1972 f250 4x4
#1
1972 f250 4x4
I picked up a 1972 f250 4wd and a 1970 f350 2wd dually cab and chassis about a couple months back off another member here. Both trucks have 360fe engines. Manual tranny in the 4wd and c-6 automatic in the 2wd. Two weeks ago I looked them over a little more to figure if I was going to have a motor or not and what else was salvageable. 72' has a non running motor but is mostly together. The 70' which will be a parts truck had a motor that was supposedly running at some point, some straight body parts, a dealer add-on air conditioning set up, and original bucket seats. Thats the main stuff. My plans are to get a safe and drivable truck put together because I am anxious to drive this thing. Then I will delve in further. I will post the first pics.
#3
I first wanted to see if I was going to have a running engine. I needed a lot of parts to see if I could make the f350 motor run. From my 70' f250 at home, I brought some original parts that I had laying around. I brought the radiator, distributor, plug wires, and carburetor. Off the 4wd I robbed the starter, starter solenoid, ground cable, alternator and brackets, water pump, radiator hoses, oil filter housing, and fuel pump. I think that is everything. To start with we pulled the plugs and poured some tranny fluid down the holes and the motor would already turn freely. I put on the oil filter housing with a filter which wouldnt go on. It was hitting the cross member. I hammered on it a little til I could get it on. Then installed the starter and starter solenoid. Then put on the carb, found #1 tdc, and stabbed the dizzy. We rigged up a battery, and fuel that was gravity fed from a can on the roof, put in the plugs and hooked up wires so we could start it. We jumped it and it started immediately, so we let it run maybe 30 seconds and killed it. Since it started, we rigged in the radiator with the hoses, alternator, put on the belt, and the fuel pump just to plug the hole. Fired it up and ran it for about ten minutes but it had a pop. We messed with timing and re stabbed dizzy and it still had the pop. Then pulled the valve covers and found the reason for the pop. The #4 cylinders last rocker was broke off. Checked to see if valve was free and it was so I took a rocker arm assembly off the 4wd which was easy because the top was already apart. All the broken pieces were accounted for. So cleaned everything up and re-installed rocker arm and valve covers. Running motor. Dumped oil and put new oil in. The intake will have to come off to fix an oil leak when I pull the two motors. This leads me to my first question. I havent really looked at the oil pans yet but from what I have read I think I have to change oil pumps and oil pans for this engine to go into the 4wd. Does this sound correct?
#7
I first wanted to see if I was going to have a running engine. I needed a lot of parts to see if I could make the f350 motor run. From my 70' f250 at home, I brought some original parts that I had laying around. I brought the radiator, distributor, plug wires, and carburetor. Off the 4wd I robbed the starter, starter solenoid, ground cable, alternator and brackets, water pump, radiator hoses, oil filter housing, and fuel pump. I think that is everything. To start with we pulled the plugs and poured some tranny fluid down the holes and the motor would already turn freely. I put on the oil filter housing with a filter which wouldnt go on. It was hitting the cross member. I hammered on it a little til I could get it on. Then installed the starter and starter solenoid. Then put on the carb, found #1 tdc, and stabbed the dizzy. We rigged up a battery, and fuel that was gravity fed from a can on the roof, put in the plugs and hooked up wires so we could start it. We jumped it and it started immediately, so we let it run maybe 30 seconds and killed it. Since it started, we rigged in the radiator with the hoses, alternator, put on the belt, and the fuel pump just to plug the hole. Fired it up and ran it for about ten minutes but it had a pop. We messed with timing and re stabbed dizzy and it still had the pop. Then pulled the valve covers and found the reason for the pop. The #4 cylinders last rocker was broke off. Checked to see if valve was free and it was so I took a rocker arm assembly off the 4wd which was easy because the top was already apart. All the broken pieces were accounted for. So cleaned everything up and re-installed rocker arm and valve covers. Running motor. Dumped oil and put new oil in. The intake will have to come off to fix an oil leak when I pull the two motors.
This leads me to my first question. I haven't really looked at the oil pans yet, but from what I have read I think I have to change oil pump and oil pans for this engine to go into the 4WD
This leads me to my first question. I haven't really looked at the oil pans yet, but from what I have read I think I have to change oil pump and oil pans for this engine to go into the 4WD
FE oil pump same: 2WD/4WD & Passenger Cars (except 428 CJ & S/CJ).
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#8
#9
Thanks for the info ND. I will swap the bottom of the two motors out next weekend. Im going to put them both on engine stands and get everything straightened out. I have to pul the intake to fix an oil leak anyways, so new gasket kit. As for the seats, I plan on using them in the truck. Maybe not until I pull the in cab tank but havent decided yet.
#10
#11
Got a little work done on the trucks yesterday. I got both engines disconnected from trannys, exhaust, motor mounts and whatever else so they could be pulled. The keeper went straight to an engine stand. The other hung from the backhoe for a while to remove the bellhousing, clutch, and flywheel. After pulling both motors, I have found no visual differences between the 4wd and 2wd oil pans and dipstick placement. I'll throw some picks up of the progress.
#14