont cause any problems ( except the dash light )

 

Not sure if this is helpful but the ABS control module of my '03 E250 failed, constantly sending voltage to the pump---I simply pulled the fuse which naturally triggered the dash light. Because that module would cost me $550 plus that particular van will be sold sometime soon I won't go to that expense. The ABS is disabled yet full braking is still available---if you don't mind the dash light you might do the same thing and avoid all the work of running new brake lines etc simply to bypass the ABS block up front.

 

I suspect mine of messing with my brakes, as I have a recurring problem of eating RF rotors. I want to bypass it to ensure that the pump isn't causing that problem. Could also be the master cylinder, but I think the ABS pump is more likely. If I physically bypass it I will know for sure.

 

Anyone knows what size fitiing gets into the HCU ( Hydraulic control unit ) the thread seems to be around .530 od ,,,mut be metric

If I could Id get some flare inverted unions to just connect these together

 

the fittings that go into the HCU are M16 x 2.0 thread , but with a 3/16" ( 5.0 mm ) hole ? ,,,,,,,,wonder if I can get these